Posted December 4, 2022 – Narrated by Carmen
“This is the Law of the Yukon,
that only the Strong shall thrive;
That surely the Weak shall perish
and only the Fit survive.
Dissolute, damned, despairful,
crippled and palsied and slain.
This is the will of the Yukon –
Lo, how she makes it plain.”
Long dusty roads.
Midnight sun.
Thick wildfire smoke.
Rivers rising to the breaking point.
Cell signal outages. Moose crash hot zones.
Every morning we untangled our weary bones from the mosquito net …
to resume the ongoing discussion, “Should we turn back?”
For me, the question was complicated. True, this was a dangerous and uncomfortable place. But thinking of ways to die – all of us at once; me first, then him; Pico first, me second, him last; him, me, and poor, poor Pico last – this is what I do.
Imagining death by explosion, landslide, tidal wave, asphyxiation and anaphylaxis is a thing I picked up as a child while living in southern Italy on an infant volcano which occasionally burped plumes of lethal gas. I should have turned my talent into a career as a Worst-case Scenario Specialist, but instead I use it to torture myself.
Thinking the horrible doesn’t make me risk-avoidant, it just gives me a tummy ache and annoys those around me. Over the years Jim has adapted to my hair-raising projections which may have saved our lives a few times. The occasional close shave, near miss or narrow escape inspire gratitude for every breath we can grab on this beautiful, blood-thirsty planet.
Here, on the crispy-thin Alcan my powers had purpose.
This is a place where the Circle of Life is not a song, a region where creatures readily sense the sharp edge of their existence.
Heaven and nature kill, and on the Alcan that heavy-duty thought is red-flagged at all times. Here, my quirky skillset had found purpose.
At my request, Jim would have turned the rig south at the first available opportunity whether he wanted to or not. That is a sacred Living in Beauty pact.
There were days on the Alcan when we both felt we were out of our depth. But Jim is an advance guy. For him, problems are like oxygen. We would press on, like a moving target if necessary.
In the end, The Alcan made the decision for us. Turning south was out of the question when the road closed behind us.
It was the talk among the soakers at Liard River Hot Springs. A few days earlier we crossed the very spot where a flash flood busted the road in two.
With water still rising from the Spring thaw, we pulled out of Liard onto the Alcan heading towards Watson Lake.
Watson Lake, Yukon
The Watson Lake Visitor Information Center kindly allowed us to dry camp in their parking lot. With a region-wide cell-service outage (which had nothing at all to do with flood or fire) we needed the complimentary WiFi. Though the signal was weak, we were able to connect with family, attend to the (LIB) blog, and confirm campground reservations up the road.
Meanwhile, we explored the legendary Signpost Forest.
The Visitor Center staff provided supplies and a craft area to design our personal contribution.
The next morning we continued west toward …
Teslin, Yukon
The constant drizzle cleared the stench of wildfire smoke from the north.
Yukon, is a great watery paradise made of a million minor paradises.
The territory is named for the river which flows nearly 2,000 miles through mostly untouched wilderness beginning at the McNeil headwaters and turns west toward the Bering Sea. The Yukon converges with the Tanana and Klondike Rivers and countless tributaries.
These waterways are glories among thousands of impressive lakes, streams and islands that go unnamed. The tease, Yukon: Larger Than Life did not prepare us for the grandeur of this vast wilderness in Canada’s smallest territory.
With river banks overflowing, it was no surprise the charming Village of Teslin was in a state of emergency …
and our campground, under water.
The local authorities allowed us to park in the rest area on the hill.
Coordinates 60.160825, -132.693421 (60°09’39.0″N 132°41’36.3″W)
The view of the village below, backdropped by mountains, changed constantly in the shifting light.
Yukon takes beauty to a whole new level.
We stayed in Teslin for only two days. The dangerous water was not safe for the kayaking we’d planned.
Fortunately, the George Johnston Museum was open.
We didn’t know what to expect but the film, Picturing A People made us feel as if we’d been let in on a secret.
The lovingly preserved archive of art, antiques, garments, handwork and photos told the story of a visionary artist whose dedication to his work continues to influence generations of villagers.
We pulled out of Teslin with more respect for this land, and for the resilience of the community and for the strength of stories shared.
Following the signs …
we detoured south about a hundred miles …
to beautiful …
Atlin, British Columbia
There, we settled in beside the lake …
a short walk from downtown Atlin, where everyone knows your dog’s name.
We came for kayaking …
but there’s more. We visited the little firetruck that didn’t save the town …
and some cool boats.
Neat old stuff like that.
Atlin doesn’t take its long-lost boomtown history too seriously.
This town is progressive.
There’s no cell service or WiFi, but it’s not about turning back the clock.
It’s about making room for peace …
and quiet …
and serenity.
But don’t be surprised if you have a great shopping experience in paradise.
Atlin is probably one of the most beautiful places on earth …
… to meditate, write a poem, draw, or just stare at the tranquil lake.
If we ever go dark, you can find us in Atlin.
Starting early, we followed our detour back to the Alcan.
Wildlife viewing was best on the side-trips.
That morning we left one of the least populated hamlets in British Columbia and entered the territorial capital …
Whitehorse, Yukon
Big town, big stores. We were desperate for tactical gear. Herbal repellants are enough in the lower forty-eight, but not here where the mosquitos train in terrorist camps.
Our first stop in Whitehorse was to explore solutions at The Real Canadian Superstore. The locals set us up …
and invited us to attend the Canada Day parade and festivities!
Swift as the panther in triumph,
fierce as the bear in defeat,
Sired of a bulldog parent, steeled in the furnace heat.
Send me the best of your breeding,
lend me your chosen ones;
Them will I take to my bosom,
them will I call my sons
Special events continued throughout the day.
To live in sub-arctic Whitehorse you must be sturdy and resourceful, but when the going gets tough, Yukoners go to…
Nordic Eclipse Hot Springs – Whitehorse, Yukon
Newly renovated and only a short walk from our campground …
a paradise of relaxation awaited us.
Formerly known as Takhini Hot Springs, famous for the Deep Freeze Hairdo Competition, Eclipse Nordic Hot Springs opened the new facility to the public only two weeks before we arrived.
We were two lucky cheechakos.
Sometimes we had it all to ourselves.
As the region-wide cell-service outage continued, hanging out at Eclipse kept us informed. Word from other soakers was the Klondike Highway north to Dawson City was closed due to fire…
and the Alcan was closed to the south – the way we came.
The store shelves emptied.
We moved camp to the city to wait out the fires and position for a possible evacuation. The Real Canadian Superstore Parking lot provided refuge for two days.
In this stressful situation it was a comfort to be near vital services.
The delay also opened a window of opportunity for a paddle on the Yukon River at Lake Lebarge … yes, that Lake Lebarge.
There are strange things done in the midnight sun
By the men who moil for gold;
The Arctic trails have their secret tales
That would make your blood run cold;
The Northern Lights have seen queer sights,
But the queerest they ever did see
Was that night on the marge of Lake Lebarge
I cremated Sam McGee.
Dawson City, Yukon
The following morning, the Klondike Highway to Dawson City still remained closed. Jim, following a trickle of news reports, calculated that if we reached the closure point – 175 miles up the road – chances were good we’d arrive as the road opened.
For 330 miles we drove through fire …
and blinding smoke…
weaving through torturous detours …
and, we made it!
Like a letter in a bottle, Dawson City is a fragile remnant of a passionate moment in time when these streets were overflowing with gold seekers.
“I had thirty-five cents in my pocket when I arrived. I did not have that much when I left more than two years later. But if I could turn time back I would do it over again for less than that.”
On a picturesque slope overlooking the mud-flat confluence of the Klondike and Yukon rivers, the city was established in the traditional territory of the Tr’ondëk Hwëch’in.
In the summer of 1895 the population held at 200 mostly Hän-speaking people.
The next summer over 40,000 stampeders arrived in the largest mass migration in the shortest period of time in North America.
“And there I strove,
and there I clove through the drift of icy streams;
And there I fought,
and there I sought for the pay-streak of my dreams“
One can only imagine what it was like for indigenous people to see their simple village become – literally, overnight – a cosmopolitan western city with gold-fevered white people usurping their land.
Four years later, as the Klondike Gold Rush wound down, the surviving stampeders dispersed …
leaving the city frozen in time, a fever cooled.
You can’t blame ’em for packing out. Even with a piping hot red-light district it’s cold in them thar’ hills.
Bonton and Company is the best dinner in town.
After dinner and a show we wandered over to the Sourdough Saloon.
A bunch of the boys were whooping it up
in the Malamute saloon;
The kid that handles the music-box
was hitting a jag-time tune;
Back of the bar, in a solo game,
sat Dangerous Dan McGrew,
And watching his luck was his light-o’-love,
the lady that’s known as Lou.
This is an authentic watering hole where patrons are challenged to kiss “the nasty toe,” – an amputated appendage surrendered by some unfortunate Yukoner for this dark duty – lying in state on the bottom of a whisky tumbler.
So Clancy got into Barracks,
and the boys made rather a scene;
And the O. C. called him a hero,
and was nice as a man could be;
But Clancy gazed down his trousers
at the place where his toes had been,
And then he howled like a husky,
and sang in a shaky key:
“When I go back to the old love
that’s true to the finger-tips,
I’ll say: ‘Here’s bushels of gold, love,’
and I’ll kiss my girl on the lips;
‘It’s yours to have and to hold, love.’
It’s the proud, proud boy I’ll be,
When I go back to the old love
that’s waited so long for me.”
For fifty years, you think know a man, then the Spell of The Yukon, or the midnight sun, or the local appellations, or all three, most likely, do their sinister work.
Jim cozied up to the challenge, positioning himself in line, ready to throw his money on the table. Then, like magic, a parable leapt off my tongue snapping my beloved out of it: “Men who play footsies with cannibalism sleep in the dredge.”
Jim cooled his curiosity by watching from the sidelines while I lingered on the porch, my attention focused on keeping that nice supper down.
Next morning we were off to board the George Black, a teenie-tiny ferry which is supposed to navigate our party of three and our 9,000 pound rig across the rapidly rising Klondike during a thunder storm while Jim nurses a hangover.
Pico, him, me. Me, Pico, him …
I have no doubts that the devil grins
as seas of ink I spatter.
Ye Gods forgive my literary sins.
The other kind don’t matter.
Chapters in the “Airstreaming to Alaska” series
- Chapter 1 – San Diego to Malibu
- Sun Outdoors San Diego Bay – Chula Vista, California
- Malibu Beach RV Resort – Malibu, California
- Chapter 2 – Malibu to Morro Bay
- Morro Bay State Park – Morro Bay, California
- Chapter 3 – Morro Bay to Santa Cruz
- Santa Cruz Harbor RV Park – Santa Cruz, California
- Chapter 4 – Santa Cruz to San Francisco
- San Francisco RV Park – Pacifica, California
- Chapter 5 – San Francisco to Eureka
- Vinnie’s Northbay Airstream Repair – Wilton, California
- High Water Brewery (Harvest Host location) – Lodi, California
- Harmony Wynelands (Harvest Host location) – Lodi, California
- Van Ruiten Family Vineyards (Harvest Host location) – Lodi, California
- Four Fools Winery (Harvest Host location) – Rodeo, California
- Lawson’s Landing – Dillon Beach, California
- Mia Bea Wines (Harvest Host location) – Redwood Valley, California
- Johnny’s at the Beach – Eureka, California
- Chapter 6 – The Oregon Coast
- Harris Beach State Park – Brookings, Oregon
- Bay Point Landing Resort – Coos Bay, Oregon
- Blue Herron French Cheese (Harvest Host location) – Tillimook, Oregon
- Seaside RV Resort – Seaside, Oregon
- Chapter 7 – The Strait of Juan de Fuca
- Washington Land Yacht Harbor Airstream Park – Olympia, Washington
- Salt Creek Recreation Area – Port Angeles, Washington
- Chapter 8 – Victoria, British Columbia
- Weir’s Beach RV Resort – Victoria, British Columbia
- Chapter 9 – Victoria to Mackenzie
- Riverside RV Resort – Whistler, British Columbia
- Big Bar Rest Area – Clinton, British Columbia
- Walmart Parking Lot – Prince George, British Columbia
- Alexander MacKenzie Landing – Mackenzie, British Columbia
- Chapter 10 – The Alaska Highway
- Northern Lights RV Park – Dawson Creek, British Columbia
- Former Prophet River State Park – Peace River, British Columbia
- Hay Lake – Fort Liard, Northwest Territories
- Northern Rockies Lodge and RV Park – Muncho Lake, British Columbia
- Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park – Liard River, British Columbia
- Chapter 11 – Yukon
- Watson Lake Visitors Center Parking Lot – Watson Lake, Yukon
- Teslin Rest Area – Teslin, Yukon
- Norsemen RV Park – Atlin, British Columbia
- Hot Springs Campground – Whitehorse, Yukon
- Real Canadian Superstore Parking Lot, Whitehorse, Yukon
- Gold Rush Campground – Dawson City, Yukon
- Chapter 12 – Top of the World Highway to Chicken, Alaska
- Downtown Chicken Cafe and Saloon
- Chapter 13 – Tok to Valdez
- Tundra RV Park – Tok, Alaska
- Gulkana River Rest Stop – Gulkana, Alaska
- Bear Paw RV Park – Valdez, Alaska
- Chapter 14 – Glacier View to Anchorage
- Grand View Cafe and RV Park – Glacier View, Alaska
- Alaska Raceway Park (Harvest Host location) – Palmer, Alaska
- Ship Creek RV Park – Anchorage, Alaska
- Chapter 15 – Kenai Peninsula
- Heritage RV Park – Homer Spit, Alaska
- Marathon RV Campground – Seward, Alaska
- Chapter 16 – Whittier to Talkeetna
- Williwaw Campground – Whittier, Alaska
- Talkeenta Camper Park – Talkeetna, Alaska
- Chapter 17 – Denali
- Riley Creek Campground – Denali National Park, Alaska
- Chapter 18 – North Pole to Chena Hot Springs
- Riverview RV Park – North Pole, Alaska
- Chena Hot Springs Campground – Fairbanks, Alaska
- Chapter 19 – Tok to Haines
- Fast Eddy’s Restaurant Parking Lot – Tok, Alaska
- Gravel Turnout – Beaver Creek, Yukon
- Gravel Turnout – Destruction Bay, Yukon
- Haines Hitch-UP RV Park – Haines, Alaska
- Chapter 20 – South to the Lower 48
- Gravel Turnout – Haines Junction, Yukon
- Teslin Rest Area – Teslin, Yukon
- Jade City Parking Lot – Jade City, British Columbia
- Mehan Lake Rest Area – Bell II, British Columbia
- Fort Telkwa Riverfront RV Park – Telkwa, British Columbia
- Walmart Parking Lot – Prince George, British Columbia
- 100 Mile House Municipal Campground – 100 Mile House, British Columbia
- Mt. Paul Golf Course (Harvest Host location) – Kamloops, British Columbia
- Crowsnest Vineyards (Harvest Host location) – Cawston, British Columbia
- Final Chapter – Lessons Learned
- Philosophy
- Preparation
- Planning
- Mileposts (the book)
- Roads
- Weather
- Camping
- Cash and Currency
- Clothing
- Food
- Wildlife
- Bugs
- Fuel
- Dump Stations and Potable Water
- Pets
- Internet Connectivity
- Hiking
- Cycling
- Kayaking
- Damage
- Dangers
- Canada Border Crossing
- US Border Crossing
- General Observations
- Serendipity
- Final Thoughts
- Our Camp Sites
If you want to see our exact route, click here.
*photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) were taken and copyrighted by Living In Beauty.
What an adventure! You two had every imaginable obstacle but persevered. I especially enjoyed seeing the beautiful scenery and interesting places you visited. Glad you made it back safe and sound!
Dawn! What a compliment from you, former Alaskan who knows the lay of the land and almost died there several times! Those words, “safe & sound” came up in my prayers many times while we were in North Country.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Sounds – and reads – like a challenging trip. We can’t really think or worry too much living this lifestyle, or we’d turn around at every obstacle. Yet, I totally was there, recently.
Yes, about a week ago, Mark and I were ready to pack up Maya, book a return flight to the US, and leave Colombia to pick up our camper in Texas, because it still hadn’t been loaded on a boat to South America. When is enough, enough?
That being said, I’m glad you persevered. The scenery, peace, and wildlife make up for many a bad day. And you found great food and drinks again.
Congrats on that hot springs video! It’s a masterpiece and encourages a visit there. And I have to agree, Atlin looks gorgeous. When I drove through The Yukon, a lifetime ago, I remember being impressed and pleasantly surprised – maybe even more so by that territory than by Alaska. If only it wasn’t so cold and dark in winter!
I’m looking forward to reading the next entry in the series.
Thank you, Liesbet! And congratulations for your recent awards for your book, PLUNGE!
https://livinginbeauty.net/product/plunge/
We are hoping for the safe arrival of your truck to Columbia so you can continue your trip South!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Hi Carmen,
Wow! Thank you so very much for writing this amazing review for Plunge and posting it on your website. I’m humbled and excited and grateful about that. I’m happy you enjoyed reading my book and so appreciate you spreading the word. It was a lovely surprise and makes my day.
We are still waiting – nervously and stressed – for Thirsty Bella. There has been hiccup after hiccup with the shipping process, but we truly hope to be reunited with our camper here in Cartagena in mid-December! Fingers crossed.
I do hope when (or if) you return, you consider the Cassiar Hwy. as a route. We found it delightful, although when we went to Alaska, we had to do the covid rush through route, non stop. We spent 14 months in Alaska, would return in a heartbeat.
Hey Helen!
We exited The North via The Cassiar – though it rained most of the way home – what an amazing highway.
Sounds like 14 months wasn’t long enough for you. I hope you have the chance to return.
Great to hear from you!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Beautiful photos 😍
Hello Jen!
Thanks so much for saying so and for sharing our journey.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
I’m not sure why, but while listening to your post I had the sudden need to put on my winter coat! Much love, stay safe, Brad
Hey BRAD!!!
Wonderful to hear from you! Did I give you a chill? I have a warm hug to make up for it. Hope to see you soon! xoxo
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Love your story and hope our paths cross aga in someday ( perhaps on the night they cremated Sam McGee “
Hey Gary!
Isn’t The Cremation Of Sam McGee the best poem ever!? In the fifth grade I recited a selection from it. It was wonderfully exciting to be there. It’s a lonely lake, still. Only a couple of boats within sight. I sure wouldn’t want to be there, alone, at night. I wish I could share all of the photos – but way too many.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
You guys! Incredible journey!
John! Oh my, yes! We’re still processing all we went through … and still exhausted. We might need a year to truly recover from that trip.
Great to hear from you! Airstream on …
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Never! Never turn back
Hey Gary! Oh, I’m not so sure about “never” … We’ve almost packed out of several gnarly places, but so far, so good. Usually it’s just a matter of taking the time to pull over and have a good meal, a couple of beers and a good night’s sleep and wake up with new goals and a fresh perspective.
Great to hear from you Gary!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Thanks for your beautiful poetic tale of your journey.
Why, thank you, Trish! Such a pleasure to have you with us.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
We took our Rv to Alaska 3 times. The last one in our Airstream. Loved every minute. I’d go again in a heartbeat but husband doesn’t want to drive there again. Reading your blog is like a 4th trip.
Oh my, what a compliment, Carolyn. If we strive for anything, it is to explain the journey in such a way that it can be relived – to our benefit and yours. So, thank you. But there is so much more to this trip that I think we have to write a wrap-up with out-takes. We were shocked by how rough the roads were this year. It was much worse than anything we expected. I hope that if you ever go back the roads are better … though I doubt they will be with the permafrost advancing as it is. Maybe one day we can all go there again in our hydrogen fueled flying cars!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Love all of your stories
Thank you, Marcy! Good friends brighten the journey 💕
xoxox to you and Ted.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Teslin Lake had some phenomenal fishing, but it’s so big it’s like putting a small boat into the ocean. Too much for our 13′ Zodiac. Miss that drive.
Hey Skipper!
I like big water, but not fast water. At that time, the currents were clipping along carrying timber from all the broken Beaver dams.
It’s an amazing drive and with the road closures we had it all to ourselves. Once in a lifetime thing.
Thanks so much for sharing your memories.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Ma and Pa loved the Yukon! I’m so glad you could experience it, too!
Hey Cynthia!
Yukon has its scars – mostly from mining and the timber industry – but compared to every other place I’ve seen it’s as fresh and miraculous as a new born babe – and just as untamed and high maintenance with no beginner’s manual. We drove in when Spring had just exploded. I’d never seen so many shades of green and blue. The fireweed had just gotten started. I like to think of your parents being in that Edenic setting. It probably hasn’t changed much since they were there.
I miss you, but we have plans to drive your way soon!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Looking forward to seeing you! Will you stay where I saw you last time? It was an easy drive for me!! I’ll come visit wherever you end up! Are you eating cookies for Christmas? I have two recipes I found in mom’s old books, ricciatelli and cucidati (fig filled cookies). I’d love to send you some!
Another winning episode from Living in Beauty. Stunning photos enhance the prose by Carmen.
Oh Pete. Thank you. Your timing is perfect 🤗 I needed that ☺️ The check is in the mail 😁
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
What a gorgeous part of the world!
Yes, Nancy! I only wish we could explain it more accurately. Here’s a nice drone video that shows more of the Yukon River near Whitehorse:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RGjhxW7L3s
I’d like to spend an entire summer around Whitehorse.
Miss you! xoxo
Carmen@LIB
Quite the journey! Thanks for sharing! Hope you two are someplace warm & south for the winter…
Hey David! The door is open, the awning is out and Pico is taking a sunbath. There were days in Alaska when I was dreaming of this day, and here it is.
☀️🏝️🌵
Bliss.
Great to hear from you! xoxo to you and Kathy 💕
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Oh Carmen, my Carmen! You tell a good tale, your rhythm is beautiful and you know how to sell!! 😆 Any travel advertising agency would do well to scarf y’all up!! Your pictures tell stories of their own and are, as always, breathtakingly beautiful and expose the majesty that I never knew was there!! I will confess, as I was coming out of my dream state of mind, that you had me laughing out loud at your last monotone line!!! I love you my friend, give Jim a big hug!!
Margie 👯♂️
Oh, you and me – me and you. Here comes trouble! Of course you laughed. We get each other when no one else does. Pink rings forever!!!
xoxo,
Carmen
I love your blog! It’s like taking a beautiful vacation, while sitting in the comforts of home. Based on the comments, you’ve touched many people through this journey. What an adventure! Doug and I hope you have a safe, happy, and joyous Christmas!
Laura 💕
Oh, how we miss you two! What fun to hang out in Kamloops!
I’m sure the scenery on the lake is glistening white right now. We wish you every joy and peace of the Christmas season. Tonight we will light a fire on the beach and toast you from the south. Cheers, Dear Friends.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen & Jim
Love your stories. We crossed the Canadian border August 21. Drove to Dawson Creek and the Alcan into Alaska. We only spent 6 days in Alaska and decided it was time to travel south – the weather was turning and several places were closing for the season. But all in all it was a fast trip but worth the adventure. Now we can say ‘been there done that’. Milepost it a great book – everyone taking the trip should get one. Did you know Seattle to Anchorage is 2260 miles and Seattle to New Orleans is 2573 miles. Makes it seem not so far. Another trivia note – If you cut Alaska in half it would be the 1st and 2nd largest state with Texas being the third = it is huge!
Hey Sheryl!
Thank you for the fun and fascinating facts. I guess, the Gulf Coast of Louisiana and The Florida Keys, South Texas and San Diego are remote regions to Yuconers. The difference would be the amount of vehicles arriving to those areas from Seattle without broken axles, blown tires and windshields – and not having to drive 5-10 mph for days in a row to avoid potholes big enough to swallow a VW Bug. Though that could change in the future as the highways in the Gulf Region are getting worse every year.
So glad you got Alaska under your belt. We stayed there for almost 60 days and I think it didn’t rain on about four of them. At least we were better off than the tourists on the cruise ships that never saw a clear sky.
We used the Milepost and, for the most part, we found it useful. For a commercial enterprise it was helpful. What Milepost tells you is great but sometimes what they don’t tell you is what you need to know, such as, August is a notoriously rainy month. We endorse Milepost, maybe even as a primary source, but it’s good to research multiple perspectives to fill in the gaps of information.
We just feel that the main thing is to GO. If you can afford the time and expense to drive overland to Alaska, DO IT.
https://www.bbc.com/travel/article/20220210-the-alaska-highway-a-subarctic-road-to-prevent-invasion
… because these roads have an expiration date.
https://insideclimatenews.org/news/21122021/alaska-dalton-highway-trans-alaska-pipeline-cilmate-change/
Time’s a’wastin!
Thanks so much, Sheryl, for sharing your experience in The Great North!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
“Atlin is probably one of the most beautiful places on earth.” You can say that again! Those snow capped mountains behind the lake are just spectacular!
Alaska certainly put you guys through the ringer, but I’m so happy to see that you persevered and kept going. I know those feelings of fear well, and of course, it’s easy to say these things after the fact when you know things have turned out well, but still… it’s true – it’s worth it to push through and keep going and trust that things will work out.
Laura,
You know the lay of the land well.
There’s no “sure thing” about RVing through a disaster zone. You feel that you are equipped like a bug-out specialist but you’re still dependent on the integrity of the roads. In the US, we’re spoiled because functional roads are the norm. Jim and I pressed on because we trusted in the tried-and-true scenario of dependable roads and maintenance. But let me just say, our trust in the availability of safe and sane infrastructure is beginning to wane – but not just in remote places. Roads are crazy-expensive to maintain and I am expecting to see more closures in the future – especially along coastal, desert and mountain routes.
All said, we had a great time. It truly was an amazing trip. We’re happy (and a bit surprised) to have made it home safely and with no major damage to ourselves or our rig. We are a bit old for a North Country adventure, I think. I wish we’d done it when we were younger. And, yes, we would live in Atlin if we could, but we would need to have a plane and know how to fly it. The small airports along the Alcan are wonderful alternative.
Great to hear from you, Laura! (Shoot. It’s just great to be alive!) We love reading your posts about your transition from RVing in your Tiffin to now living in Portugal! We wish you the best in this new chapter at Chapter3Travels!
https://www.chapter3travels.com/about-us/
Hugs to Thor 💕🐾 Woof!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
I agree with you 100% about the safety of our current infrastructure. I’m sitting here in Lisbon in another crazy rainstorm. Last night, there was widespread flooding and one person was killed. Last month there was widespread flooding that included a tornado. When we were in California in 2021, we had to await the rebuilding (again) of the PCH after (yet another) mudslide washout. And everything on your side of the ocean and mine is on fire every summer. Climate change is here and I don’t think anyone is ready for it. It’s definitely something we need to think about in our daily lives and when we make choices about where and how to live.
Stay safe, you guys!
XOXO
I agree, Laura. Every time Jim and I find a great place where we think we could live year-round we loose all enthusiasm after a quick inspection of the climate-risks. Charleston, Savannah, New Orleans … Now, we are only content to live in those dream-retirement places in a house equipped with good tires and a hitch – prepared for a same-day emergency get-away. Because camping is usually only zoned in eco-sensitive areas in fire-buffer and flood zones, we’ve had to skedaddle several times.
But even when we were living in houses we had to deal with wildfires (our house in Spring Valley was once made into an emergency fire station with several neighbors houses burning across the street) and we had to spend crazy money on air-filters, new house paint (due to smoke from distant wildfires), fire-retardant roofing, annual brush removal … Depending on where you live the responsibility of home-ownership can be overwhelming.
Even though most American cities seem to be at war with RV’s and go out of their way to make ridiculous laws about where we can park our small smart homes, we are happy to live this way.
Ok, I will stop preaching to the choir 😜
Safe & Happy Travels & Hugs to Thor!
Carmen@LIB
Thanks for continuing to share your adventures with us.
John, it is our pleasure. We only write to journal our adventures and share with those who have an interest. It makes us happy that you are a part of our journey.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
As always an entertaining and exhilarating read. I would’ve headed south at the first inkling of trouble. Do NOT possess Jim’s steely resolve.
You are a wordsmith my darling C
Keep it up
Hey Funniest Man In San Diego AKA San Diego’s Best Santa 🎅🏻
No, you don’t have Jim’s steely resolve, but you know how to rock those Rudolf-poop earrings 𐂂
Merry Christmas! Make children happy and we will see you in the rope line soon. I have a very long list to go over with you 🎁
xoxo to you and the Mrs. 🤶🏻
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
I tensed with fear, I relaxed with a sigh, a glorious read, spellbound was I.
Yes, Mickie, the situation got sticky.
But the cause is easy to explain.
Think, bison and moose and bears running loose
along a barely paved road in the rain.
But with Beauty and The Beast
the odds were right sweet.
We made it home with the whole enchilada
Credit goes to you and our followers too
For the good vibes, the prayers and the love.
xoxo,
Carmen
A Bucket List Trip for Certain!
Your trip was EXTRA Challenging- but what an ADVENTURE!
Yes it was Dean! We had to keep reminding ourselves that The Alcan is the reason why only 5% of tourists overland to Alaska. And what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, right? 😜
Always great to hear from you, Dean! I hope you are having a fabulous holiday season 🥂
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
I’m enjoying your Alaska trip blogs!
Hey Twosna Travels!
Thanks for following. Going to Alaska was almost too much to process in the moment, so reliving the experience is still exciting for us! Sometimes we can’t believe we really did this stuff! One mile at a time we got through.
Wonderful to have you with us!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
41 years ago I celebrated my 25th birthday in Whitehorse. Flying there was quite an adventure. Now, as an Airstream owner, it’s time to return on a much-anticipated Alcan journey. Love following your blog.
Hey David!
That would be an epic return trip. Whitehorse is a unique village. We loved the hometown vibe, fresh air, creativity, history and diversity. There is a wonderful visitor center and an impressive library as well – both are great for concierge services. They have concerts and arts events in the concourse area. We didn’t see a fraction of what Whitehourse has to offer in the summer, but we saw enough to know that we’d like to go back someday and spend the fair months.
Thanks for being with us, David!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Another amazing blog from our favorite bloggers. You’ve settled a long standing dispute between Debbie and me. I keep wanting to go to Alaska. Debbie says we will get stranded with a broken down tow vehicle and Airstream. She wins. I think we will take a cruise to see Alaska. We hope to see the two of you this spring or summer.
Frank!!! 💕 It’s an honor to settle something … somewhere, but please keep the conversation open about how to see Alaska.
We feel that just cruising is probably the worst way to experience Alaska because the ships move too fast through the ports. On low visibility days there won’t be much to see. We felt sorry for the cruise passengers when the glaciers were socked in with fog. When you go on your own terms you can stay as long as you like, wait for the weather to clear, or just say forget it and drive inland.
The best passage to Alaska is probably by private sea plane. Lake-hopping up and down the AlCan would be spectacular. We met a couple in Mesa who did exactly that. The problem is, you have to be a pilot and own or lease a seaplane.
My ideal way to see Alaska is to take Beauty & The Beast to Whitehorse in the Spring. When the melt starts, we leave the rig in a good campground and take a scenic flight up to Anchorage. In Anchorage we catch a coastal Alaska cruise. Then, back in Anchorage, we rent an RV to explore the interior at our leisure and revisit any port cities we missed due to weather. We’d end the trip with a good long week or two exploring the Fairbanks area. When we’ve had our fill of the Aurora Borealis, we catch a flight to Whitehorse, retrieve the rig and skedaddle south before the first snow.
Believe me, we’re still processing that drive and all the bad things that could have happened. We saw a few RV’s abandoned along the side of the road, but we got through it fine without damage. In every campground several RVers, but not most, were having service done on broken axles and windshields and almost everyone had so much interior damage that they were just limping along. In Valdez we saw a moose crashed RV being towed from the highway.
All of this was quite sobering. Seeing with our own eyes what could happen made us even more alert and careful. We went very slow. So what? Going slow insures that you will see more wildlife and views. We had leisurely lunches overlooking scenery so beautiful it looked fictional. With the late sunsets we were never in a hurry to beat the light. There’s no need to rush – ever. There’s nothing to rush toward. So, if you take your time, make sure your rig is in the best condition ever, have a spare or two aboard (we never needed ours) then you’re good to go.
We saw many people traveling in groups. That is something to consider but we like traveling at our own pace. We don’t want to be pushed or slow someone else down. We like to sleep late or rise early when we want. When we saw a pull-off we liked, we took it. If we were hungry or wanted a bio break, we stopped and just enjoyed the countryside.
Also, through In-Reach we were constantly communicating our GPS coordinates to our son and my dad. We had several emergency plans. We kept our Bug-Out Bags ready in case we had to unhitch Beauty and evacuate in The Beast.
There is much think through before going to Alaska, but there’s no reason not to go and you don’t want to miss British Columbia and The Yukon!
We can’t wait to see you two next year!
Hugs to Debbie💕
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Carmen, Thank you so much for the tips. We will carefully consider everything that you said. I sure hope we can reconnect this coming year!