3573 days. Still going.

Going Places

Published on December 3, 2021 – Narrated by Carmen
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“Keep your eyes on the stars,
and the stars in your eyes…
See if you can find out what’s over the next hill,
and the next one after that.”

Wally Byam


In late June, at Ohiopyle State Park up in the dreamy Laurel Highlands, Beauty and The Beast worked their Wally Byam magic again transporting us and all of our worldly gear down to Geneva-On-The-Lake, GOTL, up north in a vintage summer resort in Ashtabula County, Ohio.

Lake Erie

The summer of 2019 on Maumee Bay and Put-In-Bay convinced us to adventure more in The Great Lakes region and particularly on gorgeous Lake Erie.

Geneva on the lake
Do not be deceived. Although rare, a sudden, intense change in air pressure can create a tsunami-like seiche. A Lake Erie seiche on May 31, 1942 claimed seven lives.

She’s shallow and temperamental but this wild-child of a lake is a favorite with us. Erie’s reputation for carefree summertime leisure is an American legacy. The long days and tranquil starlit nights hold judgment over tight muscles, strained backs and every manner of toil with all its cruelties. Warm sand consoles aching arches and the tender breeze weighs in with a healing caress. It all feels too good to be true. And it is.

Beneath the mesmerizing confluence of sky on turquoise water, thousands of sunken vessels lie there in ruin. Best to skedaddle in October before lake-effect snow, or there will be hell to pay for the awesome suntan.

Geneva on the lake
Scooped out by glacial ice, Lake Erie is only 4,000 years old. The Great Lakes hold 21 percent of the world’s supply of fresh surface water. Lake Erie, with an average depth of 62 feet is the 4th largest and the shallowest of the five lakes. A fourth of all Great Lakes shipwrecks are because … Erie

Ohio’s 75 State Parks are consistently the nation’s finest for resource management and for thoughtful, functional, and environmentally sound design. Lodging and activities are provided for every taste and budget.

Geneva State Park
Our Electric-only campsite at Geneva State Park

It doesn’t take a geyser to attract tourism. Ohio state parks preserve the natural beauty of eco-sensitive areas while enhancing access and boosting the economy of host communities.

Geneva on the lake
Geneva on the Lake, GOTL, with our Dolphin eBikes.

With few exceptions (such as Gulf State Park in Alabama), no state does Park better than Ohio.

Geneva on the lake
Lake Erie is named for the Native-American people who occupied the south shore before 1658.

Geneva State Park is another Ohio example of the kind of development and resource management other states should emulate as a solution for safe, pandemic-responsive tourism.

Geneva on the lake
About an hour’s drive east of Cleveland, GOTL is one of Ohio’s earliest resorts. In the early 1900s, the scenic location was popular with the Midwest gentry, including John D. Rockefeller, Henry Ford, and Harvey Firestone. 

From the look of the license plates, we were the only Californians there. Apparently, Geneva-on-the-Lake is primarily a weekend summer get-away for Ohioans.

Geneva on the lake
Sturgeon Point. Pioneer fishermen despised sturgeon until the 1900’s when the public developed an appetite for them. Soon thereafter, Lake Erie was overfished and the industry collapsed. Sturgeon are currently being reintroduced in the Maumee River.

They come for a little fishing, boating, water and jet skiing, paddle boarding and kayaking, but most just bask on the sandy, uncrowded beach.

Geneva on the lake

Spending the evenings on The Strip is the correct thing to do if you accidentally brought the children. That’s cool. Makes the campground quieter in the evenings.

This area is ideal for a couple’s vacation. We stayed for two weeks and enjoyed every minute – especially the pleasant and warm little rain showers that spritzed us nearly every day. They were really no trouble at all. We kept an umbrella close by.

Geneva State Park

and still managed to go paddling …

and take long, leisurely walks on the parks trail system …

A piper plays on the shore
Recent beach erosion is the result of rising water levels and warmer water temperatures. Many beaches are permanently closed.

… where we discovered a wee faerie village in the woods.

On the wettest day we went on a wine tasting tour.

Kosicek Vineyards
Ferrante Winery
Kosicek Vineyards
Kosicek Vineyards
Ferrante Winery
Kosicek Vineyards
Debonne Vineyards (and beer)
Kosicek Vineyards

Most evenings we dined at home from Jim’s 600-Calorie recipe book he’s currently writing. Yep, Jim’s a bean-counter who is literally counting beans.

Pork Chili Verde (two bowls each for only 600 calories per person!)

On our 46th wedding anniversary we drove to Ashtabula for a local dining experience at Bascule Bridge Grille in the Historic Harbor District near the Ashtabula River and the Strauss Bascule Bridge.

A long time from now we will be reminiscing about that dinner. The entire experience – every detail from the window seat, the rustbelt-chic views, the kindness of the staff, to the expertly prepared dinner – all is in permanent memory storage.

Bacon wrapped cheese-stuffed dates
Roasted Cauliflower
Duck Breast with Crispy Brussels and Polenta
Scallops with Apricot Reduction
Ashtabula
Downtown Ashtabula

We like GOTL. It’s an idyllic place to pasture for a while and then move on.

After two weeks of Erie we embarked on an impromptu Sunday drive to …

The NEW Airstream Factory!!!

airstream factory
Jim takes the Adventure Stance at the new Airstream Factory in Jackson Center, Ohio

Jay Cullis and Samantha Martin gave us a sneak preview of the new factory floor and Heritage Center on the 4th of July break.

airstream factory

The Heritage Center, housed in the new facility is a world-class interactive romp through Airstream history. With a dignified fleet of historic trailers basking in the glory of Wally Byam’s immortalized genius, The Heritage Center hitches history up to the heart of what it means to be Airstreamer.

The first factory opened in Culver City, California in 1931. Ninety years later, this spectacular modern facility continues the adventuring legacy.

Unfortunately, interior photos of the manufacturing facility were forbidden, so you can only imagine our wonder and delight of seeing Airstreams in the delicate hatching phase.

frank dibona
An Airstream rookery in action. Thanks to Airstreamer, Frank DiBona for sharing.

Sometimes I opine, “They don’t make things like they used to.” Our factory tour put that to rest. Airstream is the exception. With new technology, equipment and procedures Airstream trailers are even better!

We were inspired. I’m not knitting any pink flamingo booties yet, but the idea of giving Beauty a shiny new little sister named Belle puts a twinkle in my eye and a spring to my step.

Now, more than ever before, Northwest Ohio is worth a look-see. The NEW Airstream Factory Tour and Heritage Center is a destination site to pair with the Armstrong Air and Space Museum and The Bicycle Museum of America near Wapakoneta, where we never fail to stop by J. Marie’s for a bite …

Open-faced Mushroom Sandwich

The next morning – as we stocked up in The Supply Store – a downpour erupted. As proud but cautious California Snowflakes, we don’t relish driving in the rain. Nevertheless, we continued north to Findlay …

on important business …

pilgrim restaurant
Our third time to Pilgrim Restaurant in Findlay, our happy brekkie place.
pilgrim restaurant
Buckwheat pancakes on a flag placemat and a Christmas coffee mug, in July.

Bay City

Then, we crossed the Maumee River and, soon after, entered Michigan.

We had few expectations for Bay City. This would be our last stop before entering Michigan’s Upper Penninsula.

Our camp at Bay City State Park

Our needs were practical – a “gettin’ place” to shop for provisions, and a location to receive packages before entering The Yoop where services and provisions are minimal.

Our camp at Bay City State Park

Arriving as busy people with an agenda, we were caught off guard by the beauty. Bay City, with the boom and bust of the sawmill and ship-building industry, has a learned wisdom about momentum and agendas. Their motto, A Beautiful view … of life, with those three ellipses, feels like a sigh.

bay city state park

Shortly, Jim and I learned that Bay City is more than a grab ‘n go town. We succumbed to a slower pace … to listen, and … breathe.

bay city state park

The perfect weather and gentle beauty simply would not have us rushing around.

We couldn’t get enough of the Center Avenue District and that ostentatious lumber baron architecture …

Bay City Government Offices
The continuing Revitalization of the Historic Blocks

We settled in to the comforts of the river …

bay city

and the hometown culture …

Tri-City Brewing
Bay City Neighborhood Watch

The old sawmill town got under our skin.

The campground provided hiking trails to explore the wetland preserve …

More signs of faery life

The Rail Trail

The rail trail – though still under development – got us where we wanted to go …

… and made driving unnecessary and undesirable …

The lanes took us over the rivers …

and into town …

where we grabbed the last green salads and dining-out experiences we would have for weeks …

Beaver’s Pub
Beaver’s Pub
Bay City window selfie
Real Seafood Company
Real Seafood Company
Uptown Grill

Surprise! Bay City has a music legacy.

bay city madonna

The locals do it proud. Really good free music is everywhere.

On our last night we went to a community event featuring a group of young and aspiring rockers. If we didn’t have to wake up so early in the morning we’d have stayed and listened all night.

Hey, keep an eye on these kids. They’re going places.

Now, UP to The Yoop!

You can see our exact route on this map.

*photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) were taken and copyrighted by Living In Beauty.


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36 Comments
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Carolyn Brothers
Carolyn Brothers
4 years ago

You were in my state! Did you happen to get to Kent? We also love Gulf State Park and usually spend January & February there.

Linda Sanders
Linda Sanders
4 years ago

I spent 13 years in Chicago and took lots of trips up through Michigan to the U.P. Loved every minute. ♥ Took my mom up through Michigan to Macinaw, then back down through Wisconsin. When traveling around Lake Michigan, we would always read aloud the poem The Song Of Hiawatha. ” On the shores of Gitche Gumee…..On the shining big sea water……

Rick N Julie Gramoll
Rick N Julie Gramoll
4 years ago

We stayed a couple nights in GOTL in Sept. Boy it was a ghost town! Definitely a summer weekend place! We did enjoy the quiet though!

MI Robin
MI Robin
4 years ago

What a beautiful blog! Welcome to da U.P., eh!

Argie Rodriguez Perry
Argie Rodriguez Perry
4 years ago

Love hearing your detailed description of Living in Beauty 🥰 You have such a beautiful voice

Argie Rodriguez Perry
Argie Rodriguez Perry
4 years ago

Ha my voice is not musically inclined

Paris VonRabenau
Paris VonRabenau
4 years ago

Our hero’s for your adaptation. You have pushed the boundaries of cool. Get up to Montana and visit Emil Kirschenmann. That is a wowser. We enjoy your travels. Thank you for your posts.

Gail Lane
Gail Lane
4 years ago

For a few years of my career, we lived in Ohio and we tried to explore as much of it and the surrounding states. We especially loved Lake Erie and Kelly’s Island State Park. I couldn’t believe how gorgeously clear the water is now given that the news reports of my youth were filled with Lake Erie being on fire from all the pollution. It truly is a beautiful and very interesting state with visit-worthy side trips to Canton’s FB Hall of Fame, Holmes County Amish, Cincinnati’s Underground Railroad museum and the great Ohio River and the history that played out along its length. Did you know it originates in Pittsburgh where 3-Rivers stadium and park exists? Two other rivers combine at that point to become the Ohio River.

Erik Anderson
Erik Anderson
4 years ago

Great! We had a wonderful time at Geneva State Park in Geneva-On-The-Lake! 😊

Erik Anderson
Erik Anderson
4 years ago

That’s good! Same here…no bugs! And the sunsets over Lake Erie were beautiful.

sunset

Becky Corthorn Weimer
Becky Corthorn Weimer
4 years ago

Marc and I grew up in Buffalo; we know about lake-effect storms. We managed to visit Put-In-Bay in our B-190 for several days this summer; we had never been but might go again. We stayed in the state park.

Jerald Shepherd
Jerald Shepherd
4 years ago

Great adventure, The descriptions are just mesmerizing to read just keep going and sharing your journeys. Light year ago I owned a 30 foot Airstream. I’d enjoyed my time on the road. Thumbs up to you and your wife.

Zac Ware
Zac Ware
4 years ago

We love Geneva on the lake. Campground within golf cart distance of the strip. Photo from the sunset bar on the strip

Jo Soos
Jo Soos
4 years ago

Love it all, but Bay City Window Selfie was outstanding! Art shot.

chapter3travels
4 years ago

Who knew the Ohio parks were so wonderful? Certainly not me since I’m always giving Ohio a hard time. Whoops! Certainly sounds like we should have explored more. Those are some truly beautiful views. You always find the very best places to go and things to do!

Speaking of which, your posts always make me hungry, but that pork chile verde is making me drool. Seriously. 600 calories? Wow! Yum.

Oh, and Happy Anniversary! That dinner looked incredible, too, but I’m thinking it might have been slightly north of 600. 🙂

chapter3travels
4 years ago

Thanks so much for the recipe! Kevin makes a chicken chile verde which we love, so we’re looking forward to making this to compare. Should be great!

I totally hear you on the dining out thing. We, too, have become more picky about where we eat out. It’s not only calories but some of these places just aren’t worth the cash outlay – especially after all the pandemic weirdness in the hospitality industry. It’s all good, as long as you enjoy cooking at home – and you guys obviously do and are fabulous at it! Kevin is our household cook (I like to consider myself sous chef when necessary (Ie: I can chop veggies😄)) but he really enjoys it, so I’m happy to leave him to it and wash the dishes.

Hope y’all are staying warm!

Barbara Taylor
Barbara Taylor
4 years ago

Loved this trip!

Kathy J Anderson
Kathy J Anderson
4 years ago

Thank you for sharing all of your amazing adventures! Safe Travels