Airstreaming to Alaska – Chapter 4: Santa Cruz to San Francisco

Posted May 24, 2022 – Narrated by Carmen
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Airstreaming to Alaska
Airstreaming to Alaska

“You take delight not in a city’s seven or seventy wonders, but in the answer it gives to a question of yours.” 

Magnificent bridges,

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We rode our Dolphin eBikes over the Golden Gate Bridge

beautiful public gardens,

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Japanese Tea Garden San Fransisco

the oldest Chinatown in North America,

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an old island prison,

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Taking a moment to honor our dear friend Larry Benegas (Kumeyaay Barona) who occupied Alcatraz with UIAT in the 70’s to raise awareness of the intergenerational trauma indigenous people suffer.

and we don’t know a soul who lives there.

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‎⁨Marin Headlands⁩, ⁨Sausalito⁩

That’s all we had on San Francisco.

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We figured The City would be cold, foggy, crowded and expensive.

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Not so.

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Enjoying the Painted Ladies of San Francisco

We arrived in mid-February as a dry, warm front moved in and SF (in the early stages of re-opening) had no crowds at all, and prices were competitive even in the touristy areas.

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Ghirardelli Chocolate in San Francisco since 1849

This was my second visit to SF. Twenty years ago I flew in for a weekend with friends, Lori and Marsha. But in almost fifty years as a California couple, we never visited The Bay Area together, and that’s a shame.

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San Francisco is beautiful.

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As with New York City, we were surprised by San Francisco’s compact size. At only seven-miles by seven-miles everything is within reach.

We explored the city on foot …

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We found Pico’s yacht!

from the top deck of a tour bus

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Double deck tour buses are a great way to get city photos

and with our folding Dolphin eBikes.

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Getting There

Bundled up like French trappers, we pulled out of Santa Cruz. It felt odd to wear our “Canada Clothes” in central California, but our artichokes were freezing off.

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Coffee cup clenched to my chest I whimpered, “Who’s idea was it to travel north in winter?” Then, in Living in Beauty tradition, Jim played Willie and my spirit gradually lifted as we sang together…


Going places where we’ve never been,
       seeing things that we may never see again …
Willie Nelson from his song “On The Road Again”

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Entering Pacifica

“Suck it up, Buttercup,” I thought. Adventure means high stakes and bizarre weather events are par for the course these days. I just hope that, up the road, there’s never a reason to name a pass after us.

Winter cold fronts in California are usually periodic events. Within hours or days the sun pops out as if to say “Just kidding!” and the shorts and t-shirt rut resumes. Californians use cold weather as an excuse to stay home and remind ourselves why we live here.

Entering San Mateo County, we felt transported. That seventy-mile span of coastline took us from rolling grasslands to lush evergreen forests, and finally to …

The Edge

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Our view from our campground

Pacifica

We pulled off Hwy 280 at Pacifica, our home for a week.

We stepped out of the truck and the warm California breeze hugged our bones like a good old friend. Tony Bennet is right, the golden sun really does come out. Of course the freeze was a joke. Haha. Good one. We couldn’t shed our coats fast enough.

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Some of the campground is eroded into the ocean

The Campground is all about location. San Francisco RV Resort is merely an asphalt parking lot on a cliff overlooking the Pacific.

In fact, part of the campground is actually in the Pacific but you try not to think about that as the white horses kick the rocks. Sea cliff erosion is a decades-old issue for this surfing community with an unquenchable c’est la vie vibe.

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Pacifica, California

The breathtaking riviera threw us off our mission. With only a week here, we reasoned, “Why go into the city at all?” This is relaxing. Cities are tiresome.

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A view of Pacifica from Mori Point

We took a long walk to sort out our priorities.

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pacifica
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The beach was winning by a mile.

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Sharp Park Golf Course on the beach near the campground

But then, a little bird suggested that if we take small steps we can enjoy both the beach and San Francisco: Pacifica during the best beach hours (morning and evening) and San Francisco in the mid-day.

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“And,” this amazing and articulate little birdie added, “You will like the food.”

E & O Kitchen san francisco
Oysters at E & O Kitchen
Kabuto  san francisco
Salmon Sushi at Kabuto
Kabuto  san francisco
Dragon Roll – Unagi & Avocado (outside) Tempura Shrimp (inside)
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Chinatown roasted duck
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Corned Beef and Cabbage, Red Potatoes, Carrots and Horseradish Mustard Sauce
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World famous Irish Coffee at The Buena Vista

Yes. Small steps. What a wise bird.

If we get weary with sightseeing in SF, we can simply BART home.

Thinking about all that fine San Francisco cuisine made us hungry. So we walked home to toast our arrival and whip up an early dinner of Pasta Pesto Presto

and settled in for the sunset show.

We were on a roll.

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Downtown San Francisco

Every morning began with an oceanside walk to The Chit Chat Cafe where we dug into flaky freshly baked croissants, strawberry preserves and coffee …

pacifica chit chat
pacifica chit chat
Eddie Raymond, Peter Innes, Kurt Graffy & John Picetti play at Chit-Chat on weekends and holidays.

From there we Uber’d to BART (Bay Area Rapid Transport) …

san francisco bart

into downtown where Second Breakfast …

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Chilaquiles at Hollywood Cafe
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Buttermilk pancakes with apple butter, basted eggs and fresh fruit.

fortified a San Francisco walking tour.

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Remembering the good times at Chuck Martinez’s Magic Shop on 30th Street in San Diego
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Then, we BARTed back to Pacifica for Happy Hour featuring our own homemade Nekid Lady Greek Salad at Pedro Point Brewing.

pedro point brewery pacifica
pedro point brewery pacifica

We got into a routine

The itinerary worked beautifully, every day, with few variations: Morning Chit-Chat;

pacifica chit chat

BART,

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San Francisco,

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Pedro Point,

pedro point brewery pacifica
pedro point brewery pacifica
Pacifica Brewery

Sunset.

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We love cities, all of them. Big and small.

pacifica chit chat

But rushing around can be exhausting …

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Afternoon tea at the Japanese Tea Garden

and the details, which are key to a city’s character, are overlooked.

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If we miss something spectacular, we can return someday.

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There will always be plenty to see.

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Cities are worth exploring.

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They are humanity’s cluttered workshops where the best and worst ideas share dusty corners

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where myth, rumor, legends and secrets beget cultures;

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Virtual tour of San Francisco’s Barbary Coast Trail

where outdated technologies that once served as cutting edge solutions continue to function beside the latest high-tech digital can-do creations;

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where obsolete and failed attempts at progress still inspire utopian dreams.

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Cities are a solution to the problem of alienation

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and a place where it is easy to disappear into the crowd.

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People go to the city to recreate themselves.

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Take it from someone who grew up in Naples, Italy – the more dirty, raucous and complex the city is, the better.

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The grimy business of rebirth may not be the city’s intent, but it is its best commodity.

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The grotesqueness and chaos function like a cocoon or egg seeping with the mucus of percolating creation.

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For those with ears to hear, cities are humanity’s genius holding forth.

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San Francisco may be a bad place to leave your car unattended …

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but it’s a great place to park your heart

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Umbrella Alley

If you can find a level spot.

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We came to San Francisco with the question, “What took us so long?” and, though we didn’t see it all, at least we got our feet wet in The Bay Area.

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On to Dillion Beach!

What’s your favorite thing to do in San Francisco? Please tell us in a comment block below.


The “Airstreaming to Alaska” series

  • Chapter 1 – San Diego to Malibu
    • Sun Outdoors San Diego Bay – Chula Vista, California
    • Malibu Beach RV Resort – Malibu, California
  • Chapter 2 – Malibu to Morro Bay
    • Morro Bay State Park – Morro Bay, California
  • Chapter 3 – Morro Bay to Santa Cruz
    • Santa Cruz Harbor RV Park – Santa Cruz, California
  • Chapter 4 – Santa Cruz to San Francisco
    • San Francisco RV Park – Pacifica, California
  • Chapter 5 – San Francisco to Eureka
    • Vinnie’s Northbay Airstream Repair – Wilton, California
    • High Water Brewery (Harvest Host location) – Lodi, California
    • Harmony Wynelands (Harvest Host location) – Lodi, California
    • Van Ruiten Family Vineyards (Harvest Host location) – Lodi, California
    • Four Fools Winery (Harvest Host location) – Rodeo, California
    • Lawson’s Landing – Dillon Beach, California
    • Mia Bea Wines (Harvest Host location) – Redwood Valley, California
    • Johnny’s at the  Beach – Eureka, California
  • Chapter 6 – The Oregon Coast
    • Harris Beach State Park – Brookings, Oregon
    • Bay Point Landing Resort – Coos Bay, Oregon
    • Blue Herron French Cheese (Harvest Host location) – Tillimook, Oregon
    • Seaside RV Resort – Seaside, Oregon
  • Chapter 7 – The Strait of Juan de Fuca
    • Washington Land Yacht Harbor Airstream Park – Olympia, Washington
    • Salt Creek Recreation Area – Port Angeles, Washington
  • Chapter 8 – Victoria, British Columbia
    • Weir’s Beach RV Resort – Victoria, British Columbia
  • Chapter 9 – Victoria to Mackenzie
    • Riverside RV Resort – Whistler, British Columbia
    • Big Bar Rest Area – Clinton, British Columbia
    • Walmart Parking Lot – Prince George, British Columbia
    • Alexander MacKenzie Landing – Mackenzie, British Columbia
  • Chapter 10 – The Alaska Highway
    • Northern Lights RV Park – Dawson Creek, British Columbia
    • Former Prophet River State Park – Peace River, British Columbia
    • Hay Lake – Fort Liard, Northwest Territories
    • Northern Rockies Lodge and RV Park – Muncho Lake, British Columbia
    • Liard River Hot Springs Provincial Park – Liard River, British Columbia
  • Chapter 11 – Yukon
    • Watson Lake Visitors Center Parking Lot – Watson Lake, Yukon
    • Teslin Rest Area – Teslin, Yukon
    • Norsemen RV Park – Atlin, British Columbia
    • Hot Springs Campground – Whitehorse, Yukon
    • Real Canadian Superstore Parking Lot, Whitehorse, Yukon
    • Gold Rush Campground – Dawson City, Yukon
  • Chapter 12 – Top of the World Highway to Chicken, Alaska
    • Downtown Chicken Cafe and Saloon
  • Chapter 13 – Tok to Valdez
    • Tundra RV Park – Tok, Alaska
    • Gulkana River Rest Stop – Gulkana, Alaska
    • Bear Paw RV Park – Valdez, Alaska
  • Chapter 14 – Glacier View to Anchorage
    • Grand View Cafe and RV Park – Glacier View, Alaska
    • Alaska Raceway Park (Harvest Host location) – Palmer, Alaska
    • Ship Creek RV Park – Anchorage, Alaska
  • Chapter 15 – Kenai Peninsula
    • Heritage RV Park – Homer Spit, Alaska
    • Marathon RV Campground – Seward, Alaska
  • Chapter 16 – Whittier to Talkeetna
    • Williwaw Campground – Whittier, Alaska
    • Talkeenta Camper Park – Talkeetna, Alaska
  • Chapter 17 – Denali
    • Riley Creek Campground – Denali National Park, Alaska
  • Chapter 18 – North Pole to Chena Hot Springs
    • Riverview RV Park – North Pole, Alaska
    • Chena Hot Springs Campground – Fairbanks, Alaska
  • Chapter 19 – Tok to Haines
    • Fast Eddy’s Restaurant Parking Lot – Tok, Alaska
    • Gravel Turnout – Beaver Creek, Yukon
    • Gravel Turnout – Destruction Bay, Yukon
    • Haines Hitch-UP RV Park – Haines, Alaska
  • Chapter 20 – South to the Lower 48
    • Gravel Turnout – Haines Junction, Yukon
    • Teslin Rest Area – Teslin, Yukon
    • Jade City Parking Lot – Jade City, British Columbia
    • Mehan Lake Rest Area – Bell II, British Columbia
    • Fort Telkwa Riverfront RV Park – Telkwa, British Columbia
    • Walmart Parking Lot – Prince George, British Columbia
    • 100 Mile House Municipal Campground – 100 Mile House, British Columbia
    • Mt. Paul Golf Course (Harvest Host location) – Kamloops, British Columbia
    • Crowsnest Vineyards (Harvest Host location) – Cawston, British Columbia
  • Final Chapter – Lessons Learned
    • Philosophy
    • Preparation
    • Planning
    • Mileposts (the book)
    • Roads
    • Weather
    • Camping
    • Cash and Currency
    • Clothing
    • Food
    • Wildlife
    • Bugs
    • Fuel
    • Dump Stations and Potable Water
    • Pets
    • Internet Connectivity
    • Hiking
    • Cycling
    • Kayaking
    • Damage
    • Dangers
    • Canada Border Crossing
    • US Border Crossing
    • General Observations
    • Serendipity
    • Final Thoughts
    • Our Camp Sites

If you want to see the exact route we travel, click here.

*photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) were taken and copyrighted by Living In Beauty.


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39 Comments
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Paul Wheeler
Paul Wheeler
3 years ago

Pictures wonderful. What a great review of one of our most favorite places. Great reflections too!

Melody
Melody
3 years ago

I noticed you said you hadn’t visited SF in “fifty decades as a California couple.” Are you vampires?😉

Greg
Greg
3 years ago

If you find yourself back down that way I’d really recommend a trip to the Walt Disney Family Museum out on the Presidio. Perhaps my favorite Museum anywhere in a beautiful location. I wonderful way to while away a day and absolutely fascinating.

Barbara Mandel
Barbara Mandel
3 years ago

Love the descriptions!

David Wells
David Wells
3 years ago

Have you noticed the homeless in excess?? Last time we were there it was worse than San Diego. Safe travels.

Dane Coyer
Dane Coyer
3 years ago

Did you go to the fortune cookie factory in China town?

Carol Hubbard
3 years ago

Great article! Favorite things to do in SF: Eat and drink tea at the Russian Tea House in Union Square, take a trolley down to Fisherman’s Wharf, have a meal in Chinatown, drive across the GG Bridge to Sausalito.

Laurel
3 years ago

Oh, we adore San Francisco! And Boston! And Chicago! And as you said, big and small and in-between cities. We also love our nature adventures (and need them), but as you said, cities are exciting and invigorating and filled with interesting sights and sensory experiences.

You certainly found a wonderful rhythm for your days, with your city time bookended by your beach time. We stayed in Marin across the bridge at an RV park where we could walk to the ferry. The ferry delivered us right to the Ferry Building, which is a grand attraction in itself, with all kinds of food purveyors and fabulous restaurants. We also enjoyed biking across the Golden Gate from our campground, riding the streetcars, Golden Gate Park, the de Young art museum, Coit Tower…now I want to go back! (If you return and are interested in the RV park, there’s a link to it on our blog in the San Francisco post.)

Linda Sanders
Linda Sanders
3 years ago

Love San Fran…used to live there, back in the Height – Ashbury days. Fabulous city..with it’s own atmosphere and personality. Used to be a great restaurant on the wharf called Alioto’s on pier 39, I think. Great city.

Claudette Desjardins
Claudette Desjardins
3 years ago

Bon voyage. Always!

Barbara Taylor
Barbara Taylor
3 years ago

Every trip to “My City” is to a different area of town. My last trip took me to my very first home near Presidio Park. The last time I was at Haight Ashbury was 1968. It was more fascinating this time around and brought me back in time. We like to take the trolley to “somewhere” then get out and walk. Fun to pass through the various cultures of the City, savor fine foods and move on. Next time try the Italian pastries.

Jeannette Mack
Jeannette Mack
2 years ago

The Italian part of town is North Beach, just north of Chinatown. We adore our City by the Bay and are excited to look more closely at RVing possibilities there!

Helen Schultz
Helen Schultz
3 years ago

I was so relieved to see that this is in February. I thought, at this rate they won’t get to Alaska until next spring, lol.

Dean
Dean
3 years ago

Thanks for the tour. Haven’t been there since 1970.

Kathy J Anderson
Kathy J Anderson
3 years ago

Thank you as always for your narrative and beautiful photos. Safe travels my Friends!

Hugh Black
Hugh Black
3 years ago

Hello Jim and Carmen.
We enjoyed your visit to San Francisco. I used to travel to San Francisco in the late 70’s. Our Regional headquarters was there. Two of my favorite places were Edinburgh Castle on Geary St and Original Joes. I have a question. We have a 30’ 04 Airstream. We are considering a 3 inch lift. What made you decide to do the lift? Hope to run into you on our travels somewhere sometime.
Thank you and safe travels.
Hugh and Joni

Jerry and Jackie Smith
Jerry and Jackie Smith
3 years ago

A lifetime of memories in San Francisco – the best way to share them is have you read chapter 9 in my book. Easy to view on my website jmitchellsmith.net.

Jim Pascarella
Jim Pascarella
3 years ago

Our favorite thing to do in SF is no more. The Club Fugazzi in North Beach had a show that ran for decades called Beach Blanket Babylon — one of the best entertainment experiences of my life
Riding the Trolley to the Buena Vista for breakfast then sitting at the bar drinking the best Irish Coffee in the world (it’s all about the cream) while watching the bartender do card tricks
Eating clam chowder out of sour dough bowls at Fisherman’s Wharf

On your way back down let’s meet there

Jim Pascarella
Jim Pascarella
3 years ago

Excellent
Thought about flying to Fairbanks and joining you in the hot springs and scoping out the aurora

Liesbet @ Roaming About

Living the good life! It’s so nice to see how you three are enjoying yourselves and finding great balances while traveling and camping. And Pico can come along easily in the train and on the bike. It wouldn’t be possible with Maya.

I love SF, for the same reason I love Washington DC. They are both breathable and walkable and cultural and diverse. The biggest plus of San Francisco is the waterfront – the icons of the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz raise it up a step. And so many (dog-friendly) parks that surround the city as well. You captured the spirit of the city really well.

3408 days on the road


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