Civil Rights Trail – Chapter One: Introduction

Food, Music and Enlightenment

The Civil Rights Trail Chapters

Join us in this seven-part series as we share our once-in-a-lifetime adventure.

Posted January 18, 2024 – Narrated by Carmen
To listen to the podcast, click the play button

“Love is such a powerful force.”

Every year of Living in Beauty is memorable and different.

Emmett Till Interpretive Center - Glendora, Mississippi
Emmett Till Historic Intrepid Center – Glendora, Mississippi

Some years are spectacular and adventurous from start to finish.

‎⁨Pisgah National Forest⁩ near ⁨Weaverville⁩, ⁨Tennessee
‎⁨Pisgah National Forest⁩ near ⁨Weaverville⁩, ⁨Tennessee

Other years are simply focused on relaxing color and scenery,

Bayou Segnette State Park - ‎⁨Westwego⁩, ⁨Louisiana⁩
Bayou Segnette State Park – ‎⁨Westwego⁩, ⁨Louisiana⁩

or romance and celebration.

Dollywood, Tennessee

Spring, Summer, and Autumn ’23 on The Civil Rights Trail with side trips through The Great Smoky Mountains and The Blue Ridge was definitely our happiest year on the road.

I understand if you think I misspoke. How on earth can nine months of immersion into the story of a people’s bloody struggle to restore and maintain their lives, dignity, faith, and patriotism, against all odds, be a happy thing?

Martin Luther King, Jr's birth home - Atlanta, Georgia
Martin Luther King, Jr’s birth home – Atlanta, Georgia

Honestly, we’re still trying to figure that out.

Living in the present is our usual style. Only seldom do we go to museums. The Civil Rights Trail gave us our first taste of history-tourism and we’re hooked.

Juke Joint Festival – Clarksdale, Mississippi

We were children in the 50’s and 60’s during the historic years of The Movement, and at the time – as white military kids growing up in a multi-racial community in California – we had little exposure, knowledge or concern (to be honest) about Americans who suffer from the effects of racism, injustice and exploitation.

Like many Americans our age, the landmark 1977 mini-series Roots saved us from almost complete ignorance about slavery. During that time, when we were working minimum wage jobs, President Jimmy Carter raised our awareness about Civil Rights and the slow incremental nature of democracy.

Mosaic at the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum
Mosaic at the Jimmy Carter Presidential Library and Museum

The next phase of our education about Civil Rights began when we entered the University of Living in Beauty, The Road Campus.

On The Civil Rights Trail we learned about good people – old and young, of every color and from all religious affiliations – who tested, proved, and continue to preserve the work of non-violent passive resistance.

Rosa Parks Library and Museum - Montgomery, Alabama
Rosa Parks Library and Museum – Montgomery, Alabama

Sure, we could have just read a book …

‎⁨Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historical Park⁩, ⁨Atlanta⁩, ⁨Georgia⁩
Gandhi Statue at the ‎⁨Martin Luther King, Jr. National Historical Park⁩, ⁨Atlanta⁩, ⁨Georgia⁩

but covering eight states and thousands of miles in our usual slow 4-3-2 style

Conahatta, Mississippi

we quickly discovered that the Civil Rights Trail is many things.

It’s a Scenic Trail.

Clarksdale⁩, ⁨Mississippi⁩
Cotton fields near ‎⁨Clarksdale⁩, ⁨Mississippi⁩
Stone Plantation - Montgomery, Alabama
Stone Plantation – Montgomery, Alabama
Walland⁩, ⁨Tennessee
‎⁨Walland⁩, ⁨Tennessee
Decatur⁩, ⁨Mississippi⁩
‎⁨Decatur⁩, ⁨Mississippi⁩
Stone Mountain - Atlanta, Georgia
Stone Mountain – Atlanta, Georgia
McKinney Falls - Austin, Texas
McKinney Falls – Austin, Texas
West Memphis, Illinois
West Memphis, Illinois

And, it’s a Music Trail

King Biscuit Blues Festival - ‎⁨Helena, ⁨Arkansas⁩
King Biscuit Blues Festival – ‎⁨Helena, ⁨Arkansas⁩
Mandeville⁩, ⁨Louisiana⁩
‎⁨Mandeville⁩, ⁨Louisiana⁩
King Biscuit Blues Festival - ‎⁨Helena, ⁨Arkansas⁩
King Biscuit Blues Festival – ‎⁨Helena, ⁨Arkansas
Juke Joint Festival - Clarksdale, Mississippi
Juke Joint Festival – Clarksdale, Mississippi
King Biscuit Blues Festival - ‎⁨Helena, ⁨Arkansas⁩
King Biscuit Blues Festival – ‎⁨Helena, ⁨Arkansas⁩
Common Bond Brewers - ‎⁨Montgomery⁩, ⁨Alabama⁩
Common Bond Brewers – ‎⁨Montgomery⁩, ⁨Alabama⁩
 New Orleans
Funeral parade – Downtown New Orleans, Louisiana
Broadway - Nashville, Tennessee
Broadway – Nashville, Tennessee
Beale Street - Memphis, Tennessee
Beale Street – Memphis, Tennessee
King Biscuit Blues Festival - ‎⁨Helena, ⁨Arkansas⁩
King Biscuit Blues Festival – ‎⁨Helena, ⁨Arkansas⁩
Juke Joint Festival - Clarksdale, Mississippi
Juke Joint Festival – Clarksdale, Mississippi
Beale Street - Memphis, Tennessee
Beale Street – Memphis, Tennessee
Juke Joint Festival - Clarksdale, Mississippi
Juke Joint Festival – Clarksdale, Mississippi
Grand Ole Opry - Nashville, Tennessee
Grand Ole Opry – Nashville, Tennessee
Pig Pounder Brewery - Greensboro, North Carolina
Pig Pounder Brewery – Greensboro, North Carolina
King Biscuit Blues Festival - ‎⁨Helena, ⁨Arkansas⁩
King Biscuit Blues Festival – ‎⁨Helena, ⁨Arkansas⁩

It’s also a Food Trail.

Crawfish boil - crawfish, mushrooms, corn and potatoes
Mandeville Seafood Market, Mandeville, Louisiana – Crawfish, mushrooms, corn and potatoes
Smoked Brisket Wrap, fig-tomato marmalade, goat cheese, candied jalapeños, with house-made chips
Nissan Cafe, Jackson Mississippi – Smoked Brisket Wrap, fig-tomato marmalade, goat cheese, candied jalapeños, with house-made chips
Shrimp and Grits
Cork & Cleaver, Montgomery, Alabama – Shrimp and Grits
BBQ Boston Butt on Texas Toast
Hancock’s Country BBQ, Selma, Alabama – Chopped Boston Butt BBQ on Texas Toast with a side of fried pickles and coleslaw
Crab cake, rice and cream sauce with shrimp
Wishbone Cafe, Montgomery, Alabama – Crab cake, rice and cream sauce with shrimp
Meat Loaf, turnip greens, boiled okra, creamed potatoes and fried cornbread
Swett’s, Nashville, Tennessee – Meat Loaf, turnip greens, boiled okra, creamed potatoes and fried cornbread
Liz’s Where Y’at Diner, Mandeville, Louisiana – N’awlins Benedict – Fried green tomatoes, sautéed crab meat, green onions, roasted red peppers, grilled asparagus, with poached eggs topped with Hollandaise sauce
Mary Mac's Tea Room - Atlanta, Georgia
Mary Mac’s Tea Room – Atlanta, Georgia
Fried chicken and eggs
Scrambled Southern Diner, Greensboro, North Carolina – Fried chicken benedict with cheddar grits
Catfish, collard's and lima's
Mrs. B’s Homecooking, Montgomery, Alabama – Fried catfish, collard’s and lima’s

And, most importantly, it’s a Truth Trail.

Freedom House - ‎⁨Canton⁩, ⁨Mississippi
Freedom House – ‎⁨Canton⁩, ⁨Mississippi
Edmund Pettus Bridge - Selma, Alabama
Edmund Pettus Bridge – Selma, Alabama
Greensboro History Museum - Greensboro, North Carolina
Greensboro History Museum – Greensboro, North Carolina
International Civil Right Museum - Greensboro, North Carolina
Angelia Joyner, the International Civil Rights Museum – Greensboro, North Carolina
LBJ Presidentail Library – Austin, Texas
‎⁨The King Center⁩ - Atlanta⁩, ⁨Georgia⁩
‎⁨The King Center⁩ – Atlanta⁩, ⁨Georgia⁩

From Ground 0 we were enlightened by the facts concerning violence committed by American citizens against American citizens. These historic moments were presented most professionally, artistically and lovingly.

Ebenezer Baptist Church - Atlanta, Georgia
Ebenezer Baptist Church – Atlanta, Georgia
Mound Bayou, Mississippi
Hermon Johnson Jr. greets Jim at Mound Bayou, Mississippi
Emmett Till Intrepid Center - ‎⁨Glendora⁩, ⁨Mississippi⁩
Johnny B. Thomas, Emmett Till Intrepid Center – ‎⁨Glendora⁩, ⁨Mississippi⁩
Old Depot Museum - Selma, Alabama
Beth Spvey, the Old Depot Museum – Selma, Alabama

Active listening gave us a sense of belonging and healing.

Medgar Ever's home and assassination location - Jackson, Mississippi
Medgar Evers’ home – Jackson, Mississippi

If we were old folks, we’d say, “It was a balm.”

King Center - Atlanta, Georgia
King Center – Atlanta, Georgia

Now we can see America’s path more clearly and understand how civil rights and the democratic process defines every aspect of what it means to be an American.

The National Memorial for Peace and justice - ‎⁨Montgomery⁩, ⁨Alabama⁩
The National Memorial for Peace and justice – ‎⁨Montgomery⁩, ⁨Alabama⁩

The Civil Rights trail, was time well spent.

The Legacy Museum - Montgomery, Alabama
The Legacy Museum – Montgomery, Alabama

We were happy to be there and are still glowing with memories we are eager to share.

‎⁨Freedom Rides Museum - Montgomery⁩, ⁨Alabama⁩
‎⁨Freedom Rides Museum – Montgomery⁩, ⁨Alabama⁩

The Bill of Rights. The Civil War. Jim Crow. This important American history holds the center of gravity in The Deep South.

International Civil Right Museum - Greensboro, North Carolina
International Civil Right Museum – Greensboro, North Carolina

Yet no museum, historical film or classic southern novel can fully capture the atmosphere of this region where the elderly are still seen and loved; where the front porch is not mere ornamentation but an institution of storytelling, music, and homemade ice-cream.

Mama Reta's Kitchen - ‎⁨Lake Charles⁩, ⁨Louisiana⁩
Mama Reta, at Mama Reta’s Kitchen – ‎⁨Lake Charles⁩, ⁨Louisiana⁩

The charm of the South is no myth. Even if a town’s population peaks at 20 – the hair salon will find a way. Formal wear window displays adorn nearly every corner of downtown. Honey, if you have a mind to wear a ball gown to the office you will receive nothing but compliments, and anyone rude enough to ask “What’s the occasion?’ will be bustled into the copy room for a discrete talking-to.

Tanger Bicentennial Garden - Greensboro, N. Carolina

A debutante at Tanger Bicentennial Garden – Greensboro, N. Carolina

Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. in his Letter From A Birmingham Jail called this region his “beloved Southland” because those familiar with The Deep South know there’s so much here to love.

Birmingham Jail
In front of the Birmingham Jail

I’m always crushing on that wink-and-a-smile Southern humor, dryer than a Walmart on a Sunday morning.

Clarksdale, Mississippi

And I adore the shameless dusk when gardenia perfume belly-dances on the swamp’s sultry breath while the old oaks sway their gray beards and the moon rises over the bayou as if Earth is having an out-of-body experience.

Bayou Segnette - Louisiana
Bayou Segnette – Louisiana

Then, the fireflies, those warriors of reality, scrimmage from the deep recesses of the woods to slay every scrap of good sense your mama gave you.

‎⁨Fontainebleau State Park⁩, ⁨Mandeville⁩, ⁨Louisiana⁩

In the South there’s magic in the air.

In fact, the moment Jim and I cross the Mississippi River we experience a physical metamorphosis. First, our skin softens. It’s the moisture. That Gulf Stream hydration is like a free 24-hour facial.

Crossing the Mississippi River at Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Crossing the Mississippi River at Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Second, our speech changes. We say things like “I reckon they’re over yonder fixin’ to have supper.”

Civil Rights Memorial - Montgomery, Alabama
Civil Rights Memorial – Montgomery, Alabama

Third, we sprout a set of good manners. It’s all please n’ thank you and yes Ma’am n’ no Sir. Then we shift into slo-mo – stop to hold doors for strangers; smile and make eye-contact.

LaJune Evans, B & A Country Platter – ‎⁨Newton⁩, ⁨Mississippi⁩

When the small talk wears us out we hunt down a meat-and-three where (praise-the-Lord) mac and cheese is a vegetable and order a plate lunch with a side of debris or gumbo. Then, quick as you can say Crisco we gain twenty pounds. Thus, our Southern transition is complete.

Loveless Cafe – Nashville , Tennessee

Living in Beauty is an education. Jim and I relish the opportunity to see places we’ve never been, sample the regional cuisine, toast with the local hooch and dig on the vibe, the views, the architecture and then come here and blab about it.

"From Slavery to Freedom" tour at Monticello
With our guide, Kyle – “From Slavery to Freedom” tour at Monticello

The Civil Rights Trail delivered all those consumer experiences and more even as we stood in awe before the undeniable truth of America’s original sin.

Emmett Till Memorial Statue - ‎⁨Greenwood⁩, ⁨Mississippi⁩
Emmett Till Memorial Statue – ‎⁨Greenwood⁩, ⁨Mississippi⁩

“What I would like understood as a black American is that black Americans loved and had faith in this country even when this country didn’t love and have faith in them, and that’s our legacy.”

Four Spirits sculpture at Kelly Ingram Park - Birmingham, Alabama
Four Spirits sculpture at Kelly Ingram Park – Birmingham, Alabama

The promise of a more perfect union called us to the Civil Rights Trail to be listeners – students of destiny – to tool-up from an abundance of love and join America’s collective journey toward human rights for all.

LBJ Presidential Library - Austin, Texas
LBJ Presidential Library – Austin, Texas
‎⁨Selma⁩, ⁨Alabama⁩

If you want to see the exact route we travel, click here.

*photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) were taken and copyrighted by Living In Beauty.


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54 Comments
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Anonymous
Anonymous
2 years ago

Beautiful description.

Marion
2 years ago

Great! Greetings from Spain

Morgan Weir
Morgan Weir
2 years ago

That’s the best post you’ve written. So much heart and revelation in this part of your journey. I really envy the eye opening experiences you had.

I have such a love-hate relationship with the South myself. Summers in East Tennessee meant cousins, creeks, porch swings, fried okra, and loving people everywhere. I’d pick up my family’s accent in about five days, get chigger bites and red clay stains on my shorts and blend in with my laughing relatives. It wasn’t until I was a teenager that I learned about the dark, hateful side of Southern culture. Some of those friendly laps I sat on belonged to members of the KKK. Systemic de-humanization is so intrinsic to Southern life that I despair. I don’t know that I’d be welcome there now. I’ve had to block several of my cousins because of habitual hate speech. It’s heartbreaking, and I admire that you-all had the courage to look the contradictions right in the eye.

I can’t wait for the next installments.

4000 Rivets
4000 Rivets
2 years ago
Reply to  Morgan Weir

Well said.

Dingo Girl
Dingo Girl
2 years ago

Very nice writing. Beautiful pictures.

4000 Rivets
4000 Rivets
2 years ago

Wonderfully written and experienced. Thank you for sharing.

Don and Beth
Don and Beth
2 years ago

Very cool! We have been to some of those sites, and even had a place in Walland for a while. We were never aware of a civil rights connection. We had an old tannery workers house on 3 Alley (now Cricket Lane). We look forward to seeing more from you!
Don and Beth

Robyne
Robyne
2 years ago

Love this. I did a similar, though few miles, Civil Rights tour a few years ago. It was so inspiring to walk in the places where history was made – the good, the bad, and the ugly. The dissonance of the modern South where Civil War statutes overshadow the Civil Rights locations was unsettling. Montgomery was a trippy place. I was forever changed by the Legacy Museum and Memorial. Thank you for sharing your experience with your vast audience. It makes a difference!

Julia
Julia
2 years ago

This was very heart warming and encouraging. Gives you a glimpse of sunlight in our country that seems filled with so much negative. Makes me want to meet each one of these people and get to know them. Thanks for exposing us to them and the Civil Rights Story. Well done! ❤️

Anonymous
Anonymous
2 years ago

Well done!

Christina McMillan
Christina McMillan
2 years ago

Fantastic! So many amazing places visited. Can’t wait to see more!

Christina McMillan
Christina McMillan
2 years ago

Ohhhh we’ll be following along for as long as y’all are on the road! 🩵

Mickie Geck
Mickie Geck
2 years ago

I loved every heart-stirring word, every photo, every emotion, every fact and the increase in my historical education. It was like a novel I couldn’t put down. Wow! I know Oklahoma is not considered the “real south” but you brought back memories of stories I heard sitting at the feet of my mother, a wise women who would not tolerate ill treatment of any human being. THIS BLOG IS AWESOME!

Mickie Geck
Mickie Geck
2 years ago
Reply to  Mickie Geck

PS love you two, Mickie Geck

Lilia Case
Lilia Case
2 years ago

Wow! So looking forward to this series. You two are a real inspiration and we can’t wait for my husband’s retirement in Fall of 2025 so we can follow your path. The only question will be: which destination do we choose first 😊

ryoungerca
2 years ago

I too grew up white in an Army family during the 50s and 60s, oblivious to the reality of life as a minority in the USA; especially Blacks. My high school history gave short shrift to the plight of slaves and somehow justified the Jim Crow south. Thank you for taking this on. Thank you for shining a light into some dark corners of history and present day USA. Thanks for the hope that, “…times, they are a changing.”

Eva Chamberlain
Eva Chamberlain
2 years ago

Touching, poignant, typical of LIB style. Thank you, dear ones, for vicariously bringing your readers (fans) along on your valuable adventures.

Fred Racey
Fred Racey
2 years ago

As a Tar Heel born and a Tar Heel bred, I am truly a son of the south and you have done us justice. Thank you! This post reminded me of my granny’s wood cook stove full of corn bread and biscuits, slathered with real, fresh made butter from the cow she milked every day. It also refreshed the transition over my lifetime from an ignorant, prejudiced hick to an educated, caring neighbor to all, regardless of race, creed or color. From Asheville, NC, my deepest thanks. Y’all come see us now, ya hear? Fred Racey

Nancy Sasaki
Nancy Sasaki
2 years ago

Love this! What an adventure. I really loved seeing pictures from my hometown, Austin.

Liesbet @ Roaming About

Thank you for this wonderful glimpse into The Civil Rights Trail, surely a destination in itself for multiple months. Your stunning photos and well-written article makes me want to do this route one day, slowly and meticulously, savoring the food along the way and educating myself more about this part of America’s history.

Del Spiva
Del Spiva
2 years ago

Looks like a trip of a lifetime!! I so appreciate your curiosity and willingness to learn of things I’ve gone thru my whole life, yet I’ve been usually under pressure to stay quiet about. I did a mini tour of this in December, just before I purchased my Airstream. I hit museums, but also spent as much time around live music as I possibly could with my tight schedule. I can’t wait to head back again, towing Ariel, my 2021 23′ Globetrotter!!!

Dawn Redo
Dawn Redo
2 years ago

Thank you for sharing! So many great photos (love the food but it’s a celiac’s nightmare🥲) Such interesting historical sites! I agree being a military kid made us pretty unaware of racism and the fight for civil rights. I read the book Roots in the 10th grade and suddenly got it.

William (Bill) Grant
William (Bill) Grant
2 years ago

Once again you’ve proved you have found your calling. Wonderful post.

Joe C Harris Jr
Joe C Harris Jr
2 years ago

J&C: Perhaps your best “blab” yet. Excellent, beautifully written, chapter on some of the best of Americana and most significant of America’s (tragic) history. We’ll anxiously await the next chapters.

Laurel
2 years ago

This is so inspiring and beautifully written and photographed. We, too, were deeply moved by the Legacy Museum in Montgomery and the Civil Rights Museum in Memphis. We visited them several years apart, and both made me realize that no matter how liberal, egalitarian, and antiracist I believe myself to be, there is always room to deepen my understanding, compassion, and dedication to right action. Love your photos of the people you met along the way!

Dean
Dean
2 years ago

Wow! Leave it to the two of you and your LIB podcast/blog to do such a wonderful and beautiful job documenting your travels and reflections regarding your adventures in the South. As a retired university social work educator from the mid-south that loves to travel and camp, I really enjoy learning the culture and history of the places where we travel with many trips to southern locations. I am not a Civil War aficionado, but have developed a greater appreciation of the impact of the Civil War on our country by camping in state parks, etc. in the South. I appreciate and admire you combining your love for travel and adventure and examining our checkered history of civil rights and our slow progress. I would love to follow in your tire paths with our own exploration of this topic and its destinations.

As always, thank you for a wonderful post.

BTW, I am so inspired by the many others that have commented on this topic. After a morning of news, pursuing the responses to your post have been refreshing and inspiring.

Take care,

Dean

Anonymous
Anonymous
2 years ago

Such a beautiful and insightful article!

Dean
Dean
1 year ago

What a great reminder that the world doesn’t begin and end in our home towns.
If we are curious, we can hit the road and see what is out there.
If we are smart, we travel slowly enough to absorb our destinations like you do.

3505 days on the road


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