Food, Music and Enlightenment
The Civil Rights Trail Chapters
A seven-part series documenting our journey along the trail.
Chapter Three: Juke Joint Festival – Clarksdale, Mississippi
Chapter Four: Mound Bayou – Mississippi
Chapter Six: Montgomery, Alabama — The Epicenter of the Movement
Posted June 11, 2025 – Narrated by Jim
“Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it.”
This seven-chapter series about our 9-month Civil Rights Trail road trip – an official NPS trail launched in 2017 with more than 100 sites of interest in several dozen locations across the United States – has come to an end.
Why (you may ask) would anyone want to immerse in the long and miserable history of slavery and racial oppression suffered for hundreds of years by millions of US citizens?
For us, there are several reasons – some are personal – but the obvious answer is, it was practical.
These historic sites are near our family and friends.
The second reason, is “pleasure.” The southern region of the US has the best food, music and beaches with the most festivals, cultural events, gardens, nightlife and the most exciting arts scene in the country.
The third, is “preservation of the past.” What better place to archive the most pivotal moments in American history than where it played out?
Patriotism is the fourth reason. The Civil Rights Trail is the “how to” manual for the Constitution and The Bill of Rights. The region’s tourism economy supports important principals every American should know in order to secure freedoms and prevent collapses in the democratic process.
#5: a fuller perspective of U.S. history leading to the Civil Rights era and into the present. Behind the hurly-burly of skirmishes, wars and treaties, the strong steady pulse of the ongoing struggle for human rights is the stuff that makes freedom ring!
#6. We have an RV! From the luxurious to the unconventional, there are many ways to lodge on the newest National Parks Roadtrip, but a self-contained RV adds so much joy and discovery to this once-in-a-lifetime adventure. The developing Civil Rights Trail is a treasure trove of picturesque antebellum farming towns strung like pearls along secondary highways and railways where vintage cities rose from the King Cotton era. Some towns have rebounded better than others with historic preservation efforts, so modern travelers amenities can be few and far between. Go forth any way you like, but with an RV, you will always have the essentials to support bio-breaks and side trips.
The Big Surprise!
Until our Civil Rights Trail Series began, our subscriber numbers always increased with every post. The big shocker is hundreds of followers canceled their Living in Beauty subscription during this series! Perplexing? Yes. Humbling? Yes. Fortunately, you are still here and we value your interest in our journey all the more.
The 50’s and 60’s
Most here will agree that 1955 to 1965 was the most profound decade in 20th Century America.
It unfolded before our eyes because “televisions” were the new centerpiece of our living rooms. Love it or hate it, the “idiot box,” proved that most Americans respond empathetically when they see injustice.
Carmen and I encountered disturbing revelations and uncomfortable truths on every stop along The Civil Rights Trail. Yet, our faith in America is renewed! That’s because the tour guides and docents are knowledgeable professionals, unwavering patriots, and – by necessity – counselors. History can be emotional, compassionate and triggering. Pack tissues.
Publicly confronting the truth about our history is the first step towards recovery and reconciliation.
Till’s murder scene began the healing process. From there we followed the roots of America’s music from Clarksdale to Helena to New Orleans. We drove through Delta cotton fields to the fascinating city of Mound Bayou – an all Black refuge in Mississippi – through Montgomery and Nashville to learn more about famous southerners who called out injustice.
“If it is necessary, every Negro in the state will be lynched; it will be done to maintain white supremacy.”
Here are the last places we visited on The Civil Rights Trail.
Greensboro, North Carolina
For two weeks we camped at the Hagan Stone Park Campground near lovely Greensboro, North Carolina.
Woolworth Sit-in
From there we took day-trips to the International Civil Rights Center and Museum –
where, in February 1960, four Black students occupied the Whites-only Woolworth lunch counter.
Denied service, the four young men remained seated. Every day they and their classmates peacefully occupied those counter seats where they were denied service for months.
By the end of March 1960, 55 cities in 13 states had lunch counter ‘sit-ins’ in progress. Within 3 months, dining rooms across the South slowly integrated.
Atlanta, Georgia
For 14 days we camped beside the lake at Stone Mountain Park, 30-minutes from downtown Atlanta.
Stone Mountain
Stone Mountain’s showpiece – a massive confederate memorial carving – opened to the public in 1972.
The Stone Mountain Memorial Association strains against ingrained racism to ‘neutralize’ the controversy. In Autumn 2025, the Association will open an $11 million “Truth Telling” center featuring exhibits to peel the peach (so to speak) and display “Georgia (history)… warts and all.” To explain the scale of the carving, we captured a few moments of the light-show – a summer weekend attraction – attended by thousands.
The King Center
Meanwhile, in downtown Atlanta, The King Center keeps Martin Luther King, Jr.’s legacy alive.
The King Center applies Dr. King’s nonviolent philosophy and methodology into peaceful social action.
Jimmy Carter Library and Museum
During his tenure as a Georgia state senator (1963-1967), Jimmy Carter focused on repealing undemocratic laws crafted to diminish the Black vote. As governor in 1970, he called for the end of segregation.
As president, Carter appointed more nonwhites and women to top government positions than all of his predecessors combined. He authorized observance of King’s birthday, increased funding for historically Black colleges, and promoted fair housing and banking policies. The Carter Center continues a worldwide human rights agenda.
“The civil rights movement isn’t just history. It remains a pressing issue in the 21st century.”
Philadelphia, Mississippi
While camping in my father-in-law’s driveway, we visited Philadelphia, Mississippi – less than a 30-minute drive.
There, on June 21, 1964, three voting rights activists were brutally murdered – James Chaney, Andrew Goodman, and Michael Schwerner. The murders shocked the nation. The details are dramatized in the film “Mississippi Burning,”
We visited four sites that, together, tell the heroism of their last few hours.
The murders sparked national outrage and boosted public support for the Civil Rights Act of 1964.
Jackson, Mississippi
Near Jackson, Mississippi, we stayed at lovely Timberlake Campground, a recreational reservoir.
Evers National Monument
From there we visited Civil Rights activist and hero, Medgar Evers‘ house – Husband, father of three, and a three-times awarded army soldier who participated in the June 1944 landing at Normandy – Evers was gunned down in his driveway on June 12, 1963.
The house, donated by his wife, Myrlie, who continued Medgar’s work, is now a National Monument.
Mississippi Civil Rights Museum
The Mississippi Civil Rights Museum promotes racial justice worldwide with an illustrated timeline documenting humanitarian efforts to end the Transatlantic Slave Trade from the moment it began.
The museum includes biographies of Mississippians in the struggle for equality and justice.
Canton Freedom House Civil Rights Museum
About 30 minutes north of Jackson, The Canton Freedom House served as headquarters for the Congress of Racial Equality. The house, bombed in 1964, is where Martin Luther King Jr. organized protests.
The Canton Freedom House is the last standing Freedom House in Mississippi. It preserves a vast trove of documentation citing historic figures, achievements, and moments of significance.
Memphis, Tennessee
Across the bridge from downtown Memphis, Tom Sawyer RV Park provided a quiet refuge on the Mighty Mississippi River.
Lorraine Motel and National Civil Rights Museum
On April 4, 1968, Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., was assassinated at the Lorraine Motel in downtown Memphis.
Museum visitors are invited to stand near the terrace where Martin Luther King was fatally shot.
Of all the historic places we visited, it was profoundly moving to be within a few feet from the location where Martin Luther King, Jr. breathed his last, just hours after this speech the night before, “I may not get there with you … I’m happy tonight, I’m not worried about anything!” It struck me how vulnerable democracy is without justice.
Like anybody, I would like to live a long life; longevity has its place. But I’m not concerned about that now. I just want to do God’s will. And He’s allowed me to go up to the mountain. And I’ve looked over. And I’ve seen the Promised Land! I may not get there with you, but I want you to know tonight, that we, as a people, will get to the Promised Land! So I’m happy tonight, I’m not worried about anything! I’m not fearing any man! Mine eyes have seen the glory of the coming of the Lord!
Beale Street
In the early 1900’s, Beale Street‘s restaurants, taverns and shops were mostly Black-owned.
In the 1920s, folks came here to put on the dog and promenade to dinner clubs and juke joints where rising young musicians such as Louis Armstrong, Muddy Waters, Albert King, Memphis Minnie, B. B. King, Rufus Thomas, and Rosco Gordon honed their styles for the ages.
On December 15, 1977, Beale Street was officially declared the “Home of the Blues” by an act of Congress. Every visit to Memphis should be consecrated with a nighttime visit to this historic hot spot.
Nashville, Tennessee
We camped in two places near Nashville: Cedar Creek Campground in Mt. Juliet, about 20 miles from downtown…
and Two Rivers Campground, right in the middle of town.
“I came to Nashville not to bring inspiration, but to gain inspiration from the great movement that has taken place in this community.”
Civil Rights Room at the Nashville Public Library
The Civil Rights Room captures Nashville’s early involvement in The Movement, sparking a seminal moment– to accept nonviolent solutions to racial segregation within the city which spread across the South.
Grand Ole Opry
Nashville week included an evening at the Grand Ole Opry.
Since the 1920’s, The Opry has showcased country, bluegrass, Americana, folk, and gospel music.
The Opry is the longest-running live-radio broadcast in the U.S. We saw seven of the music industry’s top musicians in one evening.
This year, The Opry is celebrating its 100th year!
Broadway Street
Even on an off-night, Broadway Street – Nashville’s busy historic honkytonk nightspot – is a hoot!
Birmingham, Alabama
With only two nights in Birmingham, we dry camped at a Cracker Barrel parking lot in Trussville …
and the following night on the manicured lawn of Siluria Brewing Company in Alabaster, a Harvest Host location.
Birmingham Civil Rights Institute
The Birmingham Civil Rights Institute explains the city’s struggle to achieve racial peace.
Birmingham Freedom Riders Bus Attack
The May 14, 1961 Birmingham bus attack was a fifteen minute frenzy of mob violence against the Freedom Riders peaceful protest against racial segregation. The attack was carried out by members of the Ku Klux Klan and the National States’ Rights Party in coordination with the Birmingham Police Department.
Birmingham Children’s Crusade
The Birmingham Children’s Crusade started with a 1,000-student march on May 2, 1963. Most were teenagers, but some were as young as six years old. The police arrested and imprisoned more than 600 children.
The following day, with the jails full and hundreds more children marching in peaceful protest, the police resorted to nightsticks, dogs, and high-powered fire hoses.
16th Street Baptist Church
On September 15, 1963, four local KKK terrorists planted explosives beneath an interior staircase in the 16th Street Baptist Church.
The Sunday morning explosion killed four girls and injured 22 worshipers.
Fourteen years later, in 1977, one of the bombers was sentenced to life in prison. Two more domestic terrorists received life sentences in 2000, 37 years after the bombing. The fourth died in 1994 before sentencing. Justice of a kind? or justice denied? We gave that a lot of thought as we strolled through –
Kelly Ingram Park
Across the street from the church and the Civil Rights Institute, a grouping of sculptures at Kelly Ingram Park memorialize the children’s lives lost to racist ideology.
The Birmingham violence raised a nationwide public outcry, hastening integration in, what was at the time, America’s most segregated city.
Birmingham Jail
On April 12, 1963, Martin Luther King Jr. was arrested, jailed and placed in solitary confinement. While incarcerated, King wrote his famous “Letter from Birmingham Jail.”
The confluence of the Birmingham protests and Martin Luther King, Jr’s inspired letter shifted public opinion against segregation (if not full integration), convincing John F. Kennedy to support federal civil rights legislation.
Cycling
The Deep South is beautiful. On our Qualisports Dolphin eBikes, we cycled the modern, fully developed bike trails along the river and into the countryside.
Food
No one leaves hungry!
Breweries
Micro breweries helped us to wash down all that good cookin’.
Conclusion
So, back to the question. Why take the road less traveled into the nitty-gritty underbelly of American history that most folks would prefer to forget? Because we want Living in Beauty to make a difference in our lives, and for our lives to make a difference to the world, and because Martin Luther King Jr. said:
“Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere.”
You can see our exact route on this map.
*photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) were taken and copyrighted by Living In Beauty.
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