Posted August 9, 2022 – Narrated by Carmen
“Winter dreams the same dream
every time.”
Hello, Victoria
Transported by ferry across the Strait of Juan de Fuca from Port Angeles, we arrived to Inner Harbor within 90 minutes.
While waiting in line at Customs, I called my sister, Deborah, who reminded me of her honeymoon road trip from San Diego to Victoria with film star, David Miller in 1975.
“Pardon me if it slipped my mind, but you do realize that was almost fifty years ago,” I said. Then, I asked her what we should do in Victoria. “Ride the ferries to the islands,” she suggested.
Then, all pumped up for the usual Canada wave through, we donned our masks as instructed and pulled up to the inspection kiosk.
Why did Living in Beauty cross the Strait of Juan de Fuca?
For many reasons, but not for an hour-long customs search by federal officers who seized an unopened jar of hemp cream. We studied the literature ahead, so the confiscation of our ointment is baffling. Why didn’t they take our hemp soap? We have no idea. Maybe that’s why we skedaddled the moment they released us, before the sniffer dogs could pick up on our hemp underwear.
Like bootleggers on a hot run, we blasted through scenic downtown Victoria …
into the bucolic countryside …
to a secret hideout on the beach …
where we laid low, tried to blend in and shake off the nerves.
Then, two things happened.
First: The sun came out.
This was the warmest moment we’d experienced since leaving San Diego in January.
Then, our Canadian neighbors in a 5th wheel noticed we could use some cheer and invited us over for game time, refreshments, and to talk smack about customs on both sides of the border.
This gang of former Victorians shared their valuable insider’s sightseeing advice.
They also broke the news that ferry services to the San Juan Islands were a casualty of the pandemic.
That was a bummer, missing the San Juans. But, at least, we didn’t feel like lonely outlaws anymore. So we threw the dice, and won a game-plan for what turned out to be three fabulous weeks in Victoria, British Columbia.
“You can be sure that I will never stop believing …”
The sunshine didn’t last.
The May sky remained as shifty and mysterious as those Dow-Jones graphs, holding us in thrall and confusion over what it all means. Every morning we took our seat on the eagle bench to study the ENSO boxing match and try to predict the outcome for the day. All May long, Winter held dominance, yet Spring won a few impressive rounds.
Airstreamer’s Mini Reunion
The first activity on our list was to visit with our full-time Airstreaming friends who have their stabilizers down in the region. These inspiring women give assurance that families can make a wholesome home on The Road, even with children and careers. We are awed by their ingenuity, joy, and spirit of adventure.
Encouraged by their good advice, Victoria began to unfold like a rose.
The Galloping Goose
The Galloping Goose, a 60-kilometer multi-use trail, offers some the best scenery in British Columbia.
Linking the small villages on an emerald green lane, this trail is a hallmark of the Vancouver Island bike-positive landscape.
Pico’s Day Out
Wind chill was an issue. It made the low 60’s feel like the low 40’s even in the sun, so Pico was often housebound with his fluff-friend RattyRat.
But, finally the wind took a break and we explored dog-friendly Victoria.
Butchart Gardens
With so many places where Pico is not allowed, we were overjoyed that Butchart Gardens, a National Historic Site, welcomes dogs – even Chihuahuas.
Best dog walk ever.
The expansive grounds …
focused on classic Spring color …
drew us in, closer …
and closer, into the miracle of Spring.
Gelato in the Italian Garden topped off Pico’s Big Day at Butchart.
Rain or shine, dogs are forbidden in …
Craigdarroch Castle
After our visit we were amazed the doors were open to the likes of us, notorious hemp smugglers that we are.
What’s the Groucho Marks quote? “I don’t want to belong to any club that would accept me as a member.” Yeah, we had that syndrome.
This is no dusty old castle tour. We realized we’d misjudged this tour when we passed through a shoe scraping station with staff oversight. Craigdarroch Castle is almost too much to absorb in a single visit. Jim, a purveyor of fine wood craftsmanship was speechless, cornered by maximum sensory overload.
We gawked up.
we gawked down ..
we gawked all around …
at the furnishings …
the Hudson River School art …
the textiles, metal and glass work.
It’s always interesting to learn about the architect and occupants …
about their successes and failures …
values and contradictions.
The servant’s quarters, kitchen and maintenance equipment offered insight into the daily lives of our working class ancestors.
Craigdarroch Castle is the finest restoration project we’ve ever seen. Lingering is encouraged. We never felt rushed. The experience renewed our sense of good fortune.
To us, Beauty, our Airstream trailer, is the ideal home with nearly a century of proven craftsmanship and luxurious details in her silvery bones. She has a history of occupants before us and other occupants will, someday, follow.
A romanesque castle or their modern equivalent, the super yacht, can’t compete with the sustainability or wide-ranging mobility of an Airstream trailer.
If an emergency arises, Beauty is fully outfitted with our gear and we can hitch up and move within 15-30 minutes as any modern home should be able to do these days, wot wot?
Government House
Our neighbors told us about a charming English Garden on the grounds of Government House which has the appearance of a gated private estate.
This tranquil garden is – without fanfare or billboards – free and open to the public.
Other than this young Lord …
we were alone, strolling about the grounds that cold, wet and grey morning.
Government House is in an ideal location to begin a busy day in the city …
“The blushing rose will climb
Spring ahead or fall behind …”
Feeling the glow of fully endowed Victorians we moved on to …
Parliament of Victoria
The Parliamentary Dining Room is another pro-tip from our neighbors at the beach. Yes, even seniors slathered in hemp cream are welcome to dine at the table of the Legislative Assembly of British Columbia.
Jim called in advance for entrance. You won’t get a better meal and service for the price anywhere in Victoria.
After lunch we watched a short session of the legislature as they discussed a vehicular issue. Then, we toured these impressive halls of justice.
I indulged in a bit of shopping at the Parliamentary Gift Shop, purchasing the official tartan of British Columbia for my sister and brother-in-law in honor of their honeymoon here.
Then, suddenly, that special Someone of Platinum Jubilee fame reminded us it was time for Tea.
Murchies
Oh dear, what shall we do? Having tea during Happy Hour is a customary point of tourism in these parts. High Tea at The Empress is most popular with Americans.
But The Empress is also the most pricy option – especially if you pony up for the single flute of champagne. We reserve the big money for anniversaries, birthdays and pain cream. Still, we checked it out.
The Empress is a stunning hotel. The walk-through is free and the shops are lovely.
Yet, Murchies Fine Tea & Coffee is the locals tradition – a place where the history and old world charm doesn’t break the bank.
What a jolly-good tea time! And all for under twenty bucks …
Thanks, Queen.
Oh dear. Is it Happy Hour already?
Six Mile Pub
This old Roadhouse is a 100-year old landmark.
Still beautiful. In it’s early days it served as hub for a successful rum-running enterprise.
Lovingly preserved, the fragrance of wood and linseed oil transported us back to our old childhood schools, churches and post offices which may have been built with wood from this region.
We toasted to the ghosts still lingering about and indulged in the classic pub fare. While dining, it began to rain topping off a perfect foodie day in Victoria.
Victoria Butterfly Gardens
As rain continued for days we discovered the outdoors at the indoor conservatory, Victoria Butterfly Gardens. Here, the environmental message is centered on the power of the small things …
Zillions of tiny entities living in the shadows keep the ecosystem in balance. These alien creatures are our essential workers, our benefactors, our real-life faery godmothers.
Madelyn L’Engle said, “Some things have to be believed to be seen.”
We depend on these vulnerable creatures as they depend on us to not interfere in their work.
Feeding, mating and hatching offspring must be accomplished in the shadows.
Our awareness of these creatures existence only benefits their survival and ours if we understand the bridge that spans our separate worlds.
Respect nature and preserve the connection.
“So close your eyes
Open your heart …”
My Chosen Cafe, just five-minutes from our campsite, served as our get-away – a place to give Jim a break from cooking dinner.
But there is no shortage of cozy pubs and sunny seaside places to have tea and scones or a bite and a beer in Victoria.
You can always paddle it off when the sun comes out.
“Even though you’ve lost your way
The world keeps dreaming of spring…”
Victoria is a city in balance.
It is organized, but not too. Proper, but not too.
Relaxed, but not too.
It’s an authentic city that openly strives for perfection. If Victoria has flaws, it is only evidence that shooting for the moon is tough work. Improvement is what humans do best.
Take it from us. Sure, we started out on the wrong side of the law – but look, we are reformed!
Victoria is a city where little seems to spiral out of control.
For that kind of fun you’ve gotta get outta town. About twenty minutes north on a beautiful old cattle trail – Malahat Drive (Trans Canada Highway 1) named for the Malahat Nation who got here first.
Malahat Skywalk
Our sensory experience began at the Skywalk cafe …
followed by a soothing walk beneath the Arbutus trees (or Pacific Madrones – Canada’s only broad-leaf evergreen tree) …
which leads to the Spiral Tower.
An extravagant building for the singular purpose of amusement is called a folly. But, in this example, it is also for education and enlightenment – so, I call it a brainstorm.
This fantastic conical, twisting walkway looks like a giant slinky being prepared for launch across the inlet.
Every part of this experience is pure joy right up to the big let down, a twenty meter long slide that triggered Jim’s need for speed …
The Skywalk wrapped up three memorable weeks in Victoria.
On a frosty morning in late May – the last official week of Spring – we pulled out of Vancouver wearing three layers of clothing. Heading north toward Whistler, British Columbia, we watched for ice, falling rocks, bear, moose, elk, rock sheep and deer while keeping an eye on our tail for revenuers. 🤪
“Remember everything that spring
Can bring”
Chapters in the “Airstreaming to Alaska” series
- Chapter 1 – San Diego to Malibu
- Chapter 2 – Malibu to Morro Bay
- Chapter 3 – Morro Bay to Santa Cruz
- Chapter 4 – Santa Cruz to San Francisco
- Chapter 5 – San Francisco to Eureka
- Chapter 6 – The Oregon Coast
- Chapter 7 – The Strait of Juan de Fuca
- Chapter 8 – Victoria, British Columbia
- Chapter 9 – Victoria to Mackenzie
- Chapter 10 – The Alaska Highway
- Chapter 11 – Yukon
- Chapter 12 – Top of the World Highway to Chicken, Alaska
- Chapter 13 – Tok to Valdez
- Chapter 14 – Glacier View to Anchorage
- Chapter 15 – Kenai Peninsula
- Chapter 16 – Whittier to Talkeetna
- Chapter 17 – Denali
- Chapter 18 – North Pole to Chena Hot Springs – coming soon!
- Chapter 19 – Tok to Haines – coming soon!
- Chapter 20 – Haines Junction to the Lower 48 – coming soon!
- Chapter 21 – Lesson Learned – coming soon!
If you want to see our exact route, click here.
*photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) were taken and copyrighted by Living In Beauty.
We will be camping near Whittier, Alaska, for a few days and will not have cell service or internet until probably after August 13th. We apologize for our delay in responding to comments.
Great pictures and story!
Thanks Ben! We’re in Talkeetna. Hope all is well with you. Give our best to Ruth.
xoxo and Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Welcome to Beautiful British Columbia, My geocaching buddy and I both from Prince George met you at your stay in Mackenzie. I have been enjoying following your travels as you post. Looks like the next chapter will include the BC Interior. Happy travels. 🙂
Cindy!!! I remember you! We loved Mackenzie. That sweet town is a wonderful place to rest and enjoy the backcountry of spectacular British Columbia! What a joy to have you with us on the LIB caravan.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Well, the summer switch turned on June 15th, and it has only rained a brief night time shower since. Our grass is almost brown and we have forgotten the longest PNW spring in recent memory. Hope to see you when you pass through the Port Angeles again.
Hey Anne! Thank you for sharing. Wow, I can’t even imagine brown grass in Port Angeles or anywhere in PNW. We are still not sure where we will reenter the states but we WILL be back in your region again someday at and we’re looking forward to connecting then. We love everything about that region – the food, outdoors, arts and culture – and, we just feel at home there.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
What a lovely visit to Vancouver Island! Husband’s family visited when he was a kid; I have yet to get there. Thanks for letting me in on your trip!
It’s a pleasure to have you with us, Becky. I hope you do go there someday. The town is very walkable and they are building more infrastructure to enhance walking and cycling in and around town. It’s a great city, almost idyllic.
Thanks so much for being with us!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Pico looks just like our chihuahua mix called “chocolate” or “chockie” for short. She was an old lady when we rescued her, probably a breeder somewhere local tossed her out when she got about 9 years old.
She was the boss of the house, mothered all the other rescues, and was probably 20+ years old when she passed. They are incredibly tough and loving dogs…
Hey Rich!
When Deborah, my sister, rescued Pico in Mississippi she was told he is a mixture of Chihuahua and Feist – I”m not sure this is accurate but I hear Feist is a native breed that goes back thousands of years and is originally the wild dog of central and north America – which is supposed to insure better health and longevity … and feistiness. It’s a challenge to protect our friends from receiving The Mark of Pico. Though he’s a handful, we love the lil’ whipper-snapper and he seems to love us most of the time – especially when it’s cold and our laps are warm. His best qualities are: he likes to talk, sing the Happy Birthday song and protect the house from potential intruders – which is just about everyone. We love him. May he live as long as your sweet Chockie.
Thanks so much for being with us, Rich.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Carmen and Jim, please never stop sending me your blogs ! I live vicariously through them. Connie and I leave today for the Discovering Cascadia Caravan and will be home October 27. That 79 days on the road for us. Sorry you’re going to be just north of us when we get to Washington. I’d love to say hello in person. You’ve given us good ideas for places to stay in Washington and other spots if and when we do a trip by ourselves. All the best to the two of you and Pico.
Wow, Mark! This sounds like a fabulous caravan!
https://airstreamclub.org/discovering-cascadia-caravan-2023
Thanks for sharing. Jim and I hope your Pacific Northwest adventure provides many treasured memories. We just love the area and can’t wait to go back. There’s enough in that region to keep an avid explorer busy for a lifetime.
Hopefully someday we will meet you up the road. Until then, what a joy to have you with us here.
Safe & Happy Travels to you and Connie!
Carmen@LIB
Oh, how fun! We’ve been to Victoria three times, once with our RV several years ago when we spent almost six weeks on Vancouver Island traveling from one end to the other. Victoria is such a delightful city, and you captured it well in your words and photos. That Malahat Skywalk looks so cool! It wasn’t there when we visited, darn!
It is a bit unnerving to get stopped and searched by customs—it’s happened to us, too, including when we returned from our Vancouver Island trip. The U.S. took our lemon that was grown in California, LOL. It’s so random. Happy and safe travels!
Laurel!
Great to have you with us! Wow … six weeks on Vancouver Island sounds like heaven. Many travelers prefer to visit during their characteristically mild winters. The cold Spring we experienced was an anomaly but, next time I think I would prefer to visit in summer.
Yes, Malahat Skywalk is new. I think it opened about four years ago. For us, it was a highlight.
We understand the customs search and support federal law enforcement. It’s an important part of international security. I grew up on military bases and figured our luck wouldn’t hold out forever. But, it was kind of funny that it happened just we both jumped through hoops to finally secure our Global Passes 😂
Yes! It was FUN! Everyone should have a chance to see beautiful Victoria!
Thanks so much for sharing your experience, Laurel!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
I need the name of that cream. Sounds like it really works. Thanks
Hey Linda!
As you know, Jim has major orthopedic problems. We found this cream in Sedona during the early days of the pandemic. We’d tried several others with some success – but this one works fast and keeps us moving.
https://myhealthetc.com/endoca-body-butter/
Miss you, Gal! Hope to see you next year, maybe.
xoxo,
Carmen@LIB
Thanks so much. Checking it out now. You guys have fun and be careful. Love you both. And love your posts and blogs.
Loved inhaling the Spring beauty of the Gardens that you artfully captured.
Since we were returning from an awesome Ironman experience in Penticton,
the blooms that enveloped us were later season varieties of intense color, but
awesome. It certainly is a pedestrian-friendly city.
Ohhh… thanks for sharing Connie!
https://www.visitpenticton.com
Yes, Canada does know how to celebrate Spring color – and congratulations on your Ironman experience!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Loved the photos of Butchart Gardens and afternoon tea!
Oh yes, Victoria is the place to go for tea. Tea enthusiasts can enjoy tea every day at a different teahouse for two weeks, at least. They don’t call it British Columbia for nothin ☕️
Thanks for joining us for tea, Carol!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Beauty! We’re heading to Anacortes and then to Port Angeles on our way home from Alaska. We’ve decided not to take our Classic over to Vancouver Island but rather rent a car and stay in a B&B. But your picture makes me wonder why we decided to do that!!
Hey Barb & Ralph!
The ferry made for a safe and easy crossing. If we hadn’t been searched it would have been no stress at all.
Thanks so much for being with us Stellatravels! https://stellatravels.blog
Hopefully we will see you up the road!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
I can’t believe you two are hardened criminals. You seem so nice.
I feel like every blogger I know who has traveled into Canada this summer has been stopped and searched. They must really be cracking down this year. We never had an issue going north, but were always boarded (but not searched) coming south. Either way, it’s a frustrating experience – even more so when they walk off with your stuff for no good reason. I’m glad it didn’t get you down and you had a wonderful (if a bit chilly) time afterwards.
Speaking of which, those gardens are spectacular! So is the mansion. So is everything, really. Beautiful city!
Laura!
Yes, we were also hearing about the unusual amount of searches before we crossed over. We just thought with our shiny new global passes and all … 🙄 They kept mentioning guns. Do we look like gun smugglers? Well, to a federal officer I guess anyone can look like a gun smuggler. But they asked us twice? or three times about guns. It’s hard to look honest with a mask on your face though, and Pico just growled at them so …
The great thing is they didn’t do any damage or make a mess during the search – which they wouldn’t allow us to watch. I should have mentioned that detail in the blog. Every teaspoon was just so. They were nice. Just doing their job.
Wonderful to hear from you! We haven’t had very good connectivity but I want to catch up on Chapter3Travels before we head to Denali!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Hugs to Thor!!!
I’ve been to Butchart Gardens, Empress Hotel High Tea, Craigdarroch Castle, The Parliament Building, and of course, Beacon Hill Park where I proposed to my Bride in a Horse Drawn Carriage. As a Sailor, I also visited some of the fine drinking establishments between Victoria and Esquimalt. I will get back there some day.
What a charming scene. I can almost catch the fragrance of cologne and roses. You were a wise young sailor. Victoria is the perfect storybook place to romance your chosen one. Thanks for sharing, Jody. xoxo
Carmen@LIB
Absolutely beautiful trip. Thx u for sharing. 🌺🤗
Hey Moana!
Thank you so much. We are grateful to have you on board.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Thanks for sharing your adventures! It is great to hear your voice spinning these tales.
Thanks so much for listening, Jeff! I hope you’re having a great summer!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
I was looking forward to this blog and you did not disappoint! What beautiful pictures of such an amazing place! This is so on our bucket list, as is all of Vancouver Island. The gardens and castle look just stunning. Thank you for posting such an incredible blog.
I’m so glad you enjoyed the Victoria adventure, Brenda. It really is just a primer. Victoria has so much to offer. In fairer weather there is even more. You will just love it!!!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Beautiful landscapes, tours and culinary adventures!
I especially enjoyed the video of the slide. Jim’s laugh made me smile on this dreary Monday workday.
Safe travels!
Hey Dean! Thank you for taking a break from work to hang out with us. We always look forward to your comments. Oh yeah, I take Jim’s word for it that the slide is fabulous. I don’t do slides … but they had a net – like a huge spider web stretched across the highest level – to walk on or lie down. The wind moves it a bit so it gives you the sensation of floating on the breeze. But Jim doesn’t do nets, so no photo of me dangling over the inlet like shark bait 🤣
Have a GREAT week!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
This was a very nostalgic trip. We saw most of the places in Victoria as you did, so it was great to also see the places we missed. Thanks again for this new adventure. I would’ve done both the net and the slide! What fun!
Glad you enjoyed the trip, Barbara! These playful architectural marvels on first-nations land is becoming a thing in the States too. I love it!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB