Airstreaming to Alaska – Chapter 6: The Oregon Coast

Posted June 21, 2022 – Narrated by Carmen
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Airstreaming to Alaska

“Alis volat propriis”
Latin phrase on the Seal of the Oregon Territory
Translation: “She flies with her own wings.”

oregon coast

As we move north toward Alaska, we never know what we will be up against. Conditions are rarely what the guides project.

Currently, we are dealing with flooded campgrounds due to the early Spring melt. Entering southern Oregon in early March, we were prepared for harsh weather but not the thrashing we took.

oregon coast

The Oregon coast drew us in from California and spewed us out upon Washington, our bones stripped clean of any ideation that this wild, romantic land was ever intended for mere men.

oregon coast

From the moment we pulled into Brookings we felt miserably and ineffectually human. The gloomiest Spring since 1945 was a fine howdy-do.

oregon coast

Freezing temperatures, constant rain, hail, snow and deafening winds would continue for at least eight more weeks, pounding in the message on the old California/Oregon border, “Welcome to Oregon. Enjoy your visit” (Italics mine).

oregon coast

Like most Californians, we adore Oregon. Many of our dearest San Diego friends moved to The Beaver State to stake their claim to a different way of life.

oregon coast

All have fared well. Oregon welcomed them, enfolded them, steadied their anxious hearts and rewarded opportunity with abundance.

oregon coast

The State of Excitement blew our socks off too, and returned them sopping wet without so much as a sunbeam to dry them out.

oregon coast

It seemed we were always online ordering woolen this and rain-proof that .

Still, it wasn’t all a wash. Oregon is gorgeous, even when she sulks …

oregon coast

and storms …

oregon coast

Into The Redwoods

oregon coast

From Eureka, the rain never let up. Traveling the 101 …

redwoods

we passed through the redwood forest to …

Brookings

brookings

Trying to squeeze into a hillside nook beneath the pines at Harris Beach State Park made us feel like newbies. That sickening crunch sound we heard didn’t boost our confidence either. We stopped and investigated but never saw what hit her, so we actually gave it another go.

Ouch!

After giving our poor Beauty the old one-two, we abandoned that site and chose another.

harris beach state park
Our campsite at Harris Beach State Park

Later, when our stomachs settled, we walked back to the scene of the crime. Looking high, low, and every inch in-between we spotted no sign of the offending branch.

This mysterious pounding just goes to show that even after six years of living in Beauty we are mere babes in the woods.

oregon coast

Jim called Vinnie Lamica to pre-order parts for repairs when we return from Alaska. Then we made a champagne-worthy dinner to console the bitterness of defeat.

Pork Fajitas Salad

Cheers. It could have been worse,” served as our mantra on those precious walks between the endless succession of storms.

brookings
brookings
brookings

Since living in Beauty, we’ve learned that there is no ideal place to live, but we could spend more time in Brookings.

brookings

My Aquarian mama called me her little mermaid, and I guess she knew me well because most places I love are either nearly under water or in a Tsunami zone.

I think, I could never tire of this fascinating seashore which looks like a rock convention …

brookings
You may be wondering why we called this meeting…
oregon coast

complete with bad toupees …

brookings

Watching the seagulls scrap for a living in the waves provides hours of riveting comedy and drama.

After the agony of the trailer damage, events in Brookings continued better than expected.

azalea park
Azalea Park

For our second week, we had The Beast’s diesel turbo replaced. We braced ourselves for bad news. Big jobs like this often reveal other jobs that need attention. Drawn by the rave reviews and sterling reputation of the team at the Brookings Chrysler Dodge Jeep Ram dealership, Jim made the appointment weeks ahead.

They handled The Beast with the utmost care and even gave us a fabulous loaner car to cruise the coastline over the weekend.

Things were bad, now all is well,” is a pervasive theme of this magical tsunami ravaged landscape.

Brookings is the only place in the United States to sustain an arial bomb attack by a Japanese fighter in WW2. That was news to us. The library, which was undergoing renovations, allowed us to view the peace memorial.

It was a bit too early in the season to witness the full glory of Azalea Park

but the weekend Farmer’s Market was a favorite haunt …

brookings

as well as Misty Mountain Brewery

Misty Mountain Brewery
Misty Mountain Brewery

and the patio room at Chetco Brewing Company for those rare sunny afternoons …

 Chetco Brewing Company
A personal beer awning! Genius!

when we had a hankerin’ for some fine vegan chow.

 Chetco Brewing Company

Chetco is a treasured neighborhood spot where locals buy each other beers and chalk it up to friendship.

 Chetco Brewing Company

Thanks Brookings. We needed that.

brookings

Coos Bay

coos bay
Coos Bay Marina

Pulling out of Brookings …

we drove the 101 …

oregon coast
oregon coast
oregon coast
oregon coast

to Coos Bay

coos bay

our second home on the Oregon Coast.

Bay Point Landing
Our beach campsite at Bay Point Landing
Bay Point Landing
Sunset from our yard

This gorgeous new campground, Bay Point Landing, built on the site of the old paper plant, was highly recommended by our kind neighbors at Dillon Beach.

The sites are as generous as any state park. Every facility and amenity is provided for a long comfortable stay, a weekend get-away, or a large-group meet-up.

Bay Point Landing
Bay Point Landing
Bay Point Landing
Bay Point Landing

As Accuweather predicted, it rained every day of our two-week stay, but not all day long. We kept an eye to the sky for opportunistic moments to kayak across the bay for a hike on The North Spit

coos bay
coos bay
coos bay
coos bay
coos bay
coos bay

and to auto-tour the stunning coastline …

coos bay
coos bay
coos bay
coos bay

and stroll through the estuary …

play a little corn hole …

or bask in the sun …

We seized a spectacular day for a top-notch lunch at Tokyo Bistro

tokyo bistro coos bay
tokyo bistro coos bay
tokyo bistro coos bay

and an afternoon at Mingus Park.

mingus park
mingus park
mingus park
mingus park
mingus park
mingus park

Our Airstream neighbors next door recommended we try Chuck’s Seafood for the freshest fish in town.

chuck's seafood
chuck's seafood
chuck's seafood
Oyster shooters!

Rain or shine, the shops were always open in this most hospitable seaside town.

coos bay
coos bay
Cranberry Sweets Company
Cranberry Sweets Company
Cranberry Sweets Company LOVE this shop!
Cranberry Sweets Company
Cranberry Sweets Company
Cranberry Sweets Company
Cranberry Sweets Company

And if the rain got us down, Seven Devils was there to pick up our spirits.

seven devils brewing
seven devils brewing
View from the patio at 7 Devils
seven devils brewing

Thanks Coos Bay!

With rain predicted for our travel day, we hitched up on our last night at Bay Point Landing Campground. Sure enough, we pulled out in the rain.

But the weather slowly cleared and we enjoyed the iconic bridges and views.

Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area

Blue Heron French Cheese Company

Blue Heron French Cheese Company, a Harvest Hosts location – where we stocked up on local wine, produce and brie – provided quiet overnight parking.

Blue Heron Cheese Company
Blue Heron Cheese Company

The rain predicted for the previous day caught up with us on the picturesque drive through Tillamook …

to our final Oregon destination …

Seaside

seaside

Jim secured a hunting-permit reservation in advance. Our tag-team strategy to secure a quiet and private space in this a busy, suburban campground was a success.

seaside
Seaside RV Resort
seaside

Learning more about the Lewis and Clark expedition was the two-week plan.

Lewis and Clark National Park
Lewis and Clark National Park
Lewis and Clark National Park
Lewis and Clark National Park
Sacagawea
Lewis and Clark Salt Works
Lewis and Clark Salt Works
Salt Works

These travels across the USA have awakened our interest in American history, and particularly in the life of Meriwether Lewis who’s somber death place we found, one rainy morning, on The Natchez Trace in 2017.


Monument for Meriwether Lewis on the Natchez Trace, Mississippi

The outlet stores at Seaside were an added bonus.

seaside outlets

The museums and shopping served us well as the weather turned exceptionally gnarly.

seaside
seaside

Hiking the scenic trails and kayaking the river didn’t pan out, but how often do you get to cast your eyes on a chocolate sea? The curious biological phenomena is perfectly healthy …

seaside
seaside

and reminded us of the strawberry milk river we saw in Granite Creek in Wyoming.

Granite Creek in the ‎⁨Bridger-Teton National Forest⁩ near Jackson⁩, ⁨Wyoming⁩

Seaside is an historic town with a focus on recreational tourism …

seaside

The indoor amusement park, arcade, restaurants and beach are the main attractions …

seaside

We enjoyed the hip coffee lounges and drive-thru’s

seaside
seaside
seaside

and the innovative breweries in a repurposed jail …

seaside brewing company
Seaside Brewery
seaside brewing company
seaside brewing company
Smoked Pork Ribs, Brisket and Burnt Ends.
seaside brewing company
Live musical performance at Seaside Brewery

and in the old town cinema.

Sisu Beer
Sisu Brewery
Sisu Beer
Sisu Beer
Sample flight served in a film reel
Sisu Beer

And what a pleasure to walk the promenade along the historic beach …

seaside
seaside

The icy chill in the air pointed out our aches and pains. Feeling old makes me ruminate (Beware! Old Person Ruminating. Proceed with extreme caution!)

What Lewis and Clark accomplished was extraordinary, but they are not ancient figures. And, as the world reconsiders the solvency of boundaries, conquest and treaties, their story seems current.

The Seaside History Center Museum

seaside

and Butterfield Cottage brought that squishy issue of age and the passage of time close to home.

seaside

The articles in the collection – call them obsolete, vintage or antique – were once a part of our activities, our daily lives, and are now being rediscovered by young people.

seaside
In the 1980’s, we had a phonograph player almost exactly like this one.
seaside
In the ’70’s at SDSU, Jim used a printing press similar to this museum piece

Discover is such a wide-ranging word. We substitute it for “learn,” “found,” “revelation” and “realize” – as in, “I discovered I was out of gas” and “Mittens helped me discover I am not a cat person.”

Discovery is both personal and generational. The word “over” inside the word “discover” is a clue that discovery is a repetitive exercise because knowledge is fleeting and often hidden.

mingus park

Lewis and Clark did not discover Oregon. They knew Oregon was there the whole time, right at the end of the Oregon Trail which was also always there, by a different name. Their journey is the marvel, and how they opened the territory to western migration.

oregon coast

Dignity and respect have no boundaries. For those who will hearken and obey her wild and winged spirit, the wonder and mystery of Oregon is still open to fresh discovery.


The “Airstreaming to Alaska” series

  • Chapter 1 – San Diego to Malibu
    • Sun Outdoors San Diego Bay – Chula Vista, California
    • Malibu Beach RV Resort – Malibu, California
  • Chapter 2 – Malibu to Morro Bay
    • Morro Bay State Park – Morro Bay, California
  • Chapter 3 – Morro Bay to Santa Cruz
    • Santa Cruz Harbor RV Park – Santa Cruz, California
  • Chapter 4 – Santa Cruz to San Francisco
    • San Francisco RV Park – Pacifica, California
  • Chapter 5 – San Francisco to Eureka
    • Vinnie’s Northbay Airstream Repair – Wilton, California
    • High Water Brewery (Harvest Host location) – Lodi, California
    • Harmony Wynelands (Harvest Host location) – Lodi, California
    • Van Ruiten Family Vineyards (Harvest Host location) – Lodi, California
    • Four Fools Winery (Harvest Host location) – Rodeo, California
    • Lawson’s Landing – Dillon Beach, California
    • Mia Bea Wines (Harvest Host location) – Redwood Valley, California
    • Johnny’s at the  Beach – Eureka, California
  • Chapter 6 – The Oregon Coast
    • Harris Beach State Park – Brookings, Oregon
    • Bay Point Landing Resort – Coos Bay, Oregon
    • Blue Herron French Cheese (Harvest Host location) – Tillimook, Oregon
    • Seaside RV Resort – Seaside, Oregon
  • Chapter 7 – The Strait of Juan de Fuca
    • Washington Land Yacht Harbor Airstream Park – Olympia, Washington
    • Salt Creek Recreation Area – Port Angeles, Washington
  • Chapter 8 – Victoria, British Columbia
    • Weir’s Beach RV Resort – Victoria, British Columbia
  • Chapter 9 – Victoria to Mackenzie
    • Riverside RV Resort – Whistler, British Columbia
    • Big Bar Rest Area – Clinton, British Columbia
    • Walmart Parking Lot – Prince George, British Columbia
    • Alexander MacKenzie Landing – Mackenzie, British Columbia
  • Chapter 10 – The Alaska Highway
    • Northern Lights RV Park – Dawson Creek, British Columbia
    • Former Prophet River State Park – Peace River, British Columbia
    • Hay Lake – Fort Liard, Northwest Territories
    • Northern Rockies Lodge and RV Park – Muncho Lake, British Columbia
    • Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park – Liard River, British Columbia
  • Chapter 11 – Yukon
    • Watson Lake Visitors Center Parking Lot – Watson Lake, Yukon
    • Teslin Rest Area – Teslin, Yukon
    • Norsemen RV Park – Atlin, British Columbia
    • Hot Springs Campground – Whitehorse, Yukon
    • Real Canadian Superstore Parking Lot, Whitehorse, Yukon
    • Gold Rush Campground – Dawson City, Yukon
  • Chapter 12 – Top of the World Highway to Chicken, Alaska
    • Downtown Chicken Cafe and Saloon
  • Chapter 13 – Tok to Valdez
    • Tundra RV Park – Tok, Alaska
    • Gulkana River Rest Stop – Gulkana, Alaska
    • Bear Paw RV Park – Valdez, Alaska
  • Chapter 14 – Glacier View to Anchorage
    • Grand View Cafe and RV Park – Glacier View, Alaska
    • Alaska Raceway Park (Harvest Host location) – Palmer, Alaska
    • Ship Creek RV Park – Anchorage, Alaska
  • Chapter 15 – Kenai Peninsula
    • Heritage RV Park – Homer Spit, Alaska
    • Marathon RV Campground – Seward, Alaska
  • Chapter 16 – Whittier to Talkeetna
    • Williwaw Campground – Whittier, Alaska
    • Talkeenta Camper Park – Talkeetna, Alaska
  • Chapter 17 – Denali
    • Riley Creek Campground – Denali National Park, Alaska
  • Chapter 18 – North Pole to Chena Hot Springs
    • Riverview RV Park – North Pole, Alaska
    • Chena Hot Springs Campground – Fairbanks, Alaska
  • Chapter 19 – Tok to Haines
    • Fast Eddy’s Restaurant Parking Lot – Tok, Alaska
    • Gravel Turnout – Beaver Creek, Yukon
    • Gravel Turnout – Destruction Bay, Yukon
    • Haines Hitch-UP RV Park – Haines, Alaska
  • Chapter 20 – South to the Lower 48
    • Gravel Turnout – Haines Junction, Yukon
    • Teslin Rest Area – Teslin, Yukon
    • Jade City Parking Lot – Jade City, British Columbia
    • Mehan Lake Rest Area – Bell II, British Columbia
    • Fort Telkwa Riverfront RV Park – Telkwa, British Columbia
    • Walmart Parking Lot – Prince George, British Columbia
    • 100 Mile House Municipal Campground – 100 Mile House, British Columbia
    • Mt. Paul Golf Course (Harvest Host location) – Kamloops, British Columbia
    • Crowsnest Vineyards (Harvest Host location) – Cawston, British Columbia
  • Final Chapter – Lessons Learned
    • Philosophy
    • Preparation
    • Planning
    • Mileposts (the book)
    • Roads
    • Weather
    • Camping
    • Cash and Currency
    • Clothing
    • Food
    • Wildlife
    • Bugs
    • Fuel
    • Dump Stations and Potable Water
    • Pets
    • Internet Connectivity
    • Hiking
    • Cycling
    • Kayaking
    • Damage
    • Dangers
    • Canada Border Crossing
    • US Border Crossing
    • General Observations
    • Serendipity
    • Final Thoughts
    • Our Camp Sites

If you want to see the exact route we travel, click here.

*photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) were taken and copyrighted by Living In Beauty.


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57 Comments
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Rod Young
Rod Young
3 years ago

Oregon has been very unpredictable this year. We’re in the central valley and received measurable snow in early May.

John Cosgrove
John Cosgrove
3 years ago

Wrote you back when you posted about your e-bikes, we had similar experiences and decided to move forward with the Dolphins with your generous discounts! Have enjoyed following you up the coast, starting with the Chula Vista RV park and the bike trail. We just returned from staying there and doing the entire bike trail loop, thank you so much for the suggestion! (and the e-bikes) We have friends that are full-timers in a 23 foot Airstream that are campground hosts up in Harris Beach, wonder if they were on duty when you stopped in? If they were up there I’m sure you would have met them, Pat and Jerri are very outgoing and I’m sure they would have introduced themselves. So enjoy your postings and learn so much about the local attractions should we ever get a chance to make it to any of your destinations. Thanks so much and safe travels!

Chito Pono
Chito Pono
3 years ago

one day….

Kaarin Brown
Kaarin Brown
3 years ago

Nobody warned you of “Spring” weather in Oregon
🤣💨🌊☔❄️🌥️ … And repeat only scrambled

Nancy Sasaki
Nancy Sasaki
3 years ago

I loved this one because of the ups and downs.

Kim Huber Buzan
Kim Huber Buzan
3 years ago

As an Oregonian, I found this to be such a beautifully written description of our lovely state! Wonderful photos, too…

Teresita De Jesus Simons
Teresita De Jesus Simons
3 years ago

Thank you for the lovely journey through Oregon.

Jim Pascarella
3 years ago

Especially loved the ethereal Native American music
Miss you guys
Let’s have a Zoom happy hour soon

Joe H
Joe H
3 years ago

Seems like you had a typical spring Oregon experience…🤪. The coastline is spectacular and the seaside towns wonderful … but as you say, there is no perfect place to live, [except perhaps in an Airstream.]. Happy continuation – wishing you some warming sunshine – now that summer has officially arrived maybe you’ll get some, along with a bit of internet. We’re back from France this week and already north-bound to try to escape the worst if summer’s heat and smoke; then back across the pond in mid-September for a few months….. see you in ‘23! Joe and Ronnie

Carl Carlson
Carl Carlson
3 years ago

Wow, your travels are never dull 😉. But you clearly are making the best of what the planet throws your way. Once again, a great trip update…stay safe and have fun!

Laurel
3 years ago

Oh my….eight long weeks of rain and fog and storms. Still, as always, you found the beauty. We lived in Oregon for more than 25 years and have spent a lot of time on the coast, including some epic long coastal journeys when we started full-timing. We lucked out in late spring several years ago with a month of perfect weather. But that is unusual.

So glad you’ll have another opportunity on your way back from Alaska! You’ll discover the secret that all Oregonians know….September and October are the best weather months on the coast. Safe travels!

Linda Sanders
Linda Sanders
3 years ago

My great great uncle sat on the jury of the death of Meriwether Lewis. The court in Tennessee was trying to determine whether he was murdered or committed suicide. It was an interesting trial. I’ll have to look up the verdict. Their contribution to America was astounding.

Kathy J Anderson
Kathy J Anderson
3 years ago

Beautiful photos! Sorry about Beauty’s mishap. 😢 But, you can continue your journey north, and get it repaired later. As you know, I enjoy reading and hearing about your great adventures! It also adds to my list of places I haven’t been. Carry on and safe travels! 🥰

Janice Langlinais
3 years ago

I represent the Coos Bay, North Bend and Charleston area as the head of the visitor bureau. Thank you so much for showing off the southern Oregon Coast and especially our area so beautifully. Your photos are stunning. If you ever head back this way, let us know and we’d love to say Thank You in person.

Kathy Tucker
Kathy Tucker
3 years ago

Sorry to see that Beauty got a blemish, but love seeing how you just roll with it. I hope we are that way when we start to full time.

Kathleen Hibbard
Kathleen Hibbard
3 years ago

That looks like a Linotype (hot lead typesetting) machine to me. Spent my 20’s and 30’s working in the printing industry. The noises those amazing machines made were a symphony of clicking clacking tinkling as the operator typed out one line, one column width, at a time. Now dinosaurs. Like me, 71 now, and lucky enough to also have an Airstream. Safe travels to Alaska and back.

Linda Mitchell
Linda Mitchell
3 years ago

Carmen and Jim,
Greg and I looked at your crumbled Airstream skin and our hearts stuttered since it looks exactly like ours (minus the crumple…currently). I have varying theories as to the cause: stress on the trailer skin internal supports while making a tight backing turn, your invisible branch, and my favorite, a meteorite. Disclaimer: Greg does not support any of those theories.

Take care of one another as always.
Love, Linda

Linda Brewer
Linda Brewer
3 years ago

NOW we have to go up the Oregon Coast.

Lori Shafaye
Lori Shafaye
3 years ago

We were in Teslin last week! The Yukon campground canceled our reservations due to flooding. I hope the water has receded by now.

Lori Shafaye
Lori Shafaye
3 years ago

We crossed the border last Wednesday. We stayed at Sourdough Campground one night and River’s Edge Campground for 6 nights. We’re in the Denali Rainbow Village Campground for 4 nights b/f heading to Wasilla for 9 days. We have an appointment to get the windshield replaced in our truck!

Claudia Uhe
Claudia Uhe
3 years ago

It was a little bit better around Easter. Harris beach is gorgeous

Claudia Uhe
Claudia Uhe
3 years ago

We are kind of “intermittent full-Timers“. We are Germans living in Germany and come to the US to travel when our work schedules allows it. In April we did the trip from Las Vegas to Portland. We have 5 weeks in summer and plan to see more of the Columbia river and the coast. End point will be the Bay Area. We plan to go to Alaska when my husband retires in 2 or 3 years.
We enjoy following your route, a lot of common interests.
Happy and safe travels
Claudia

Brenda Megel
Brenda Megel
3 years ago

Poor Beauty! I am so sorry this happened to her. But, of course she can be fixed. I thought Brookings had mild weather all winter? We visited there in a car years ago and fell in love with the quaint town. But, again, I thought it had mild weather all winter long. 🙂 And, snow? Wow. Flooding now? You guys have hit the gamut, haven’t you? I did see a few pics with shorts and short sleeves. 🙂 Love, the OR coast, so amazingly beautiful.

Dean
Dean
3 years ago

Ouch. Sorry to hear about the beauty mark on Beauty.
Given the glorious photos of your travels, the occasional repair seems worth the price of admission.
Chins up. All will be well.
And those Alaskan roads may provide more rash anyway.
Thanks for sharing your adventures!
Dean

Liesbet @ Roaming About

Yikes about the bad weather. Rain and cold is never fun, but when living fulltime in a camper, it does get really old, really quick. Not sure when you left Oregon, but we arrived one month ago in this state and for the first three weeks, it rained every day and the high was somewhere in the fifties. In June! Now, we are suffering through a heat wave. In a camper without AC… Let’s hope there will be some days in the seventies, before summer really starts here. 🙂

Pete Kellos
Pete Kellos
3 years ago

Once again, your post is magical. An absolute joy to listen to and look at the accompanying images of the journey. Keep up the good work. You produce the best travel blog on the internet.

Rob Spera
3 years ago

Sorry to hear about your mishap. I’ve seen many rigs in perfect shape, and I have also seen those same rigs never leave the storage facility. If you use your rig enough, eventually there will be some dings and scrapes. Last year was the first time I returned from a trip without having to visit the body shop. This year, so far, so good. I really enjoy your writings and photos, you are an excellent writer.

Erika Snyder
Erika Snyder
2 years ago

Nice blog here! Also your site loads up very fast! What host are you using? Can I get your affiliate link to your host? I wish my site loaded up as quickly as yours lol

June
June
11 months ago

What a stunning and captivating read! The Oregon Coast beautifully captures the breathtaking scenery, rich history, and unique charm of this iconic region. Your vivid descriptions and engaging storytelling transport readers to the rugged cliffs, sandy beaches, and picturesque towns along the coastline. I especially appreciated how you combined practical travel tips with personal reflections, making the blog both informative and inspiring. Thank you for sharing such a thoughtfully crafted piece this is a must-read for anyone looking to explore the beauty and wonder of the Oregon Coast!

3481 days on the road


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