Category: Locations

  • Airstreaming to Alaska – Chapter 20: South to the Lower 48

    Airstreaming to Alaska – Chapter 20: South to the Lower 48

    Posted August 5, 2023 – Narrated by Jim
    To listen to the podcast, click the play button
    Airstreaming to Alaska

    Our Alaska overland adventure, beginning in San Diego, had finally come to an end – but endings don’t come fast in Alaska. The adventure isn’t really over until you reach the lower 48, almost 2,000 miles away.

    Cassiar Highway near Meziadin Lake, British Columbia
    Cassiar Highway near Meziadin Lake, British Columbia

    It’s like that time you hiked up to Half Dome and looked down into the valley from the summit and realized you were only halfway home and it was getting dark. It felt like the finish line kept moving farther and farther away. This part of the trip would be a push.

    Haines Highway near Mosquito Lake, Alaska
    The Haines Highway near Mosquito Lake, Alaska

    Weather predictions of snow and rough weather snapped the whip. We gave ourselves ten days. With plenty of sleep and down time, we should make it back safely.

    Haines Highway near Dezadeash Lake, Alaska
    Haines Highway near Dezadeash Lake, Alaska

    As we turned south, the car-talk took a “Holy Cow! We did it!” turn as we logged notes about the journey, everything from the moment we made the decision to go to Alaska; the years of research, planning and prepping; the delays due to COVID and closed borders; and what we learned while there. We were grateful to be heading home, victorious.

    We will miss Alaska…

    ‎⁨Lutak Inlet⁩, ⁨Alaska⁩
    ‎⁨Lutak Inlet⁩, ⁨Alaska⁩

    but it was comforting to pass through Yukon and British Columbia again. These provinces hold their own in splendorous glacial scenery and a warm welcoming nature.

    Leaving Alaska

    Leaving Haines, our journey took us through British Columbia for a few miles…

    Canadian border check-point
    Canadian border check-point as you leave Haines, Alaska

    then, into Yukon…

    yukon border

    where we boondocked off the Alaska Highway in a gravel turnout near…

    Haines Junction

    haines junction
    Our free boondocking site near Haines Junction
    Coordinates 62.173000, -140.679000 (62°10’22.8″ N 140°40’44.4″ W)
    haines junction

    Just in time for Happy Hour, we poured the last few splashes of a well-traveled bottle of homemade limoncello – a gift, from our friend, Trish – into the hand-carved ice glasses from Chena Hot Springs and raised a toast to Alaska.

    chena hot springs ice glasses
    chena hot springs ice glasses
    chena hot springs ice glasses

    In keeping with tradition, we dashed the glasses on the rocks to celebrate.

    Teslin Rest Stop

    The scenery from Haines Junction to Teslin, Yukon, is breathtaking.

    jakes corner
    Just east of Jakes Corner, Yukon
    alaska highway
    Alaska Highway near ‎⁨Teslin River⁩ and Johnsons Crossing⁩, ⁨Yukon⁩
    ibex valley yukon
    Near ‎⁨Ibex Valley⁩, ⁨Yukon

    As we passed through Whitehorse, Yukon, we ducked into the Burnt Toast Café , our favorite spot for a good, hearty bite.

    burnt toast whitehorse
    Reuben with brined pastrami, sauerkraut, grainy mustard and Gruyere cheese on marble rye, and a side salad.

    Then, pulled into the same rest area we stayed in June, across the bridge from Teslin with a magnificent view of the lake.

    teslin
    The Teslin rest stop, our free boondocking site for the night
    Coordinates 60.160825, -132.693421 (60°09’39.0″N 132°41’36.3″W)
    Our view from the Teslin rest stop

    We left the Alaska Highway near Watson Lake and turned south onto the Cassiar Highway.

    The scenery on this highway is beautiful …

    Cassiar Highway
    Near the border of British Columbia on the Cassiar Highway
    Cassiar Highway
    Cassiar Highway north of Jade City, British Columbia

    but the road was a challenge due to snow heaves and ongoing repairs.

    alaska highway nugget city
    Alaska Highway just west of Nugget City, right before we headed south on the Cassiar Highway – dirt and gravel
    Cassiar Highway
    Cassiar Highway north of Tā Ch’ilā Park

    That evening we settled in for a free night’s sleep in the parking lot of

    Jade City

    jade city
    Jade City, British Columbia
    jade city
    jade city

    a settlement, well known to rock hounds. After buying a small gift for Carmen’s dad, we set out for a day of jaw-dripping views

    Cassiar Highway
    Cassiar Highway near Snowbank Creek
    cassiar highway
    Cassiar Highway near the Iskut River
    cassiar highway
    Cassiar Highway near Tatogga and Mount Edziza, British Columbia

    and took an overnight pause at

    Mehan Lake Rest Area

    for a quiet night by the lake.

    Our free boondocking campsite near Mehan Lake
    Coordinates 56.726417, -129.780031 (56°43’35.1″N 129°46’48.1″W)

    We would have been alone on the lake, but at dark we were joined by a group of hunters heading north for the opening of Elk season.

    The following day, the views kept our heads turning.

    cassiar highway
    Near Bowser Lake, British Columbia
    cassiar highway
    Near Mount Pattullo, British Columbia
    cassiar highway
    North of ‎⁨Smithers⁩, ⁨British Columbia⁩

    That night we hit the wall on long travel days, so we stopped for two nights at the

    Fort Telkwa Riverfront RV Park

    Fort Telkwa Riverfront RV Park

    Our site overlooked the beautiful Bulkley river.

    Fort Telkwa Riverfront RV Park

    One of the campground owners greeted us with sad news. A few days earlier, her husband – in his late 70’s – had died while attending to maintenance on the shoreline. Campgrounds offered “for sale” by elderly owners was a common sight – one of the reasons why full-hook-up campsites were so few and far between.

    Fort Telkwa Riverfront RV Park
    Our site at Fort Telkwa Riverfront RV Park (now closed)

    Leaving Fort Telkwa, the scenery changed dramatically as we continued deeper into British Columbia. Civilization greeted us with the blessing of harvest-time. This familiar latitude warmed our hearts and made us smile.

    cassiar highway
    South of Telkwa, British Columbia

    Prince George Walmart Parking lot

    Ah, civilization! We nestled happily into the same comfortable spot at the Prince George Walmart parking lot where we stayed in May.

    prince george walmart

    100 Mile House Municipal Campground

    The next day we gingerly picked our way through logging country, pulling over frequently to concede the road to people with jobs. Our view was fairly consistent …

    cassiar highway

    all the way to 100 Mile House.

    100 Mile House Municipal Campground
    Our campsite at 100 Mile House Municipal Campground

    The next day we stopped in fascinating Kamloops where we spent the night as Harvest Host guests at

    Mount Paul Golf Course

    Mount Paul Golf Course harvest host
    Our free Harvest Host campsite at the Mount Paul Golf Course, Kamloops, British Columbia.

    There, our friends Laura and Doug greeted us. They drove almost 100 miles from their lake house. We all went out for dinner and enjoyed a tour of the city of Kamloops, where we hope to visit again.

    Crowsnest Vineyards

    highway 97
    ‎⁨Highway 97 near Boulder Lake, ⁨British Columbia⁩

    Now, on the final stretch, we followed the Amalfi-like shoreline of beautiful Lake Okanagan.

    Lake Okanagan
    Lake Okanagan, British Columbia

    where we had our first introduction to British Columbia’s famous Wine Country.

    Okanagan wine country

    These picturesque mountains and lake valleys with hillside vineyards and orchards captured our attention. We could have crossed the border that day, but we had to make a Harvest Host stop at Crowsnest Vineyard in Cawston.

    Crowsnest Vineyards
    A Harvest Host with free overnight camping in the vines.

    British Columbia Lake Country is now on our short list for Spring-Fall seasonal camping.

    Crowsnest Vineyards

    Fortunately Crowsnest had a table open at their world class restaurant where we enjoyed a celebratory “back to the lower 48” meal.

    Crowsnest Vineyards
    Orange Duck with broccoli and potatoes
    Crowsnest Vineyards
    Roasted eggplant, beets, pasta, and apples …
    Crowsnest Vineyards
    and Mr. Cream Puff joined us for dessert!

    Now, just 14 miles to go. We used the quietest U.S. border crossing in Washington State, the Nighthawk Port of Entry in Loomis.

    Canadian Border check-point
    Canadian Border check-point just before the US Border check-point

    The U.S. customs officer grilled us for more than 30 minutes, warning of heavy fines if we did not disclose a written list of each and every item of potential contraband in the truck and trailer, “You RVers are the worst offenders,” we were told. But we had no potential contraband or food. We’d taken our licks and learned that lesson in Victoria. After a very polite (and long) discussion we were waived a hand’s on inspection and allowed back into the States. Just before we pulled away the officer congratulated us on the condition of our rig. We were the best looking outfit he’d seen coming from Alaska. “Most of ’em are wrecks, barely able to drag their axels across the border,” he said.

    Well okay. If that’s a Welcome Home, we’ll take it!

    Stay tuned! The last chapter in the Alaska series, Lessons Learned, will be released soon with the details of what we wish we’d known or paid more attention to before we set out.


    You can see our exact route on this map.

    *photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) were taken and copyrighted by Living In Beauty.


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