Tag: living simply

  • Vienna Waits For Y’all

    Vienna Waits For Y’all

    Posted December 19, 2025 – Narrated by Jim
    To listen to the podcast, click the play button

    Slow down, you crazy child
    And take the phone off the hook
    and disappear for a while.
    It’s alright,
    you can afford to miss a day or two,
    When will you realize
    Vienna waits for you.

    Happy Holidays to all! ✨and thank you for waiting for us.

    We’ve just returned from a three month European‑style sabbatical. We feel rested, restored, and just smug enough to pretend this was all part of a carefully executed life plan. In truth, our “surprise” 50th Wedding Anniversary trip to Vienna, Austria was launched by Beauty & The Beast, a bathroom faucet, and Billy Joel.

    Votivkirche (Votive Church)
    The Votivkirche (Votive Church)

    Aging in Places in the great state of Delight, still suits us fine. Beauty & The Beast continue to hold us in suspense – if not in youth.

    Someday, they say, self-healing Airstream trailers and Ram Trucks will roam the highways. Imagine that. RVers will gather round the campfire pressing the old folks to tell stories about how repairs were once accomplished with 60% ingenuity, 30% profanity, and 10% Gorilla Tape. 🤪

    Monument Against War and Fascism in ‎⁨Helmut-Zilk-Platz
    Monument Against War and Fascism in ‎⁨Helmut-Zilk-Platz⁩

    Beauty, the Beast and the Fix-It List

    I like tech – new tech, old tech – especially when it expands boundaries. Ten years ago, a used trailer and truck came into our lives and rewired our retirement expectations, enhancing our recreational and housing options.

    1950's Airstream event wine cart at the University of Vienna
    1950’s Airstream event wine cart at the University of Vienna

    Because they were new to us, we expected a great deal from Beauty & The Beast75,000 miles in ten years including an overland journey to Alaska, from San Diego, and back. We don’t just fix things, we’re proactive, which means the–

    is never finished, only temporarily ignored.

    For instance, last December, while wintering at Sun Outdoors San Diego Bay, a ten-minute DIY plumbing job on the bathroom faucet triggered a full bathroom remodel. This is how these things work.

    Power at the Sea by Rudolf Weyr, at the Hofburg Palace, in Michaelerplatz
    Power at the Sea by Rudolf Weyr, at the Hofburg Palace, in Michaelerplatz

    Shopping for plumbing supplies and squeezing my hands and fingers into sharp, tiny crevices is not my preferred resort activity. Fortunately, in the midst of the grueling month-long project, a winter storm blew in blessing us with a three-day cease-fire to take naps, make soup and groove on oldies.

    Billy Joel and The Look

    One stormy afternoon while playing Five Crowns, Billy Joel crooned Vienna through the Bose. Carmen tenderly took my hand and flashed “the look” eyebrow arched, sideways smile, the one that makes me wonder if she’s Elvis’ secret love child. This look has ended arguments, redirected life plans, and once caused me to apologize for something I hadn’t done yet.


    No more bloody knuckles for you. Let’s do something crazy for our 50th wedding anniversary. In early Spring, we’ll limp slowly up the coast to Vinnie’s. His new place has secure Airstream storage. Then I grab our backpacks and call Uber, while you hand over the keys and that *gosh-darned Fix-It list. Thirty minutes later we’re at the Sacramento airport heading toward our plane. Vinnie and Vienna! Whadda ya say?
    *paraphrased for family consumption

    She’d clearly been rehearsing this.

    When your beloved wife, for five decades, deploys the look, you give all the – okay, truth be told, I was sold the moment she said, “give the (ahem) To-Do-List to Vinnie.”

    The ceiling of the Austrian National Library
    The ceiling of the Austrian National Library

    “Vienna? You mean Vienna Vienna, in Austria? Whoa! Wow. Wh-where will we stay?”

    “I take that to mean, ‘it’s a go,’” she said, as she scrolled her iPhone, “No worries, I’ve been texting property owners.”

    vienna traffic lights
    Couples traffic lights make everyone glow

    Hey, 50 years of marriage is a big deal.

    A few days after our wedding in July 1975 – Animated by Artificial Intelligence (Ai)

    In our youth, most couples celebrating their 50th anniversary looked like they’d been temporarily released from nursing care for the event.

    Hans Burgkmair and his wife Anna by Lukas Furtenagel
    Hans Burgkmair and his wife Anna by Lukas Furtenagel, 1529 – on display at the Kunsthistorisches Museum

    Life has been good to us. We should celebrate.

    Beware of Luxury by Jan Steen
    Beware of Luxury by Jan Steen, 1663 – on display at the Kunsthistorisches Museum

    Also, our team, Beauty & The Beast, needed a break from us and a thorough professional grooming and shoeing.

    Vinnier's airstream repair
    Traveling Rick Steve’s style with 20 lb carry-on backpacks. We left Beauty & The Beast at Vinnie’s (Airstream repair) June 30, 2025

    Brief Apartment Anxiety

    The only cringey part of the plan concerned apartment life. Would we adapt? Could we?

    For the past ten years, we’ve treasured the freedom to wake up to crashing Pacific waves and fall to sleep the same night to a frog serenade in a desert oasis. Why? Compromise. I’m a coastal guy and Carmen prefers desert solitude. Beauty & The Beast balances the extremes.

    Stone heraldic lion statue at the entrance to the Swiss Gate, Hofburg Palace
    Stone heraldic lion statue at the entrance to the Swiss Gate, Hofburg Palace

    Sure, mobility is more challenging than living in a house, but what some call heavy lifting–

    vienna

    is, to us, uplifting – like a pinch of shaved salt sprinkled atop a Sacher torte – harsh, gritty, complex, unexpected, but in a good way. Apartments, on the other hand, sound boring.

    Sacher torte cafe central

    Surprise! We took to our historic award-winning rental apartment in Landstraße as if guided by evolutionary instinct. Ooohing and Ahhhing over every mundane feature.

    A home that became a destination

    The apartment was more than a place to recover from jet-lag. It became a base of operations for summer mornings at the pool–

    Gänsehäufel⁩
    Our stainless steel lap pool at ‎⁨Gänsehäufel⁩

    and afternoon naps before opera and philharmonic performances.

    Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra
    Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra
    volksoper carmen
    Carmen at the opera, Carmen – yep, her mom named her after an opera poster in Memphis

    It wasn’t merely a place to put up our feet after museum days–

    Furniture Museum Vienna
    Furniture Museum Vienna

    and soak them after long walks over cobblestone streets.

    vienna
    vienna

    With a breathtaking view of the Danube Canal (Donaukanal)–

    Danube Canal
    Our condo is circled in red

    the apartment became a destination in itself.

    vienna
    This killer view is brought to you by tilt-and-turn transom windows and exterior mechanized aluminum rolling shutters – We’ve always wondered why these features have not captured more interest in the US.

    With the characteristic high ceilings–

    vienna

    herringbone floors–

    vienna

    live plants–

    vienna

    beautifully appointed bathroom with a washer/spinner–

    vienna

    a sleek modern fitted kitchen and my new best bro– a Nespresso coffee machine!

    We wanted for nothing.

    nespresso machine

    So, after ten years of slow-rolling in America, we ran off to Europe for three amazing months.

    Vienna Film Festival
    Vienna Film Festival

    Learning Vienna

    We wanted to understand why Vienna is considered the most livable city in the EU. Armed with little more than “Grüß Gott“, and “Auf Wiedersehen,” we set out to blend in.

    Bierteufl (Brewery)
    Bierteufl (Brewery)
    Eissalon Trento Ice Cream Parlor
    Eissalon Trento Ice Cream Parlor
    Vienna Opera Opening Season Outdoor Concert
    Vienna Opera Opening Season Outdoor Concert
    Billa Plus grocery store
    Our local Billa Plus grocery store
    vienna
    Around the corner from our condo

    What did we learn? First, that this old city has layers.

    Roman ruins dating back some 2,000 years on display in Michaelerplatz
    Roman ruins dating back some 2,000 years on display in Michaelerplatz

    There must be fifty Viennas in Vienna. We focused on our favorites.

    Donau City looking over the Kaiserwasser
    View of Donau City looking over the Kaiserwasser

    There’s daytime Vienna–

    St. Francis of Assisi Church, also known as the Emperor's Jubilee Church
    St. Francis of Assisi Church, also known as the Emperor’s Jubilee Church

    and nighttime Vienna.

    St. Francis of Assisi Church, also known as the Emperor's Jubilee Church

    Outside Vienna–

    Vienna City Hall Rathaus
    Vienna City Hall “Rathaus

    and Inside Vienna.

    vienna ‎⁨Church of the Jesuits
    ‎⁨Church of the Jesuits⁩

    Deadly serious don’t-mess-with-me Vienna–

    Heracles outside the Hofburg
    Heracles outside the Hofburg

    and “don’t-worry-be-happy” Vienna.

    Mosaic by the Christian Ludwig Attersee
    Mosaic by the Christian Ludwig Attersee

    And, most famously, there is savory Vienna–

    vienna Frankfurter
    bitzinger Würstelstand
    The famous Bitzinger Würstelstand
    Wiener Schnitzel at Gasthaus Sofienwirt 
    Wiener Schnitzel at Gasthaus Sofienwirt 

    and sweet Vienna.

    Cafe Central’s dessert counter
    Apple strudel with a splash of whipped cream at the Film Festival

    Poor us. So many Viennas and so little time! It was exhausting. Deliciously, exhausting.

     The Roman goddess Angerona at the Schönbrunn Palace

    A culture of care

    This ambitious hard-working city–

    runs on a meticulously tight schedule–

    Allegory of Vanity (also known as The Gentleman’s Dream or Vanitas) by Antonio de Pereda
    The Anker Clock (built 1911 – 1914) was created by Franz Matsch
    Rathaus (Vienna City Hall)

    because if it doesn’t, there’s hell to pay.

    Hercules’ ninth labor, commonly called ‘Hercules and Hippolyta,’ but actually he is holding Oeolyca not Hippolyta.
    Hercules wrestling Antaeus

    So, we got crackin’!

    ‎⁨Kunsthistorisches Museum

    Vienna is a cultural melting pot of two-million souls. Centuries of migration and housing shortages have driven innovative development serving generations of families with quality homes in functional, desirable neighborhoods.

    Seestadt Aspern urban development project

    This mecca of accessible housing is a cultural response that values housing as a human right. Like everything in Austria, public housing is constructed to last.

    Karl Marx Hof – is one of the longest single residential buildings in the world

    We rarely strayed from our usual Living In Beauty monthly budget while losing ourselves in the dense forest of old-growth architecture.

    Belvedere Palace
    Church of the Minorites (Minoritenkirche)
    Kaiserliche Schatzkammer Wien (Imperial Treasury of Vienna)
    Saint Stephen’s Cathedral

    Our Landstraße Zinshaus is visual poetry. Layered like a sonnet, it spirals from its underworld basement up to the heavens in measured stanzas, rhymed and metered, around a shared courtyard – a classic of the Wilhelminian era. We barely needed air-conditioning. Shades closed, windows opened on both sides, the building breathed.

    A view of our windows from the Danube Canal

    Our neighborhood in the 3rd District has served as a trading village since the 12th century.

    That’s me, waving at Carmen from the window across the canal

    Work below/live above mixed‑use buildings rise like stacked wedding cakes, figures full of promise perched on top

    What better place and occasion to enjoy cake?

    Complimentary dessert at Therme Wien Hot Springs

    Most mornings we celebrated the birthplace of the croissant.

    Ströcks ‎⁨at Gänsehäufel⁩
    Helmut Sachers Wiener Kaffeehaus

    From Highways to Haydn

    Cake is easily accessed within fifteen minutes on the U-Bahn, trolley or bus. A monthly transit pass cost croissant crumbs compared to renting a car – if you can find a parking place.

    Public transport is punctual and civilized–

    Sidewalks are thoughtfully divided for pedestrians and cyclists.

    The roads are parceled to accommodate safe passage for pedestrians, buses, horse-drawn carriages, and trolleys.

    At first, it’s discombobulating, but within half a week, it makes perfect sense.

    We never rented a car or summoned Uber.

    The U-Bahn, trolleys and buses are clean and tidy. They even smell nice. We didn’t ask how. We simply accepted the miracle.

    That’s how it works when women govern.

    Empress Elisabeth of Austria and Queen of Hungary from her marriage to Franz Joseph I on 24 April 1854 until her assassination in 1898. Popularly known as Sissi
    Maria Theresa (Holy Roman Empress of the Habsburg monarchy ruled from 1740 until her death in 1780) – by Martin van Meytens
    A royal bride’s wedding armor
    Maria Christina, Duchess of Teschen was the fourth daughter and fifth child of Maria Theresa and Francis I. She was Governor of the Austrian Netherlands from 1781 until 1793. Portrait by Martin van Meytens, 1765 – on display at the at Schönbrunn Palace

    The people get to have nice things–

    The fountain in front of the Vienna Parliament is the Pallas Athene Fountain, featuring a statue of Athena, the goddess of wisdom. By Carl Kundmann and completed between 1893 and 1902

    such as pristine Alpine water on tap.

    Vienna sources water from two high spring pipelines that transport water from the pristine Alpine regions of Lower Austria and Styria. This water travels distances of up to 180 kilometers and reaches the city without the need for pumps, relying on gravity instead.
    The water is known for its high quality and is often compared to mineral water in taste and quality.
    Public fountains are everywhere and it is safe and free source to fill water bottles.

    When women rule, justice is served–

    Vienna Film Festival – The Magic Flute by Mozart

    the prices of luxury items fall and chandeliers go up–

    chocolate, is always on the menu

    horses wear lingerie–

    The Conversion of Saint Paul by the Italian artist Parmigianino on display at Kunsthistorisches Museum

    the flag of The Venus is flown high and proud–

    Venus of Willendorf – Created between 24,000 – 22,000 B.C.E. Natural History Museum, Vienna.

    and engaging in psychotherapy is a sign of a normal healthy human being.

    Vienna has a green thumb, too. Live mosses cover bus station awnings.

    Bees, butterflies, birds–

    and lavender are cultivated.

    High, and low–

    The Hundertwasser House
    ‎⁨Haus des Meeres

    every available niche in this metropolis is dedicated to the natural world.

    Danube Canal
    Stadt Park
    Near The Prater
    Der Wienfluss (The Vienna River) flows through the center of the city.

    Summer gardens are furnished with tables where food and beverage are served throughout the fair months.

    Weinhof Zimmermann

    This Culture of Care isn’t new to Vienna and the preservation of these ancient values continue from special cushioned seats for pregnant women on transit, to the distribution of free outerwear for seniors in Autumn – subtle reminders that aging is expected, planned for, and not treated like a design flaw.

    Vienna guided us gently through the after-effects of our brutal 48-hour flight to Austria. Delays, re-routing and over-crowded flights pushed us nearly to the brink.

    Carmen says this statue explains how she felt on the flight on display at Kunsthistorisches Museum
    And by the time we arrived, my head ached like … Naturhistorisches Museum Wien (Vienna Natural History Museum)

    We needed a hero.

    Jousting armor of Archduke Siegmund of Tyrool (1483) – Kunsthistorisches Museum

    Our quiet neighborhood patched us up with walks along the canal–

    and rides on the bike trail. Rental bikes are on the corner.

    Peaceful strolls to Rochusmarkt for pharmaceuticals and fresh fruit and veggies put us right.

    Everything was nearby

    The Prater, just across the canal–

    Deep Fried Pig Knuckles are served by the thousands every weekend at Schweizerhaus at the Prater

    and quintessential restaurants and cafes.

    Cafe Benedikt is a pleasant walk from our apartment.
    Our first real Eggs Benedict at Cafe Benedikt
    Bui Vien Street – about a 3 minute walk from our apartment
    Bún Gà Nướng at Bui Vien Street
    Grilled lamb and veggies and a Bento Box at Shisoya Noodle
    Helmut Sachers Wiener Kaffeehaus
    The Golden Harp – best Halloumi Burger e-v-e-r!
    Gnocci at Bella Compagnia – top notch food and service
    Potato Cabbage Strudel at Salm Brau, true comfort food
    Lobster tail at Nordsee
    Shakshouka at Rochus – Carmen’s favorite meal for breakfast, lunch or supper.
    Traditional Vienna breakfast at Café Landtmann
    Cafe Mozart
    Thai street food Gleis//Garten
    Cafe Sperl
    Chicken Cordon Bleu – Wieden Brau 
    Caprese – Ombra Italian cafe
    Grilled cauliflower with white button mushrooms, ravioli, pistachio pesto, sesame,
    braised tomatoes and microgreens at Cafe Central
    The Brass Monkey Wiener Kaffeehaus
    Die Caferiere: Most loved grilled cheese sandwich in Vienna – a must-try!
    World traveler and high school classmate, Kathy Anderson, joined us for a relaxed Viennese lunch at Cafe Central

    We saved museums till after the close of tourist season.

    ‎⁨Kunsthistorisches Museum

    With lower crowds, Carmen could enjoy window shopping–

    while I hung out in the park.

    Stadt Park
    ‎⁨Belvedere Schlossgarten⁩
    ‎⁨Burggarten⁩

    Not all of the gardens are ornamental. We found many public gardens for fruits, nuts and veggies and bee hives.

    sonnwendviertel Vienna

    Outdoor public gyms furnished with fitness equipment, ping pong tables and basketball courts seemed to be everywhere.

    vienna park
    A park 5 minutes from our condo

    The Viennese are healthy people. It’s a walking city and we covered several miles a day. We learned to stop occasionally and look up. There’s always something cool going on up there.

    vienna
    vienna

    What Vienna taught us

    Vienna offers a different approach to life. It taught us that the long, winding road is a wonderful way to explore the world, but so is a bench in the village square with a violinist playing in the cool shadows nearby.

    vienna violin

    And “home” can be a favorite neighborhood restaurant where everyone knows your name.

    Bella Compagnia vienna
    Bella Compagnia – Our favorite restaurant – and only a 5 minute walk from our condo

    A lasting marriage, we learned, is like an expansive window view that never grows old – even if you’ve seen it every day for fifty years.

    vienna View from our apartment window overlooking the Danube canal
    View from our apartment window overlooking the Danube canal

    Goodbye Vienna

    Summer days at the pool–

    and concerts at night made the months fly by.

    Wienliebe Festival - Rathaus
    Wienliebe Festival – Rathaus
    Wienliebe Festival - Rathaus
    Wienliebe Festival – Rathaus
    Volksoper (The People's Opera)
    Volksoper (The People’s Opera)
    The Music of Vienna

    As October winds arrived and temperatures dropped–

    vienna

    we soaked in a world-famous hot springs–

    Therme Wien Vienna
    Therme Wien
    Therme Wien Vienna
    Therme Wien Vienna
    The RELAX package includes cake of course.

    took a day-trip to Bratislava, Slovakia–

    In front of Michael's Gate
    In front of Michael’s Gate
    Bratislava, Slovakia
    svatopluk statue in front of Bratislava castle
    Svatopluk statue in front of Bratislava castle
    Slovak National Uprising Memorial by Ján Kulich
    Čumil, Man at Work by Viktor Hulík
    Čumil, Man at Work by Viktor Hulík
    Schöne Náci statue
    Schöne Náci, a famous figure in Bratislava, was an inseparable part of the capital’s promenade and cafés in the first half of the 20th century. Created by Juraj Meliš

    and imagined how lovely the city must be all a-sparkle with frost and snow.

    Stock photo of Rathaus (Vienna City Hall) Winter

    We consoled ourselves at favorite haunts, where cross-cultural diplomacy is only a brewery away. Nothing captures global brotherhood better than an American in Austria, drinking a Hungarian beer, crafted by a Colombian and poured by a Mexican in a Vienna taproom. Proof that world peace just needs more beer. Prost!

    Mama Kraft (Brewery) vienna
    Mama Kraft (Brewery)
    Schweizerhaus (Brewery) Vienna
    Schweizerhaus (Brewery)
    Ottakringer Brewery vienna
    Ottakringer Brewery
    516 brewing company vienna
    1516 Brewing Company
    Ten Fifty Brauhaus (Brewery)
    Ten Fifty Brauhaus (Brewery)
    Bierteufl (Brewery) Vienna
    Bierteufl (Brewery)
    Klastorny Pivovar Monastic Brewery - Bratislava, Slovakia
    Klastorny Pivovar Monastic Brewery – Bratislava, Slovakia
    Medl Brau (Brewery)
    Medl Brau (Brewery)
    Vienna Kaiser Wiesn (Vienna's Oktoberfest)
    Wienen Brau (Brewery)
    Vienna Kaiser Wiesn (Vienna's Oktoberfest)
    Vienna Kaiser Wiesn (Vienna’s Oktoberfest)
    Beaver Brewing Company vienna
    Beaver Brewing Company
    7 Stern Brau Vienna
    7 Stern Brau
    Indoor park in an old train depot Vienna Craft Beer Festival
    Salm Brau (Brewery) vienna
    Salm Brau (Brewery)

    We celebrated our final night with a candlelit dinner at 360° Ocean Sky with a birds-eye view of the city.

    vinnie nightime city scape
    Goodbye, Vienna. Thanks for the memories 🥹

    The flight back to the Airstream in Sacramento was flawless. 😅

    Beauty glowed when we retrieved her from Vinnie’s all freshened up with new awnings, ceiling fans, a toilet/bidet and, miracles of miracles, a spotless To-Do list. Within an hour we were hitched up and rolling.

    vinnie's airstream repair
    October 13, 2025 pickup at Vinnie’s
    vinnie lamica
    The Airstream Meister, Vinnie Lamica

    Fifty years together taught us this: love endures, homes evolve, and the right song – or city – can still change everything.

    Now, doesn’t that take the cake?!

    derr mann Vienna
    Derr Mann

    Seconds, anyone?!

    You can see our exact route on this map.

    *photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) were taken and copyrighted by Living In Beauty.


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