Posted August 19, 2020 – Narrated by Carmen
“If I had a day that I could give you
I’d give to you a day just like today.
If I had a song that I could sing for you
I’d sing a song to make you feel this way.”– John Denver
Under watchful Aspen-eyes we packed up and drove away from the cool columbine beauty of Steamboat Springs, Colorado. The temperature rose 30 degrees as we headed south, about 125 miles. We stopped in Gypsum on the Eagle River and spent the night at Stoneyard, a unique distillery.
This was a good place to organize the pantry after the huge Costco haul we made a couple of hours earlier.
While passing through the Eagle-Aspen area we spotted a brand new Costco off the highway, near the airport. The first time in months that we’d seen corporate shopping. We screeched to a halt and stocked up on provisions for our upcoming entertainment plans.
For the next three days, we would have neighbors! Our Airstreaming friends, Ronnie and Joe Harris were joining us at Crawford State Park.
Interfacing with friends – even friends we adore – had me tethered between feelings of excitement and dread.
Six months without extensive contact with anyone other than Jim and Pico made me feel a bit skittish about my conversation and entertainment skills.
Seems, I’m thriving on this isolation thing. Social distancing has provided a windfall of time to write, exercise, take pictures, and to practice my experimental style of home cooking.
I’ve also gained a sense that, if necessary, I could travel indefinitely in semi-quarantine. Dodging microorganisms in our shiny escape pod may be an addiction. But, I fear this ongoing pandemic has made me socially awkward. But, maybe I’ve always been a bit … off.
Thank goodness for Jim whose glittering charisma lights up the room. Well, not a room – not these days – but you know what I mean. So, for very different reasons, Jim and I both needed some normal time with friends who shared the same concerns we have about the virus and were willing to visit while adhering to the new rules.
Stoneyard Distillery – Gypsum, Colorado – Elevation: 6,300′
Speaking of this strange new world we’re living in, how does beet moonshine grab ya? When we spent the night at Stoneyard Distillery, a very tall masked man with a crazy blue-eyed dog presented us with a flight of fine American beetroot liquor. We hope our friends at Stoneyard are safe from the wild fires this week.
Hey! Beet-liquor is real good. One would be negligent to turn up their nose on the humble beet. It is highly probable that the original Red Velvet Cake was crafted with these crimson subterranean beauties.
After a great night’s sleep, we set out for the beautiful village of Carbondale in the spectacular Roaring Fork Valley on the south bank of the Crystal River where Mount Sopris reigns over all.
We stopped for breakfast at Village Smithy Cafe. The lawn dining area spaced the tables about twenty feet apart. While we were not yet acclimated to the heat – which was in the high 90’s – we still enjoyed the coffee and spicy Mexican brekkie. We walked the long way back to the truck through Carbondale and fell in love with this cheerful valley community.
As we drove south on Highway 133, two identical young bucks – twins perhaps? – crossed the road about a meter in front of us, tongues dangling pitifully, panting for a drink in the river flowing on the opposite side of the highway.
We uttered a prayer of thanks that this was merely a close one and continued our off-the-beaten-path Colorado journey into the North Fork Valley and our headquarters at …
Crawford State Park – Crawford, CO – Elevation: 6,600′
Our first sight of gorgeous, turquoise, Crawford Lake gave us some hope that we could deal with the heat wave hitting this region in Summer 2020.
We spotted Ronnie and Joe’s Airstream Interstate as we pulled up to our campsite.
I stepped out of the truck into a thick billowy breeze that felt like a dozen hot demonic pillows fresh from the dryer pummeling me, head-to-toe – reminded me of all those summer bargain vacations in Palm Springs we took during our child-rearing years. Heat dominated everything. With the walkie-talkies, I guided Jim as he backed into the site and shortly, Ronnie and Joe came over to greet us.
It had been more than two years since we’d last seen this wonderful couple in The Florida Keys but within moments the time gap closed. It’s easy to relax into the company of self-reliant people who know the road, respect its mercies and its dangers, share its wisdom, and draw energy from both the glories and the disasters.
We first met Ronnie and Joe in Ashville, North Carolina in Autumn 2017. Mutual friends, Debbie and Frank DiBona introduced us and we all hit it off.
Francophile Floridians from New York with homes stateside and in Provence, Ronnie and Joe and their two adorable Biewer Terrier companions are perpetual world travelers.
Their whiz-bang Airstream Interstate is their home for at least six months of the year. Three years ago, Joe recruited us to the Wally Byam Airstream Club. They are also members of the European chapter of the club.
As former New York executives, Ronnie and Joe have formidable organization skills.
Three years ago, after a tour of their van, Jim and I saw the light. It took us about two years after we hit the road, but using The Harris Method, we finally downsized our gear by almost half and completely reorganized the rig.
Ronnie – who could double for Helen Mirren – is an excellent cook.
Every night her refreshing homemade Limoncello made the heat much more bearable.
The next day we all embarked on a winery tour.
There are twelve boutique, family owned and operated vineyards in the Paonia-Crawford-Hotchkiss area – and all are very good.
This is rustic, crunchy, organic farm country with artisan everything from fresh local eggs, cheeses and baked goods. Homemade signs along the highway coaxed us down narrow unpaved drives where we could purchase fresh vegetables and fruit from hundreds of local farms and orchards.
So, yeah … there was no need to stock up at Costco.
Ah, well. Live and learn.
On that first day we went to three local tastings …
and Qutori Wines …
Happy Hour and Sunsets
For the remaining two days, Ronnie and Joe took off in their rental car to see the sights and, in the evenings, we convened for Happy Hour, sunset viewing and conversation.
On Day Two, we observed the most impressive atmospheric display any of us had ever seen. At first we thought a wildfire was heading straight for the campground but the air didn’t smell of smoke.
In 1985, John Denver testified before Congress to defend the lyrics of his song, Rocky Mountain High:
“Obviously [some people have never seen] or been to the Rocky Mountains, and never experienced the elation, celebration of life or the joy in living that one feels when he observes something as wondrous as the Perseid meteor shower on a moonless, cloudless night, when there are so many stars that you have a shadow from the starlight, and you are out camping with your friends, your best friends, and introducing them to one of nature’s most spectacular light shows for the first time.”
But breathtaking skies are all part of the average day in The North Fork Valley.
Everywhere, at all times, day and night, the sky could not have been more beautiful than if we were standing at heaven’s portal.
Saying goodbye and on our own
The day Ronnie and Joe said their goodbyes and pulled out, eager to cruise up toward a cooler climate, we had a mind to follow them … but then the heat broke. It rained hard and then the temperature dropped fifteen-to-twenty degrees. We switched off the air-conditioner and for the rest of our time in Crawford, the climate was perfection.
Now, our only problem was limited connectivity … the worst we’ve experienced in the three years since we upgraded to the booster. It’s very frustrating to pay top-dollar for services and to be dead in the water for weeks on end. We had to drive into town just to send a text. The Crawford Public Library – only a mile away – wasn’t much help. Due to COVID-19 they were only open two days a week and – unlike so many other public libraries – the router was turned off when the doors were closed. So, we were reduced to begging for passwords at pubs, cafes and wineries.
Oh well … we made the best of it.
Chrysalis Barrel Aged Beer featured the best sours we’ve ever tasted. We brought a homemade picnic and hung out on their deck catching up on email and letting our family know we were alive. Situated alongside the railroad track, we sipped beer and watched the train go by. God, I love trains. And we both love sour beer. Fabulous pairing for Wifi Hobos.
Next Stop was to stock up on dry beans because who knows when there’ll be another lockdown, or even a potential quarantine. So, we set out toward Delta for Big B’s, a produce stand Ronnie and Joe discovered on one of their drives.
For the life of me I can’t find a link to this awesome roadside stand – but trust me, Big B’s is right there on the highway just outside Delta. You can’t miss the painted plywood cows.
Endless Endeavor, a stealth winery on Pitkin Mesa just a mile outside Paonia has some of the best reds we’ve tasted. A retired navy captain and his wife run a B&B with alpine views backdropping the vineyard. Endless Endeavor is an ideal place for non-RVers to stay while visiting The North Fork Valley … and they have great bandwidth.
At Capt. Wegner’s suggestion, we stopped by Western Culture Farmstead and Creamery in time to watch the afternoon milking. We made our selections and couldn’t wait to get home … Old World-style wine and silky textured french-style cheese and rustic bread for dinner. Heaven!
I’ve heard winemakers say it takes a lot of beer to make a good wine. Capt. Wegner, our concierge for the day, directed us to Paonia United Brewing Company, a local establishment in an old church building.
Word has it that, at one time, Paonia held the record for the most churches, per capita, of any municipality in North America. If that folklore is true, it is no longer the case. Now, many of the small neighborhood churches on charming tree-lined streets serve as residences, law-offices, breweries, pre-schools and restaurants.
Paddling Crawford lake is such a joy.
Jim knows when I say “my lake,” I’m talking about Crawford Reservoir.
Though this seasonal pool is quite small, it’s visually stunning with blue diamond water surrounded by golden hills studded with emerald green foliage
Sadly, the 2020 Spring Flow was low, and the water was being drawn off at about a foot per day to sustain the farms, orchards and ranches. When it was too difficult and unsafe to put-in we thought about pulling out.
But there was still plenty more local sights to keep us busy for two more days …
Like, hiking Needle Rock …
… and viewing the rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park
And, on our final night, we went to Paonia for a scrumptious dinner a’fresco at The Living Farm Cafe …
And, for dessert, we walked to the corner Ice Cream Shop for a freshly made gluten-free waffle cone and the best gluten-free ice cream on the planet at Ollie’s.
The next morning, we hooked up and headed toward Palisade for our last overnight stay in Colorado. But, on the way, we stopped in Delta, The City of Murals.
We had a great time until something in Jim’s leg snapped when he leapt off a curb. I wrapped his leg and put it on ice and he stayed fairly comfortable as I drove forty miles to Palisade.
When we arrived to Sauvage Spectrum Wines, he managed the short walk to the tasting room where he happily selected a few bottles of exquisite sparkling wine.
That evening, we sat outside in the vineyard, Jim’s foot elevated, and strategized this medical evac situation.
Next morning ended our 48-day tour of back-country Colorado.
Later that morning, I dropped Jim off at the door of Moab Regional Hospital in Moab, Utah where he was diagnosed with a ruptured right achilles tendon. After four hours and excellent care by the robust team of doctors and the top-notch medical staff, Jim walked out with an orthopedic boot and instructions to see an orthopedic surgeon in six weeks.
So, yes, our last full day in Colorado could have gone better, but we’re grateful it wasn’t worse. The last time we had a major traveling injury was August ’98 in Yosemite when – on the first day of our two-week family vacation – Jim fractured his left foot on the Mist Falls Trail. He refused to go home.
He hasn’t changed much over the years. Our next stop that day: Dead Horse Point State Park – sweet digs for taking it easy … to rest, heal and marvel over the canyon views.
Airstream just published an article about Living in Beauty.
If you want to see our exact route, click here.
*photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) were taken and copyrighted by Living In Beauty.
41 thoughts on “Small Towns, Creature Comforts, Great Friends”
Ouch Jim! Hope you’re on the mend soon. PS why do I always read your blog when I’m hungry and have to look at all those wonderful meals. Safe travels!
Hey Lori! We can’t help it. Food and travel go together and our weight proves it. One of these days, we will find a way to diet on the road … Nah. What am I talking about? That’ll never happen 😀
Safe and Happy Eating and Traveling!
Looks awesome. Thx for sharing your adventures. Sending healing vibes.
Thank you, Kathleen. Your well-wishes are so appreciated. Three weeks in and Jim is experiencing a better range of movement and less pain. He is setting up an appointment today with an orthopedic doc in San Diego.
Safe and Happy Travels!
Poor Jim! Hoping for a speedy recovery. Looks like a fabulous time with Joe and Ronnie. Loved seeing this part of Colorado through your eyes and adventures.
Hey Judy! So sorry it has taken me so long to respond – this area of Lake Tahoe has NO cell service, so we are WiFi Hoboing again this morning. Since this post is about great friends we’ve met on the road, you should know that you are missed. We were all talking about you in Crawford and wishing you and Michael were there. We will definitely return to the North Fork Valley again. I could settle down there inside a little cottage in any one of those wonderful communities.
Safe and Happy Travels till we see you again.
Right now there are serious fires in that area. Glenwood Canyon is burning, as is the area around Debecque. I-70 is closed.
Hello Jane! Yes, and we are in a smoky situation here in Lake Tahoe. We would leave, but, one again, the whole world is smoky in NoCal. We return to Cali every year – often, just after Labor Day – and three of the those times, the air quality has been very bad due to fires. We are worried about Pico who is having a dry cough right now … poor little guy.
Be safe out there!
Jim – apparently you’re not a “spring” or a chicken 🤪. Luckily the doctor didn’t say to stay away from beer, wine or cheese on your mend🥳. Heal safely- and keep burning calories somehow 🙏
Hey Kevin – Beer, Wine and Cheese are natures way of saying, “take it easy” – and Jim is following Mother Nature’s orders 😉 … actually, I’m surprised how much mobility he has with the boot. He can’t cover as much territory, so he’s taking more and shorter walks. Your well-wishes and healing advice are much appreciated.
Safe and Happy Travels!
Great story, thanks for sharing! We lived in Crawford for ten years and Palisade for eighteen years. Fabulous area you captured well!! Thank you!
Marc! You are so lucky! We’re very impressed with the area – the scenery, the French-country ambiance, the hand-crafted foods, fresh produce and friendly, relaxed local vibe. We caught wind of the area’s water-war. There were signs posted everywhere: cooperate (fracking and coal) vs. farmers. But I feel certain that will all settle down soon and the more urgent issue of these dry summers will be the ultimate concern. We will definitely return someday – probably in late-Spring when the reservoir is full.
Thank you so much for being with us, Marc!
Safe and Happy Travels,
Wonderful writing and photography! I think you know what you’re doing!
Have you been to The North Fork Valley? If not, you’d love it. I hear the fly-fishing in The Gunnison is awesome.
Safe and Happy Travels!
No, we haven’t but I’m mentally storing your blog post for reference. Coincidentally, I’m re-reading A River Runs Through It which reminds me I am nothing but a simple bait fisherman. But thanks for the idea!
Great post as always. And about the boot: Sooner or later most of us end up with one. I’ve been coast to coast and even to Europe in mine. And clomped around the classroom in it. The one thing I would strongly advise is make sure you find another shoe that is the same height as the boot. Otherwise you’ll blow out your back, too. At least with the visits to the wineries and distilleries, you’ve laid in an excellent supply of painkillers.
Thank you Mary for that thoughtful and expert advice. Jim has adjusted his footwear behavior since reading your post and is finally wearing a more substantial shoe on his left foot. I had given him this advice since the beginning but sometimes it takes a village 😉 Thank you for being a part of this fabulous community!
Safe and Happy Travels
So glad I found this blog! Amazing people, pictures and stories. And wine😍 and yes, above advice is so true about having feet at same height, my back pain and hip pain on healthy side was worse than injured foot. You are living my dream. Happy travels.
Hey Nina! Thank you so much for that great advice. Jim is wearing a higher soled shoe today and I am so relieved that he is listening.
Thank you for living this dream with us. Welcome aboard!
Safe and Happy Travels!
So sorry to hear about Jim’s injury! A year ago I sprained my foot when I twisted it on a curb in Bend, Oregon. I could barely walk. I had to wear a boot for a month or so. It does slow you down and make doing “trailer things” a bit harder. Keep that leg and foot still and elevated when you can Jim. Give it time to heal. Let Carmen drive. As always an enjoyable post and great pictures. Jim’s lamb enchilada looked amazing. We are in Ohio now, waiting for our appointment at Jackson Center. The temp this morning was 52 degrees! Incredible. I went to Costco myself a few days ago. I must confess an addiction to the giant bags of Organic Skinnypop popcorn you can get there. The problem with them while traveling is where the heck to store them? Well, where there is a will there is a way!
Hey Steve! I’m laughing as I picture your popcorn strapped to the top of your truck 😀
Yes, we are going slower … less activity feels good right now. Also, the air-quality up here in Tahoe is bad due to the fires – so, that, with the limitations of the boot we are taking it slow.
I’ve always handled at least half of the driving, and lately even more. But only recently, am I getting a lot of hitching and unhitching experience and handling all of the tank maintenance. I tell Jim that I consider his “down time” to be a great opportunity for an intense training period. Knowing how to handle the “man” jobs and to able to step in whenever necessary – and for Jim to have confidence in my ability and willingness to hitch and unhitch successfully is very empowering for the both of us.
No Foodie should pass up a comprehensive tour of the organic farms and restaurants and wineries in the North Fork Valley – and definitely try that lamb enchilada at The Living Farm Cafe. It is a true farm to table restaurant. And Ollie’s ice cream is a must.
Stay warm there in Ohio. Have you been to the bicycle museum? – Fabulous display – And best wishes for a successful time at The Mothership.
Safe and Happy Travels!
Spent the morning enjoying your blog. Outstanding narrative and photography as usual. Great experience following along on your remarkable adventures. Pandemic or not…..sending hugs.
Hey Mickie! Wonderful to hear from you. Virtual hugs accepted. Thank you so much for being with us. Hopefully, see you soon!
Beautiful photos, lovely words; and I’m praying for your leg, dear Jim!
Thank you so much Dear Eva for your powerful prayers. We are making the best of it – enjoying the rest and relaxation. Jim sends his love.
Safe and Happy Travels to you!
Oh, so sorry to hear. Glad to know you were well taken care of and coming to a home base for further eval and recovery. Lou and I are heading to Kebler Pass and Crested Butte and will journey along your route through Delta and Paonia in a couple of weeks. Thank you as always for sharing joys of the road. Heal well…our thoughts and prayers are with you both.
Hey Alicia and Lou,
Thank you for the well-wishes. We’re in Tahoe, enjoying the cool climate – but the air is very smoky. We’re just biding time until our appointment in Wilton for trailer repairs and upgrades.
Enjoy your journey. Make sure you see the canyon while in the North Fork Valley. Just spectacular!
Safe and Happy Travels!
Oh no!! That’s not cool! Of course, my favorite part is that you guys went to a winery even after suffering what was surely a painful injury. Ha! Priorities!
I recently had to wear one of those boots to treat a sprained ankle. It wasn’t fun, but having spent several months in 2016 struggling to get around on crutches, I was thrilled to learn of this triumph of modern orthopedic medicine. Boots are annoying, but at least you’ll be able to walk. Get better soon!
You have a special skill for making me want to go wherever you write about – the food, the wines, the friends, the cheese, the lakes, all of it. Fabulous!
Hey Laura! Where are you three? We haven’t been on your wonderful blog because we haven’t had a decent cell signal from our rig in … a couple of months. Now that we’re in Cali we will catch up – soon, I hope.
Right now, we’re a bit concerned about Pico and his teeny-tiny lungs in this smoky Lake Tahoe air and we are heading down to Wilton for trailer repairs where it might be even smokier. As always, he has a lot of energy, but at night he has a bit of a dry cough.
As for the North Fork Valley, I think you two would enjoy the lassie-faire French country qualities and the hip, youthful farming community. Maybe we should meet there someday.
Safe and Happy Travels!
Awesome! Thank you!
Thank you for being with us, Mike!
Safe and Happy Travels!
Agreed that social distancing is easy for some of us but glad you were able to meet up with old friends. Best to Jim for a speedy recovery. How far in Advance did you book your stay at Dead Horse Point SP?
We booked about a month in advance and we had to move twice – the space next door. There are two campgrounds – side-by-side – the old one and the new one. We stayed in the new one which is more suitable for rig our size. Dead Horse Point – not to be confused with Dead Horse Ranch in Arizona where we stayed a few months ago – is now one of our favorite destinations. We were there for full moon, and I would recommend being there for dark nights for viewing stars over the canyons.
Enjoy your quiet, isolated covid time there!
Safe and Happy Travels!
These are all fun little towns. Also Cedaredge , where we stayed at Harvest Host apple orchard.
Thank you for the tip about Cedaredge. Now, we have to go back for sure! Yes, we love Harvest Hosts for the pleasant ambiance, quiet nights and a place to overnight after a long drive. What a great organization!
Safe and Happy Travels!
So fun to tag along on your adventures!
Thank you for being with us, Brenda!
Your time in Colorado sure was jam-packed with adventure and fun. After being on the road a while without meeting people, we always worry a bit about our social skills too. We love being on our own, but it is sooo enjoyable to hang out with like-minded people once in a while. Sorry to read about Jim’s foot. I’m sure a glass of wine or beer in the evening helps. I keep wondering how many bottles of wine you stocked up on while visiting those rustic vineyards in Colorado! 🙂
Truth be told, we have a wine cellar. One of the best things about Beauty is she can safely hold a dozen bottles of wine in a temperature-controlled environment. So, yes – if the price is right (as it often is when buying from the vineyard) we stock up by the case.
So let’s meet up sometime!
Will do! I’ll keep in touch. 🙂 Main goal this year is to publish my travel memoir, but we will hit the road again in October. first stop (probably): Colorado. Then, Utah and Arizona.
I always enjoy your posts and blog!! Hope y’all have remained well during COVID!!