Food, Music and Enlightenment
The Civil Rights Trail Chapters
Join us in this seven-part series as we share our once-in-a-lifetime adventure.
- Chapter One: Introduction
- Chapter Two: Emmett Till
- Chapter Three: Juke Joint Festival – Clarksdale, Mississippi
- Chapter Four: Mound Bayou – Mississippi
- Chapter Five: New Orleans
- Chapter Six: Montgomery, Alabama – The Epicenter of The Movement
- Chapter Seven: Final Thoughts
Posted January 18, 2024 – Narrated by Carmen
“Love is such a powerful force.”
Every year of Living in Beauty is memorable and different.

Some years are spectacular and adventurous from start to finish.

Other years are simply focused on relaxing color and scenery,

or romance and celebration.

Spring, Summer, and Autumn ’23 on The Civil Rights Trail with side trips through The Great Smoky Mountains and The Blue Ridge was definitely our happiest year on the road.
I understand if you think I misspoke. How on earth can nine months of immersion into the story of a people’s bloody struggle to restore and maintain their lives, dignity, faith, and patriotism, against all odds, be a happy thing?

Honestly, we’re still trying to figure that out.
Living in the present is our usual style. Only seldom do we go to museums. The Civil Rights Trail gave us our first taste of history-tourism and we’re hooked.

We were children in the 50’s and 60’s during the historic years of The Movement, and at the time – as white military kids growing up in a multi-racial community in California – we had little exposure, knowledge or concern (to be honest) about Americans who suffer from the effects of racism, injustice and exploitation.
Like many Americans our age, the landmark 1977 mini-series Roots saved us from almost complete ignorance about slavery. During that time, when we were working minimum wage jobs, President Jimmy Carter raised our awareness about Civil Rights and the slow incremental nature of democracy.

The next phase of our education about Civil Rights began when we entered the University of Living in Beauty, The Road Campus.




On The Civil Rights Trail we learned about good people – old and young, of every color and from all religious affiliations – who tested, proved, and continue to preserve the work of non-violent passive resistance.

Sure, we could have just read a book …

but covering eight states and thousands of miles in our usual slow 4-3-2 style …

we quickly discovered that the Civil Rights Trail is many things.
It’s a Scenic Trail.







And, it’s a Music Trail
















It’s also a Food Trail.










And, most importantly, it’s a Truth Trail.






From Ground 0 we were enlightened by the facts concerning violence committed by American citizens against American citizens. These historic moments were presented most professionally, artistically and lovingly.




Active listening gave us a sense of belonging and healing.

If we were old folks, we’d say, “It was a balm.”

Now we can see America’s path more clearly and understand how civil rights and the democratic process defines every aspect of what it means to be an American.

The Civil Rights trail, was time well spent.

We were happy to be there and are still glowing with memories we are eager to share.

The Bill of Rights. The Civil War. Jim Crow. This important American history holds the center of gravity in The Deep South.

Yet no museum, historical film or classic southern novel can fully capture the atmosphere of this region where the elderly are still seen and loved; where the front porch is not mere ornamentation but an institution of storytelling, music, and homemade ice-cream.

The charm of the South is no myth. Even if a town’s population peaks at 20 – the hair salon will find a way. Formal wear window displays adorn nearly every corner of downtown. Honey, if you have a mind to wear a ball gown to the office you will receive nothing but compliments, and anyone rude enough to ask “What’s the occasion?’ will be bustled into the copy room for a discrete talking-to.

Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. in his Letter From A Birmingham Jail called this region his “beloved Southland” because those familiar with The Deep South know there’s so much here to love.

I’m always crushing on that wink-and-a-smile Southern humor, dryer than a Walmart on a Sunday morning.

And I adore the shameless dusk when gardenia perfume belly-dances on the swamp’s sultry breath while the old oaks sway their gray beards and the moon rises over the bayou as if Earth is having an out-of-body experience.

Then, the fireflies, those warriors of reality, scrimmage from the deep recesses of the woods to slay every scrap of good sense your mama gave you.

In the South there’s magic in the air.

In fact, the moment Jim and I cross the Mississippi River we experience a physical metamorphosis. First, our skin softens. It’s the moisture. That Gulf Stream hydration is like a free 24-hour facial.

Second, our speech changes. We say things like “I reckon they’re over yonder fixin’ to have supper.”

Third, we sprout a set of good manners. It’s all please n’ thank you and yes Ma’am n’ no Sir. Then we shift into slo-mo – stop to hold doors for strangers; smile and make eye-contact.

When the small talk wears us out we hunt down a meat-and-three where (praise-the-Lord) mac and cheese is a vegetable and order a plate lunch with a side of debris or gumbo. Then, quick as you can say Crisco we gain twenty pounds. Thus, our Southern transition is complete.

Living in Beauty is an education. Jim and I relish the opportunity to see places we’ve never been, sample the regional cuisine, toast with the local hooch and dig on the vibe, the views, the architecture and then come here and blab about it.

The Civil Rights Trail delivered all those consumer experiences and more even as we stood in awe before the undeniable truth of America’s original sin.

“What I would like understood as a black American is that black Americans loved and had faith in this country even when this country didn’t love and have faith in them, and that’s our legacy.”

The promise of a more perfect union called us to the Civil Rights Trail to be listeners – students of destiny – to tool-up from an abundance of love and join America’s collective journey toward human rights for all.


If you want to see the exact route we travel, click here.
*photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) were taken and copyrighted by Living In Beauty.
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Beautiful description.
Thank you! So happy to have you here.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Great! Greetings from Spain
Marion & Hartmut! Wonderful to hear from our international nomadic friends, and to know that you are safe. Spain! How fortunate for you. I know the bread is better there than in the U.S. 😊 Dig in and enjoy!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
That’s the best post you’ve written. So much heart and revelation in this part of your journey. I really envy the eye opening experiences you had.
I have such a love-hate relationship with the South myself. Summers in East Tennessee meant cousins, creeks, porch swings, fried okra, and loving people everywhere. I’d pick up my family’s accent in about five days, get chigger bites and red clay stains on my shorts and blend in with my laughing relatives. It wasn’t until I was a teenager that I learned about the dark, hateful side of Southern culture. Some of those friendly laps I sat on belonged to members of the KKK. Systemic de-humanization is so intrinsic to Southern life that I despair. I don’t know that I’d be welcome there now. I’ve had to block several of my cousins because of habitual hate speech. It’s heartbreaking, and I admire that you-all had the courage to look the contradictions right in the eye.
I can’t wait for the next installments.
Well said.
Hey Morgan! I’m so happy to hear from you today. I’ve been thinking about you and our possible connection through the Vance line. I do feel like we could be cousins. In Asheville this summer we noticed that the Vance Monument was demoed (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vance_Monument).
You would love the Civil Rights Tour! It made me love the south even more because I can truly see the way out of that despair you mention – it’s a narrow way, but it’s there and millions of southerners are working together to keep it open, but they need a constant stream of help from each new generation. It’s a matter of ongoing education.
Love you, Cuz!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Very nice writing. Beautiful pictures.
Why, thank you, Dingo Girl for the kind encouragement!
Welcome and Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Wonderfully written and experienced. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you 4000 Rivets!
Oh, we Love your beautiful blog! https://4000rivets.blogspot.com
What an honor to have you with us!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Very cool! We have been to some of those sites, and even had a place in Walland for a while. We were never aware of a civil rights connection. We had an old tannery workers house on 3 Alley (now Cricket Lane). We look forward to seeing more from you!
Don and Beth
Hey Don & Beth!
Tennessee has several sites, but I think it was a pass-through between stops. Thank you so much for following our journey. It means so much.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Love this. I did a similar, though few miles, Civil Rights tour a few years ago. It was so inspiring to walk in the places where history was made – the good, the bad, and the ugly. The dissonance of the modern South where Civil War statutes overshadow the Civil Rights locations was unsettling. Montgomery was a trippy place. I was forever changed by the Legacy Museum and Memorial. Thank you for sharing your experience with your vast audience. It makes a difference!
Robyn!
Sounds like you did it right!
The Legacy Museum and Memorial was life-changing for us too. It is beautifully curated but does not hold back. The way they allow you to discover and acknowledge the Elephant in the Room with only the facts without editorializing is convicting. If you can only go to one museum The Legacy is the one we would recommend – but each museum taught us something we didn’t know.
Thank you for joining us on The Civil Rights tour!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
This was very heart warming and encouraging. Gives you a glimpse of sunlight in our country that seems filled with so much negative. Makes me want to meet each one of these people and get to know them. Thanks for exposing us to them and the Civil Rights Story. Well done! ❤️
Julia! Thank you for being with us! Yes, the Civil Rights Trail is a tonic in these divisive times. It returns you to the simple roots of what it means to be a citizen in this great country. Certainly there are flaws, but if we pass the tools along, each new generation will be equipped to make corrections.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Well done!
Why, thank you! 😌 Wonderful to have you with us!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Fantastic! So many amazing places visited. Can’t wait to see more!
Christina! So happy you and Ben are following. We learned so much and saw so many places we’d have probably never visited otherwise and that would have been our loss. It would have been a shame to miss the Queen Cities.
xoxo
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Ohhhh we’ll be following along for as long as y’all are on the road! 🩵
I loved every heart-stirring word, every photo, every emotion, every fact and the increase in my historical education. It was like a novel I couldn’t put down. Wow! I know Oklahoma is not considered the “real south” but you brought back memories of stories I heard sitting at the feet of my mother, a wise women who would not tolerate ill treatment of any human being. THIS BLOG IS AWESOME!
PS love you two, Mickie Geck
Mickie 💕 I always look forward to your comment because it makes me feel like, 🤩
Oklahoma … that’s right. It is the southern state that isn’t really southern. We need to spend more time there. In the book store days we went to Tulsa annually on business but at the time I was completely unaware of The Tulsa Massacre of 1917. Someday soon we plan to go back to visit Greenwood Rising.
https://www.greenwoodrising.org/okbh
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ca7lI6wT9MI
Your mother sounds like a wonderful person, a soldier of love just like you. xoxo
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Wow! So looking forward to this series. You two are a real inspiration and we can’t wait for my husband’s retirement in Fall of 2025 so we can follow your path. The only question will be: which destination do we choose first 😊
Lilia! That first year any destination you choose will be perfect. Like most new RVers we headed straight for the monument in South Dakota where we were slammed with hail causing $30,000 in damage. Totaled by the insurance company, we bought Beauty back with a “salvage” title and invested to outfit her for off-grid adventuring. If not for the hail damage we might have been more timid and chosen a beautiful but far less adventurous path – which is all to say that whatever you decide to do it will all be wonderful, a little scary and completely amazing and oh my, the stories you will have!
Thank you so much for being with us, Lilia! Onward!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
I too grew up white in an Army family during the 50s and 60s, oblivious to the reality of life as a minority in the USA; especially Blacks. My high school history gave short shrift to the plight of slaves and somehow justified the Jim Crow south. Thank you for taking this on. Thank you for shining a light into some dark corners of history and present day USA. Thanks for the hope that, “…times, they are a changing.”
Hey Robert! How wonderful to hear from you again! I think we’re about the same age and have similar experiences. I was born in Alabama but my family moved frequently (22 schools between 1st and 12th grades). Jim (also born to southern parents) and I both received a very light education about the North American Slave Trade and Jim Crow was almost presented in the history books with a tone of nostalgia. Fortunately, like you, we were living a more desegregated lifestyle compared to most American kids – we were that “something” was going on but couldn’t quite identify it – The Elephant In The Room syndrome, I suppose.
Thank you for joining us on the Civil Rights Trail!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Touching, poignant, typical of LIB style. Thank you, dear ones, for vicariously bringing your readers (fans) along on your valuable adventures.
Dear Eva, thank you for being on this traveling tangent with us for all of these years. We feel your love, prayers and laughs.
xoxo
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
As a Tar Heel born and a Tar Heel bred, I am truly a son of the south and you have done us justice. Thank you! This post reminded me of my granny’s wood cook stove full of corn bread and biscuits, slathered with real, fresh made butter from the cow she milked every day. It also refreshed the transition over my lifetime from an ignorant, prejudiced hick to an educated, caring neighbor to all, regardless of race, creed or color. From Asheville, NC, my deepest thanks. Y’all come see us now, ya hear? Fred Racey
Hey Fred!
Are you sure we’re not cousins because I have some of those same memories ☺️ I remember pestering my grandmother to let me have go at the churn and her laughing when I gave up in about ten seconds.
Holding onto the past is futile, but it’s so important to remember every detail so you can take the good stuff and throw out the bad. It’s a tedious job, but important work for every generation.
I haven’t encountered many “ignorant prejudiced hicks” in the South but there are enough posers trying to out-hick each other that it sometimes casts the impression of a surplus. MLK was more concerned about White Moderates – those who are so offended by unlawful peaceful protest that they would rather allow racism to continue until it naturally fades away – and they are the largest group, living everywhere in every state.
BTW: We ❤️ North Carolina. If Jim would only join me I would happily live on Okracoke Island for the remainder of my days. Ah well, at least my heart can ferry over there anytime day or night.
You just might see us round your place sometime. Keep an eye out.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Love this! What an adventure. I really loved seeing pictures from my hometown, Austin.
Hey Nancy! We love Austin ❤️. We’re hoping to go through again this year on our way back west. If your ears are itchin’ that’s cause we’ve talkin’ about you. We’re so proud to know you. You are one of the Greats.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Thank you for this wonderful glimpse into The Civil Rights Trail, surely a destination in itself for multiple months. Your stunning photos and well-written article makes me want to do this route one day, slowly and meticulously, savoring the food along the way and educating myself more about this part of America’s history.
Liesbet!
I know you would enjoy the Southern Black Belt. It encapsulates the best of American art, music, cuisine and culture. The economy of the region still suffers greatly from the effects of The Civil War, Jim Crow segregation and political corruption, but strides are being made. It’s an exciting time as a reversal of The Great Migration is in progress.
https://www.brookings.edu/articles/a-new-great-migration-is-bringing-black-americans-back-to-the-south/
I suggest you arrive in early Spring to see the wild wisteria and dogwood bloom, then through the summer – with the azalea, jonquils, gardenia, pom-pom, magnolia and the vegetable gardens bursting with fresh tomatoes, greens, peas, cabbages and melons – and stay through fall harvest time. Winters can be warm. Last year the weather was in the 80’s on the Gulf of Alabama – warmer than San Diego. This year it’s as cold as Seattle, WA.
You two look healthy and seem to be staying warm in Bolivia! Thank you so much for sharing your adventures on Roaming About!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Looks like a trip of a lifetime!! I so appreciate your curiosity and willingness to learn of things I’ve gone thru my whole life, yet I’ve been usually under pressure to stay quiet about. I did a mini tour of this in December, just before I purchased my Airstream. I hit museums, but also spent as much time around live music as I possibly could with my tight schedule. I can’t wait to head back again, towing Ariel, my 2021 23′ Globetrotter!!!
Hey Del!
You and your new Globetrotter are in for a treat. The camping along The Civil Rights Trail is wonderful. There are some wonderful campgrounds which we will share in this series and many free boon-docking options at or near some of the more remote museums.
We’re too old to keep quiet about things that are important to us 🤭 It’s our aim to be true to our experience while offering helpful tips to RVers who plan to visit these areas.
Safe & Happy Travels to you and Ariel!
Carmen@LIB
Thank you for sharing! So many great photos (love the food but it’s a celiac’s nightmare🥲) Such interesting historical sites! I agree being a military kid made us pretty unaware of racism and the fight for civil rights. I read the book Roots in the 10th grade and suddenly got it.
Hey Dawn!
You are correct about the lack of celiac-friendly options, but we were surprised to see how many restaurants had wonderful and tasty Southern-style vegan and vegetarian offerings.
Roots by Alex Haley (inspired by The African by Harold Courlander) was a gift.
See you soon! xoxo
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Once again you’ve proved you have found your calling. Wonderful post.
Thank you, Bill! 😊
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
J&C: Perhaps your best “blab” yet. Excellent, beautifully written, chapter on some of the best of Americana and most significant of America’s (tragic) history. We’ll anxiously await the next chapters.
Hey Joe! Last year when we were all in Austin you and the new 🤫 Airstream friends you introduced us to gave us some fabulous advice as we began our launch onto The Civil Rights Trail. It made all the difference. Thanks to you and Ronnie for your encouragement. Kiss the pups for me 💕🐾💕🐾
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
This is so inspiring and beautifully written and photographed. We, too, were deeply moved by the Legacy Museum in Montgomery and the Civil Rights Museum in Memphis. We visited them several years apart, and both made me realize that no matter how liberal, egalitarian, and antiracist I believe myself to be, there is always room to deepen my understanding, compassion, and dedication to right action. Love your photos of the people you met along the way!
Hey Laurel! Wonderful to hear from you!
I wish we been able to attend Freedom Monument Sculpture Park on the Alabama River but it was not opened when we were there. We plan to see it when we return in a year or two.
https://legacysites.eji.org/about/monument/?fbclid=IwAR0cKAMrcUIc-iFcDNkacVcBamSUj5l6-4Tvwx6hBSnh9EQzgsKMqDHGTS8
Yes! I hear you. We are all on a journey. Personal growth is a life-long endeavor. In my faith we are called to emulate the example of a great teacher who fell to his knees and washed his students feet. These days, listening is a service we can all perform and The Civil Rights Trail honors that call with such grace.
Thank you for being on this journey with us Laurel!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Wow! Leave it to the two of you and your LIB podcast/blog to do such a wonderful and beautiful job documenting your travels and reflections regarding your adventures in the South. As a retired university social work educator from the mid-south that loves to travel and camp, I really enjoy learning the culture and history of the places where we travel with many trips to southern locations. I am not a Civil War aficionado, but have developed a greater appreciation of the impact of the Civil War on our country by camping in state parks, etc. in the South. I appreciate and admire you combining your love for travel and adventure and examining our checkered history of civil rights and our slow progress. I would love to follow in your tire paths with our own exploration of this topic and its destinations.
As always, thank you for a wonderful post.
BTW, I am so inspired by the many others that have commented on this topic. After a morning of news, pursuing the responses to your post have been refreshing and inspiring.
Take care,
Dean
Hey Dean!
Your Beloved South is my Beloved South 😊
I agree with you the history here is dense, rich and mysterious – but mysterious only due to the generations who have abandoned this region in the dust of Civil War history. Jim and I are fascinated by the Choctaw, Cherokee and Chickasaw history, the paleo history of the Mound Builders and the ancient Natchez Trace. The south is where American cuisine originated from mostly African and South American culture which also influences the world-famous music and celebrated literature which defines the American Identity even as most citizens avoid actual contact with this region of the country. I think our nation suffers a bit from Elephant in The Room syndrome which, as you say, is a symptom of the ongoing fallout of the Civil War.
Isn’t travel a wonderful distraction! I think if everyone spent more time traveling to other states and listening to the stories and experiencing all of the unique cultures here we would all be a better place.
Thank you so much for being with us, Dean.
Safe & Happy Travels!
Hey Jude! (Thank you, I’ve always wanted to say that 😊) Well, as you know, “the revolution will not be televised.” Though we only covered about 8 states the Civil Rights Trail connects 14 states and is the best kept secret for travelers who are looking for big experiences with a small profile and looking to celebrate everything that is right about America.
https://civilrightstrail.com
See you out there! Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB
Such a beautiful and insightful article!
Thank you!
What a great reminder that the world doesn’t begin and end in our home towns.
If we are curious, we can hit the road and see what is out there.
If we are smart, we travel slowly enough to absorb our destinations like you do.
Hey Dean! These are our Going Days. We keep in mind that someday these will be our “Good ol’ Going Days” so we try to make the most of them. There are many more tours – Southern Writers, Civil War, and Natchez Trace, Blues Trail … – which we would also like to focus on someday but The Civil Rights Trail made it to the top of our list. We hope – in these next few posts – to be able to explain why.
Thank you for being with us!
Safe & Happy Travels!
Carmen@LIB