3546 days into our open-ended journey

Airstreaming to Alaska – Chapter 20: South to the Lower 48

Posted August 5, 2023 – Narrated by Jim
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Airstreaming to Alaska

Our Alaska overland adventure, beginning in San Diego, had finally come to an end – but endings don’t come fast in Alaska. The adventure isn’t really over until you reach the lower 48, almost 2,000 miles away.

Cassiar Highway near Meziadin Lake, British Columbia
Cassiar Highway near Meziadin Lake, British Columbia

It’s like that time you hiked up to Half Dome and looked down into the valley from the summit and realized you were only halfway home and it was getting dark. It felt like the finish line kept moving farther and farther away. This part of the trip would be a push.

Haines Highway near Mosquito Lake, Alaska
The Haines Highway near Mosquito Lake, Alaska

Weather predictions of snow and rough weather snapped the whip. We gave ourselves ten days. With plenty of sleep and down time, we should make it back safely.

Haines Highway near Dezadeash Lake, Alaska
Haines Highway near Dezadeash Lake, Alaska

As we turned south, the car-talk took a “Holy Cow! We did it!” turn as we logged notes about the journey, everything from the moment we made the decision to go to Alaska; the years of research, planning and prepping; the delays due to COVID and closed borders; and what we learned while there. We were grateful to be heading home, victorious.

We will miss Alaska…

‎⁨Lutak Inlet⁩, ⁨Alaska⁩
‎⁨Lutak Inlet⁩, ⁨Alaska⁩

but it was comforting to pass through Yukon and British Columbia again. These provinces hold their own in splendorous glacial scenery and a warm welcoming nature.

Leaving Alaska

Leaving Haines, our journey took us through British Columbia for a few miles…

Canadian border check-point
Canadian border check-point as you leave Haines, Alaska

then, into Yukon…

yukon border

where we boondocked off the Alaska Highway in a gravel turnout near…

Haines Junction

haines junction
Our free boondocking site near Haines Junction
Coordinates 62.173000, -140.679000 (62°10’22.8″ N 140°40’44.4″ W)
haines junction

Just in time for Happy Hour, we poured the last few splashes of a well-traveled bottle of homemade limoncello – a gift, from our friend, Trish – into the hand-carved ice glasses from Chena Hot Springs and raised a toast to Alaska.

chena hot springs ice glasses
chena hot springs ice glasses
chena hot springs ice glasses

In keeping with tradition, we dashed the glasses on the rocks to celebrate.

Teslin Rest Stop

The scenery from Haines Junction to Teslin, Yukon, is breathtaking.

jakes corner
Just east of Jakes Corner, Yukon
alaska highway
Alaska Highway near ‎⁨Teslin River⁩ and Johnsons Crossing⁩, ⁨Yukon⁩
ibex valley yukon
Near ‎⁨Ibex Valley⁩, ⁨Yukon

As we passed through Whitehorse, Yukon, we ducked into the Burnt Toast Café , our favorite spot for a good, hearty bite.

burnt toast whitehorse
Reuben with brined pastrami, sauerkraut, grainy mustard and Gruyere cheese on marble rye, and a side salad.

Then, pulled into the same rest area we stayed in June, across the bridge from Teslin with a magnificent view of the lake.

teslin
The Teslin rest stop, our free boondocking site for the night
Coordinates 60.160825, -132.693421 (60°09’39.0″N 132°41’36.3″W)
Our view from the Teslin rest stop

We left the Alaska Highway near Watson Lake and turned south onto the Cassiar Highway.

The scenery on this highway is beautiful …

Cassiar Highway
Near the border of British Columbia on the Cassiar Highway
Cassiar Highway
Cassiar Highway north of Jade City, British Columbia

but the road was a challenge due to snow heaves and ongoing repairs.

alaska highway nugget city
Alaska Highway just west of Nugget City, right before we headed south on the Cassiar Highway – dirt and gravel
Cassiar Highway
Cassiar Highway north of Tā Ch’ilā Park

That evening we settled in for a free night’s sleep in the parking lot of

Jade City

jade city
Jade City, British Columbia
jade city
jade city

a settlement, well known to rock hounds. After buying a small gift for Carmen’s dad, we set out for a day of jaw-dripping views

Cassiar Highway
Cassiar Highway near Snowbank Creek
cassiar highway
Cassiar Highway near the Iskut River
cassiar highway
Cassiar Highway near Tatogga and Mount Edziza, British Columbia

and took an overnight pause at

Mehan Lake Rest Area

for a quiet night by the lake.

Our free boondocking campsite near Mehan Lake
Coordinates 56.726417, -129.780031 (56°43’35.1″N 129°46’48.1″W)

We would have been alone on the lake, but at dark we were joined by a group of hunters heading north for the opening of Elk season.

The following day, the views kept our heads turning.

cassiar highway
Near Bowser Lake, British Columbia
cassiar highway
Near Mount Pattullo, British Columbia
cassiar highway
North of ‎⁨Smithers⁩, ⁨British Columbia⁩

That night we hit the wall on long travel days, so we stopped for two nights at the

Fort Telkwa Riverfront RV Park

Fort Telkwa Riverfront RV Park

Our site overlooked the beautiful Bulkley river.

Fort Telkwa Riverfront RV Park

One of the campground owners greeted us with sad news. A few days earlier, her husband – in his late 70’s – had died while attending to maintenance on the shoreline. Campgrounds offered “for sale” by elderly owners was a common sight – one of the reasons why full-hook-up campsites were so few and far between.

Fort Telkwa Riverfront RV Park
Our site at Fort Telkwa Riverfront RV Park (now closed)

Leaving Fort Telkwa, the scenery changed dramatically as we continued deeper into British Columbia. Civilization greeted us with the blessing of harvest-time. This familiar latitude warmed our hearts and made us smile.

cassiar highway
South of Telkwa, British Columbia

Prince George Walmart Parking lot

Ah, civilization! We nestled happily into the same comfortable spot at the Prince George Walmart parking lot where we stayed in May.

prince george walmart

100 Mile House Municipal Campground

The next day we gingerly picked our way through logging country, pulling over frequently to concede the road to people with jobs. Our view was fairly consistent …

cassiar highway

all the way to 100 Mile House.

100 Mile House Municipal Campground
Our campsite at 100 Mile House Municipal Campground

The next day we stopped in fascinating Kamloops where we spent the night as Harvest Host guests at

Mount Paul Golf Course

Mount Paul Golf Course harvest host
Our free Harvest Host campsite at the Mount Paul Golf Course, Kamloops, British Columbia.

There, our friends Laura and Doug greeted us. They drove almost 100 miles from their lake house. We all went out for dinner and enjoyed a tour of the city of Kamloops, where we hope to visit again.

Crowsnest Vineyards

highway 97
‎⁨Highway 97 near Boulder Lake, ⁨British Columbia⁩

Now, on the final stretch, we followed the Amalfi-like shoreline of beautiful Lake Okanagan.

Lake Okanagan
Lake Okanagan, British Columbia

where we had our first introduction to British Columbia’s famous Wine Country.

Okanagan wine country

These picturesque mountains and lake valleys with hillside vineyards and orchards captured our attention. We could have crossed the border that day, but we had to make a Harvest Host stop at Crowsnest Vineyard in Cawston.

Crowsnest Vineyards
A Harvest Host with free overnight camping in the vines.

British Columbia Lake Country is now on our short list for Spring-Fall seasonal camping.

Crowsnest Vineyards

Fortunately Crowsnest had a table open at their world class restaurant where we enjoyed a celebratory “back to the lower 48” meal.

Crowsnest Vineyards
Orange Duck with broccoli and potatoes
Crowsnest Vineyards
Roasted eggplant, beets, pasta, and apples …
Crowsnest Vineyards
and Mr. Cream Puff joined us for dessert!

Now, just 14 miles to go. We used the quietest U.S. border crossing in Washington State, the Nighthawk Port of Entry in Loomis.

Canadian Border check-point
Canadian Border check-point just before the US Border check-point

The U.S. customs officer grilled us for more than 30 minutes, warning of heavy fines if we did not disclose a written list of each and every item of potential contraband in the truck and trailer, “You RVers are the worst offenders,” we were told. But we had no potential contraband or food. We’d taken our licks and learned that lesson in Victoria. After a very polite (and long) discussion we were waived a hand’s on inspection and allowed back into the States. Just before we pulled away the officer congratulated us on the condition of our rig. We were the best looking outfit he’d seen coming from Alaska. “Most of ’em are wrecks, barely able to drag their axels across the border,” he said.

Well okay. If that’s a Welcome Home, we’ll take it!

Stay tuned! The last chapter in the Alaska series, Lessons Learned, will be released soon with the details of what we wish we’d known or paid more attention to before we set out.


You can see our exact route on this map.

*photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) were taken and copyrighted by Living In Beauty.


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35 Comments
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Leslie Pels-Beck
Leslie Pels-Beck
2 years ago

Getting ready to board a flight to Vancouver because your outbound post inspired us to make a trip there. Always such beautiful photos! Thanks for sharing.

Kathy Walker
Kathy Walker
2 years ago

I have really enjoyed your Alaska blogs and look forward to your lessons learned in the future. We are starting to plan our 2024 trip from Wisconsin to Alaska with our 22 Flying Cloud.

Dana Smith
Dana Smith
2 years ago

Beautiful photos – thanks for sharing.

Lizbeth Price
Lizbeth Price
2 years ago

No better way to experience a travel destination than at ground level! You’ve seen a Yukon and Alaska few have!

Dan Van Noppen
Dan Van Noppen
2 years ago
Reply to  Lizbeth Price

Wonderful post as always! When you headed to Haines, at the end of the last post, I thought you might take the ferry back to Washington. We will take the ferry up on our next trip to Alaska and drive back.

James Lepanto
James Lepanto
2 years ago

What a great adventure it had been!

Melinda Phillips Sarver Downie
Melinda Phillips Sarver Downie
2 years ago

Thanks for sharing!

Carol Hubbard
2 years ago

While we had thought we’d be touring the U.S. in an Airstream Classic, “life happened” and we’re now living in the mountains of Ecuador instead. It’s a good (and very inexpensive) life, but I wish we could have done both. Thus my enjoyment at being able to be an armchair Airstreamer through your lyrical and lovely posts. Thank you!

Terry Dalick Madden
Terry Dalick Madden
2 years ago

Beautiful photos! It’s on our list of places to go!

Judy Shelley
Judy Shelley
2 years ago

Just back from Alaska………………..by cruise ship! As always, love, love, love following your journeys. Hugs to you and Jim.

Judy

Jim Pascarella
Jim Pascarella
2 years ago

Have you thought about Hawaii as your next stop?
I’m sure they have great camping on each of the islands
You need to turn one of these Blogettes out every other day to catch up to where you actually are at. I would be happy to assist as co-writer (I would get 50% of the profits of course). Just give me the name of a city/town/river/waterfall/KOA facility and I’ll write some clever remarks. I can go to some local eateries (Dennys/KFC/Roundtable) and take pix of the food — no one will know. I have great shots from the top of Cowles Mountain etc. you can use. All in the interest of expediency
By the way, did the border guard really call the other folks’ RVs “wreaks” as in the smelled bad?

Mary Kay Kirchner
Mary Kay Kirchner
2 years ago

We have so enjoyed your Alaska adventures. Our trip was much shorter (39 days), From Maryland to Dawson City, across the Top of the World Highway, to McCarthy and Valdez, and then back on the Alaska Highway. It was our best Alaska trip out of the five, so far. Our border crossings were quite pleasant, but we did enter through Montana and depart from Manitoba. Crossing into North Dakota, after the usual questions about food, alcohol, and weapons (important ones, to be sure) and where we had come from (Alaska), the border agent looked at us and then our rig (a Flying Cloud), and said “Are you retired?” We assured him we were. And then he said, “Living the dream, aren’t you?”

Shauna Reed
Shauna Reed
2 years ago

Love it! We are doing North Carolina to Alaska and back right now….and still doing it….traveling through Canada at the moment. We left June 6 and are currently at 11,000 miles traveled thus far! Such a beautiful journey.

Roanna Skelley
Roanna Skelley
2 years ago

Beautiful! In 1981 the AlCan was all gravel! Previous Hubby thought he could do “ the speed I want” it was 35 mph posted… yeah lost our bathroom pipes underneath the tt.. such as smart move

Jim Russo
Jim Russo
2 years ago

We are scheduled for a 3 month journey to Alaska in 2024. Your blog gave me insights and “envy”! Thank you for allowing us to travel with you – we enjoy every blog issue! …Jim

Linda and Greg
Linda and Greg
2 years ago

I am exhausted just reading about your daily trek back to the lower 48. Even though I know you have been back for almost a year, I breathed a sigh of relief when you crossed the border. Intrepid!
Linda and Greg

Brenda Staresnick
Brenda Staresnick
2 years ago

My husband I Airstreamed from 2007/2014..31′..not full time but-6-9 weeks at a time. Never made it to Alaska, but in a restaurant in Oregon we met a couple waiting for a group of vintage Airstreams to gather for a trip to Alaska together. Now that would have been a sight to behold!! Enjoy

Brenda

Liesbet @ Roaming About

Hi you two!

I’m a tad late to the party, but I needed to wait to check your blog posts until we had enough data to load the photos, which I don’t want to miss.

Speaking of photos, there is one, under Jade City with the caption “Cassiar Highway near Snowbank Creek” that had a vertical white line in the sky. I wonder if that was a rocket or something as a plane would never make that kind of movement…

I can totally relate to being exhausted after all that driving on the way south. And, the bad roads. We’ve been driving every day now, here in Peru, for almost three weeks (in addition to sightseeing, working, and running our lives), because we can’t find a decent spot to rest. How I miss the Alaskan peace, quiet, and scenery. 🙂

Congratulations on a grand journey completed!