Airstreaming to Alaska – Final Chapter: Lessons Learned

Posted August 15, 2023 – Narrated by Jim (updated March 2026)

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Most tourists take two weeks to see Alaska. That’s a mind-bender for slow travel enthusiasts.

From down here in the lower 48 – as we look back on our 246 day trek with two-months in Alaska – it all seems like a whirlwind two-week expedition. Where did the time go? Is Alaska’s mysterious energy threshold a portal to another dimension? Or was it all a dream?

Of course, Alaska is really up there, I know … because I found the notes we took, the notes I wish someone had shared with us before we set out.

So, here is our open book of the details – things we learned which you may find interesting, or even serve you as you plan your own unique overland adventure to the 49th State.

Alaska is a long way from Everywhere.

You don’t get a sense of that distance on a passenger jet or cruise ship like you do on wheels.

We still can’t believe we did it, logging 4,500 miles in 175 days from San Diego to our entry near Chicken, Alaska.

Our tour of the Alaska interior covered 2,400 miles

Our exit from Haines, Alaska to the US Customs and Border at Nighthawk Port of Entry in Loomis, Washington covered 1,800 miles.

Here is an animated map of our journey

Then another 2,100 miles back to San Diego. Total round trip was 10,700 miles, not counting the mileage we logged while unhitched.

So, here’s our post-Alaska POV on …

Philosophy • Preparation • Planning • Mileposts (the book) • Roads • Weather • Camping • Cash and Currency • Clothing • Food • Wildlife • Bugs • Fuel • Dump Stations and Potable Water • Pets • Internet Connectivity • Hiking • Cycling • Kayaking • Damage • Dangers • Canada Border Crossing • US Border Crossing • General Observations • Serendipity • Final Thoughts • Our Camp Sites

Philosophy

• Approach the entire trip with a sense of gratitude. You made it!
• Accept what you are given and make the best of it. If cherries cost $25 per pound, eat yams. Alaska is a lot of things, but it is not a mecca for fresh produce.
• Constant awareness is exhausting, but keep your eyes sharp. Watching the road, and your back, is all part of your wilderness adventure. 🐻🫎🦬🦅🐃🐐
• There isn’t a right way or wrong way to travel. If you want to take a side trip at the last minute, go for it! It may be the best decision you made in Alaska.
• Listen to your instincts. We didn’t necessarily take the best route, it was simply the way we went based on our instincts.
• Alaska is not only visual, it’s a full-body sensory experience. Let it move you. Journal, paint, or photograph everything you care to, but don’t forget to just breathe.

Preparation

• Get all new tires for your tow vehicle and trailer, and take spare tubes for your bikes.
• With fairly new tires, we only took one spare and we didn’t use it.
• If you are pulling a trailer, have the suspension, brakes and wheel seals checked before starting north.
• Have all vehicle fluids checked and include an oil change.
• Make sure your car insurance covers Canada. Talk to your agent.
• Take enough prescription medicine(s) for the entire journey.
• Do not expect on-time deliveries from Amazon or any supplier. Due to supplier and carrier delays, combined with the great distance, arrival times may not coincide with your travel schedule.
• Cell service coverage is either sketchy or nonexistent in most areas.
• We acquired an inReach Satellite communicator to text a daily message to our family with our location and a “We’re OK” message.
  • When we saw a disabled vehicle in the middle of nowhere Alaska where there was no cell service, we used our inReach Satellite communicator to text emergency services and schedule a tow truck for the stranded driver.
• Consider joining these Facebook groups: RVing to Alaska , Alaska RV Travelers, Alaska Highway / The Alcan / Cassiar Hiway and Driving the Alcan – Alaska Canadian Highway These are great resources!
• A sleeping mask to cover our eyes was essential gear to stay on schedule during those 21-hour summer days.
• Because internet connectivity is scarce, we bought a small DVD player and several movies for entertainment during long rainy nights in the bush.
• We also stocked up on Kindle books.
• We used our Garmin GPS, which allows us to input our rigs length and height to help guide us on the safest routes.
• Tlingit is the First Nation’s language. At least half the locals we met along the Pacific Northwest were indigenous people. As visitors, it’s polite to learn a few words of the host’s language.

Planning

• Making reservations prior to arrival was only necessary to secure a space in the most popular areas.
• Visiting Alaska for two months may sound like a long time, but we’d have stayed longer if weather had allowed. Alaska is a large state!
• The average visit is less than 14 days. Plan to stay as long as possible because fires and harsh weather will probably eat up some of your time. Remember, this may be your only visit.
• Don’t rush through British Columbia and Yukon, these provinces are all part of The Great North and the scenic beauty is comparable to the majesty of the Alaska interior.
• Roll like a pioneer. The journey is the experience. Getting there is part of the fun.
• Expect your plans to change. Most things are out of your control: weather, road conditions, ferry schedules, forest fires, floods. Stay informed and aware of what is happening around you and adapt.
• Plan for down-time to recoup your energy, or deal with repairs.
• To see the Aurora Borealis (The Northern Lights), we planned to be in an area of probability in late August to mid-September when the season for the phenomena begins. We observed The Lights in Fairbanks in late August.
• We created a computer document to take notes about our trip.
  • We have a section on general notes and a section for each area we wanted to visit.
  • We included sites of interest, things to do, concerns, possible places to camp and any important details.
  • Since we don’t carry paper, we stored our notes in Dropbox for easy access on our computers and iPhones.
• We used RV Life Trip Wizard to plan our entire trip, plus many of the websites and Apps on our blog post “RVer’s Bag ‘o Tricks.”

Milepost (the book)

• We used Milepost extensively.

• A new edition is released annually, in April. We used a 2021 edition (a year ahead) and began marking it heavily.
• Milepost served as a daily travel guide to customize our itinerary. Every morning we checked our route for places to stop for lunch, take a hike, visit a geological wonder or tour a historic site.
• Milepost was an indispensable research tool, but not a perfect one. Sometimes we would have to read it backwards because we were traveling in the opposite direction of the one-way guide. Sure wish we could download the app.

Roads

• Alaska averages 2.26 million visitors per year, but less than 100,000 travel by land, that’s only 5% of all tourism. There is a reason for that. Driving is expensive, dusty, exhausting and dangerous, but incredibly rewarding.
• Historically, the best time to drive the Alaska Highway is from May to mid-September. Not only are the roads better during this time, but there are more services open for seasonal travelers.
• The roads were fine for long stretches and they were horrible for long stretches with construction delays and detours.
• Miles of rutted dirt roads – enough for a full days drive – are much worse in the rain.
• Potholes and frost heaves are to be expected on any road, new or old, at any time.
• Mind the warning signs for potholes and frost heaves, but don’t depend on them as it takes time to replace the flags after storms, floods and fires – and, they’re kind of low to the ground and get blocked by summer growth.
• Do not accelerate on good roads expecting those conditions to remain consistent. That’s where we saw drivers breaking axles. Practice restraint and pull off to enjoy the view, make a cup of coffee, take nice pictures, give the dog a break. So you show up late. So what? It doesn’t get dark till midnight. Slow and steady reaps reward.

• Do not plan to average even 50 miles per hour.
• Most roads are two lanes with many pullouts to allow fast traffic to pass. We frequently used the pullouts to let supply trucks pass.
• Keep in mind that the AlCan wasn’t built for tourists, it was built by the military to supply the outposts. You are an afterthought.
• When driving in Canada, the speed limits and distances are in kilometers.
• The drive between Tok and Destruction Bay is so riddled with wide pot holes and deep frost heaves that damage to your rig is highly likely to occur if you drive too fast. We averaged 30 mph.
  • We reduced our fresh water tank by half when traveling between Tok and Destruction Bay. Lightening up any way you can is recommended.
  • The road south from Tok after crossing the border of Canada is smooth for awhile, but it’s only a tease.
• In British Columbia you are traveling on logging roads.

• If you are caught driving more than 40 kph (25 mph) over the speed limit, the BC authorities can impound your car for 7 days.
• The most challenging road for us was from Dawson City, Yukon, to the Alaska border on The Top of The World Highway. It was a rough dirt road, and rain and thick fog compounded the risk to the point of zero visibility. We slid in the mud several times. There are no roadside guard rails or pullouts.
• If it had been a clear day, our experience on The Top of The World Highway would have been entirely different. We hear the views are spectacular. If we had listened to our instincts, and not been so eager to enter Alaska, we would have stayed in Dawson City, having a blast, until the weather cleared a day or so later.

• Some of the worst roads as of the Summer of 2022
  • Between Tok, Alaska and Destruction Bay, Yukon, due to snow heaves and large potholes.
  • Between Dawson City, Yukon and Chicken, Alaska, due to rain, dense fog and sliding mud.
  • Between Chicken, Alaska and Tok, Alaska, due to snow heaves and large potholes.
  • East of Muncho Lake, British Columbia, due to major road construction.
  • Klondike Highway between Whitehorse, Yukon and Pelly Crossing, Yukon due to fires near the road.

• Some of the most beautiful scenery roads for us
  • The “Sea to Sky Highway” between Vancouver, BC and Whistler, BC
  • Cassiar Highway between Watson Lake, YT and Kitwanga, BC 
  • The Glenn Highway between Glennallen, AK and Anchorage, AK
  • The Richardson Highway between Valdez, AK and Glennallen, AK
  • Seward Highway between Anchorage, AK and Seward, AK
  • Much, but not all, of the Alaska Highway (AlCan)

Weather

• Historically, August is the rainiest month in Alaska, and 2022 holds the record for the wettest in the past 40 years. Great timing, huh? But the good news is that all that rain relieved the fire season. Clouds are better than smoke.
• It rained 75% of the days we were in Alaska.
• Bring a Weather Radio because you might not have cell service.
• If you do have internet connectivity, AccuWeather is a good weather App.
• If you like physical exercise (like we do) be mentally prepared for frequent interruptions to your fitness plans. It’s a challenge to stay in condition with constant cold, wind, and rain.

Camping

• Apparently, if a rest area or pull-off is not posted, “No overnight camping,” then it is acceptable to stay the night.
• We used Harvest Hosts, AllStays and FreeCampsites.net. These free one-night stops were our favorites.
• To research campgrounds, we used the campground review websites on our blog post “RVer’s Bag ‘o Tricks.”
• With the exception of Denali National Park and Seward, very few of the developed campgrounds were ever full. Even on weekends many campgrounds were well below capacity.
• We prefer government campgrounds (national, state, county and city) to privately owned parks. There were a few exceptions (like Tundra RV Park in Tok) but public parks offer more privacy with natural barriers between sites, and they connect to hikes and wilderness areas. Most pubic parks are dry camping, but dependency on hook-ups would have diminished the experience we came for.
• In each of our blog posts in this series (see list below), we share either a link to our campgrounds, or the GPS coordinates of a gravel pullout or rest area where we stayed.

Cash – Currency

• We waited until we arrived to Victoria to exchange U.S. currency for Canadian dollars at an ATM. It was too much hassle to exchange in the States.
• The exchange rate was heavily in favor of US dollars for Canadian dollars.
• In Canada, Costco only accepts Mastercard or a Costco brand Visa card.
• Some provincial campgrounds in Canada accept only cash or checks.
• We didn’t need a lot of cash since most businesses accept credit cards. $300 in Canadian for emergencies was sufficient.

Clothing

• Bring clothes for extremely warm weather, and extremely cold weather, and for everything in-between. You can’t know what you’re going to get until you get there. Locals claimed that we missed the warmest May-June they’d ever had – and we were freezing in an interminable B.C. cold-front! Go figure.
• Canada is a great place to gear-up for cold. We took advantage of the favorable exchange rate in Whistler where we acquired top-notch essential wool underwear.
• In cold weather, plan to wear four layers and carry gear to pack them away so you can peel off layers as the day warms.
  • We each wore a wool base layer under a shirt and pants. Over the shirt we wore an insulated down vest under an insulated down jacket.

Food

• Don’t expect the groceries you’re used to.
• It helps to have an assortment of meals you can make with limited ingredients. You’re in Ramen country now 🍜
• Budget more for groceries and restaurants than you originally planned.
• When you cross the border, stock up on pantry foods and water. Eating is a fun activity when you’re stuck somewhere due to road closures or extreme weather conditions, and having a hot meal or cocoa at a viewpoint makes it more memorable.
• If there’s a guy on the side of the road selling jerky or smoked fish, buy some.

Wildlife

• British Columbia, Yukon, Northwest Territories and Alaska are all filled with wildlife. We saw more wildlife in Northwest Territories than all of them together.
• Most of our sightings were unplanned road-side encounters.
• Once we adjusted our eyes to look closer and notice movement in the trees we began to see more individuals browsing the roadsides.
• Pull over to view animals from a safe distance. Keep in mind that stopping can put you and the animal at risk.
• If you must see a certain animal, you might choose to go to one of the farms where rescued individuals are pastured and/or cultivated.
• Do not approach wildlife. Please trust us on this: you will have a better experience if you are inside your vehicle while the engine is running as you take photos and videos from the window with your handy compact, camera with a powerful zoom – and, it just may be a lifesaver.
• Below are some of our favorite sightings taken with our compact, idiot-proof Sony RX100 VII camera.   

Bugs

• Giant blood-sucking mosquitoes which look like large skinny moths are only a problem when it’s warm. Cool weather drives them away. So, it’s a love-hate relationship with the weather.
• We depended on five products: Bug Repellent, Bug Swatter, Bug Head Net, Bed Net, and Bug Repellent Gizmo.

Fuel

• While there are gas stations almost everywhere, we never went below half a tank. We took advantage of all opportunities to refill, including our diesel, propane and generator gas.
• If Milepost indicated there were limited services ahead, we called to make sure the station was open and had diesel because sometimes they run out of diesel in the middle of the day.
• We did not carry a spare can of diesel. Planning and research was a better solution than carrying a dangerous can of gas.
• Fuel (Gas, propane and diesel) in Canada and Alaska is more expensive than the lower 48 states. Especially in remote areas.
• Be aware that in Canada, diesel is sold with yellow on the handle, not green handles like the States.
• In Canada you’ll need to convert liters to gallons to estimate your gas mileage and cost per gallon. There are 3.785 liters per gallon. While we were traveling, the conversion rate was $.78 Canadian to $1.00 US Dollars.
• If you’re driving a diesel truck that requires DEF, bear in mind that DEF is about twice as expensive than it is in the lower 48. Ideally, we should have brought five 2 ½ gallon bottles, if we had enough room to store them 🤪
• Diesel cost us $5,700 for the 12,000 miles from San Diego to Alaska and back to the lower states, averaging 48¢ per mile.

Dump Stations and Potable Water

• Don’t rely on your expectation that there will be a dump station, or potable water at your next destination. If you see an open dump station or a potable water source, go for it, or you may regret the lost opportunity.
• Muncho Lake Resort was flooded when we arrived, so the dump stations – there and for more than a hundred miles around – were under a government shut down. Ugh. For 3-days we were stuck with black and gray tanks that were almost full.
• Our blog post RVer’s Bag ‘o Tricks has many useful resources for finding dump stations.

Pets

• Traveling with your pet is a joy, but taking Fido presents several limitations.
  • The two of us can’t go on no-pet outings together such as: an 11-hour bus tour of Denali National Park; a flight-seeing tour of Knik Glacier; or take a 9-hour boat ride in Valdez Harbor; or take The Alaska Marine Highway System home, saving a week of driving (Strict rules for quartering your pet in your rig require leaving your pet alone for 8-hours per day. We think that would be abusive to many pets and a cruel way to treat our 15-year old travel companion). Rather than go alone, we usually opt out of the experience. But, due to overcast weather conditions we might have opted out anyway because tickets must be purchased in advance and are not refundable if conditions are less than ideal for viewing.
• We often leave Pico de Gallo at home (i.e. “in the trailer”) – but only if it’s a cool day, or we have electricity to run the air-conditioner on a hot day. To this purpose, we installed a wifi thermostat so we can monitor the temperature inside the Airstream when we’re away – but Pico’s bladder keeps us on a 5-hour leash, and we think that’s a champion feat for a 15-year old chihuahua.
• We were warned about birds of prey snatching small dogs, so we kept Pico on a short leash. We’re used to keeping him close because even domestic dogs mistake Pico for prey. We’ve heard it a thousand times, “OMG he never does that!” when snapping jaws lunge in Pico’s direction. Sure enough, bald eagles stalked us constantly waiting for a moment of opportunity, to consume this new imported delicacy.
• When crossing an international border, the authorities may want to see your dogs’ rabies paperwork. It is not required for cats, and maybe that’s why we saw so many motorhome windshields with snoozing cats.
• A Pet Health Certificate is not required for entry back to the lower 48.
• The State of Alaska requires a pet health certificate dated within 30 days of entering Alaska.
  • The Border is staffed by Federal Agents, not Alaska State agents, and Federal agents will not ask to see a current pet health certificate.
  • We carry a pet health certificate from our veterinarian, but not one dated within 30 days of entering Alaska. No one ever asked to see it.

Internet Connectivity

• Cell service is very spotty in remote areas – and almost every place we wanted to see was quite remote.
• The Cassiar Highway has, basically, no-service.
• Don’t expect any private campground claiming to have WiFi to actually have functional service.
• We use RV Life Trip Wizard to plan our trip, and since nonexistent internet connectivity is the norm, we often had to rely on Milepost (a bound book) as our only source of information.
• There is a lot of chatter about Starlink satellite internet service. We did not have that service on our trip.
• We had Verizon and, in Canada, we were allowed ½ gigabyte per day, per device, at no additional cost.

Hiking

• With all the nature walks and hiking opportunities, we suggest you bring your hiking poles, day pack, bear spray, plenty of water, and a proactive mosquito net.

Cycling

• We highly recommend taking your bikes. Our folding Dolphin eBikes gave us access to many Happy Trails as we journeyed the Pacific coast to Alaska.

Kayaking

• From San Diego to Alaska and back, wide open rivers, lakes and seas beaconed our inflatable kayaks to go sightseeing from the water.

Damage

• We experienced some minimal damage – which is almost impossible to avoid when RVing to Alaska.
  • The fresh water tank cracked and leaked; the air conditioner overheated and died; we bent an Airstream aluminum panel; our main door came loose on the hinges; we broke an awning clamp; and, our water pump malfunctioned. But, we returned with our original windshield, tires, axles and suspension. Many overlanders are not so lucky.
• On the way home we stopped by Vinnie’s Northbay Airstream Repair in Sacramento, California where Vinnie, Clayson and the team attended to the repairs. Our advice is to make reservations with your technician before and after going to Alaska.

Dangers

• Alaska can be a very dangerous place.
• In early July – a few days after we crossed the river (photo below) – the highway washed out.

• The notorious Mudflats near Turnagain Arm, which we viewed while riding our bikes, kills people who get stuck in the mud and drown.

• This summer, melting glacier ice caused havoc.

• Alaska is a place of extremes, and that includes the weather anomalies which 2022 is on record as one of the most severe. Lucky us.
  • High winds, record rain and snow, avalanches, landslides, floods, and fires, all led to nearly a dozen disaster declarations in Alaska during Summer 2022.

• Here is an article about the fire season, which is expected every summer.

• Attacks by wildlife such as bears, moose and other wild animals are not uncommon.

• Wildlife encounters on the road are a sure thing. They will either be standing there grazing or waiting to cross, or just standing in the road, or jumping in front of your vehicle. We had all of those experiences several times. Always be on the lookout.

• One of the most dangerous (and scenic) roads in the world is The James Dalton Highway. We, sadly, passed on the opportunity. If we were younger and/or the weather hadn’t been so wet we may have made a different decision.
• The Seward Highway, between Anchorage and Seward, is one of the most dangerous (and beautiful) roads in the United States and we took the risk and loved it. These are decisions you make based on instinct.

Crossing the Border into Canada

• We had to fill out our travel plans and arrival date using ArriveCan on our computer or smart phone.
  • As of late 2022, our research shows ArriveCan is no longer needed or accepted for crossing the border by land.
• While a passport is highly recommended, you will need acceptable identification to cross into Canada. This requirement can change, so be proactive and check out the latest rules at the Canadian Government’s travel website. 
• US Citizens with DUIs, Driving Under the Influence, and certain other convictions may be denied entry into Canada.
• You may experience a 3-5 minute question and answer session, or a one hour inspection of your rig.
  • It appears random to us, but other factors may play a role in your encounter.
  • We have experienced both extremes – the short wave through, and an hour-long inspection.
• Check out this list of forbidden items.
  • The list of contraband is updated and changed often, so check it just before you plan to enter Canada.
• Carrying bear spray into Canada is legal if the container is bigger than 9 ounces, and the label states USDA repellent registration. We declared it and showed it to the border agent with no problems, no delay.
• Do not attempt to bring CBD (or any illicit drugs) across the border. It is illegal and the consequences may be dire.
• The border agent will want to see your dogs rabies paperwork.

Crossing the Border into the United States

• Entering into the United States does not require prior notification.
• While a passport is highly recommended, you have a few other options for a valid identification, check out the latest at the US Government’s travel website.
• You may experience a 3-5 minute question and answer session or a thorough inspection of your rig with a significant delay.
  • It appears random to us, but other factors may play a role in your encounter.
  • On the extreme, we have been asked a few friendly questions before a wave-through, and we’ve experienced a 30-minute, nerve-wracking interrogation followed with a welcome to the USA.
• Check out this list of forbidden items to bring across the border.
  • This list is updated and changes often, so check it right before you plan to enter the United States.
  • The civil penalty for failing to declare agricultural items at U.S. ports of entry will cost first time offenders $300 per item.
  • To avoid receiving a penalty, you should declare all agricultural items and present the list, in writing, to Customs and Border Protection for inspection so that an agriculture specialist can determine if it is admissible.
  • Over the years we’ve learned that it’s just easier to cross into the United States without any fruit, veg, eggs or meat.
• Do not try to bring CBD (or any illicit drugs) over the border. It is illegal.
• We have already mentioned this above under “Pets,” but thought it important to include it here.
  • They may want to see your dog’s rabies paperwork, but we have never been asked for it.
  • The State of Alaska requires a pet health certificate dated within 30 days of entering Alaska.
  • The Border is staffed by Federal Agents, not Alaska State agents, and Federal agents will not ask to see a current pet health certificate.
  • We had a pet health certificate from our veterinarian, but not one obtained within 30 days of entering Alaska. No one ever asked to see it.

General Observations

• Unless a cruise ship is in town, you will not experience crowds in Alaska. Sometimes we went days without seeing anyone. If you want to be around people then Anchorage or Fairbanks is a good bet.
• Alaska is one of the few places in the world where there is no schedule, so practice your powers of spontaneity and make last-minute decisions which will probably inspire your best experiences and memories.

Serendipity

• Antlers or horns?
  • Deer, caribou (reindeer), elk and moose have antlers, not horns
  • Cows, sheep, goats and buffalo have horns.
  • Antlers shed every year and grow back, horns do not.
  • You don’t want to run into either one. 😉

What would we have done differently?

• Get into Alaska faster. In hindsight, we should have entered Alaska sooner and taken our time in Yukon and B.C. while on the way south – but next year conditions may be flipped. In May and June 2022, the weather was unusually fair and sunny in Fairbanks and Anchorage while it was unusually cold, windy and wet in Victoria. We advise having more than one plan depending on weather and how the melt is progressing in the passes.
• Except for a few tourist hot spots like Denali National Park and Seward, we didn’t need to make reservations in British Columbia, Yukon, Northwest Territory and Alaska. Over-planning hindered our spontaneity somewhat.
• We were completely unprepared for the mosquitoes. We wish we had purchased our bug gear before heading north.
• We were stunned with the beauty of British Columbia and Yukon. We should have planned more time in those two Canadian provinces.

Final Thoughts

• Traveling to Alaska by land was a once-in-a-lifetime experience for us. We heard that it changes people and we returned more grateful for our home-planet and more invested in protecting wildlife and habitat.
• There is a reason only 5% of tourists travel by land to Alaska and 95% go to Alaska by airplane or ocean cruise ships. We’re fortunate to be part of the few who explored the interior and dipped our toes into the Great North.
• Was it easy? No!
• Was it worth it? Absolutely!
• Do we regret the experience? Not at all!
• Will we do it again? Yes, when Airstreams fly!

If you have ever driven to Alaska, please share your experience in the comment section below. Or if you have any comments or questions, please ask.

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You can see our exact route on this map.

*photos in this post (unless otherwise noted) were taken and copyrighted by Living In Beauty.

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